My old one was, previous owner must've put in a coiled one as well.

You don't have to do all that. Most I've done was remove my intake and fuse box.
Then just giving tools purposes they weren't made for. I've done it this way twice.
Either way, no matter how you do it, it's a PITA.

 

i bought about 50 of those coiled pins cause i kept bending the ones from autozone

 

The way I got the stuck pin out was by taking a taper pin and tapping it in there. I had to remove the rear mount to get enough space to tap but I just used a really heavy and thin flat piece of cast iron I had in my garage. It tapped in far enough that I could tap the coiled pin in.

After that, I didn't have enough room or leverage to get it all the way in. I moved the fork (into what was said 5th gear) so the pin was facing the front of the car, and used a screw driver as a lever and pushed forward on it while using the mount as a fulcrum. It pushed the pin in no problem, and pushed the broken piece out the other side.

 

The one I initially changed was a coilded pin. I bought the car with 8000 miles on it and never changed it before then. I wonder who put that in, if its not stock?

 

Great write up, saved me a lot of time trouble shooting. Thanks

 

If anyone is interested in an alloy steel (5,900# break strength) or titanium (5,500# break strength) pin, I just found some for one of my racers with a 2008 SS/TC.

 

Post up details.. Currently using the McMasters, which are rated at 4,500#.

 

This is exactly the problem I am having. I'll be taking this project on when I get home. Great write up, even if it is almost 5 years old!

 

I just completed this earlier this morning. Great write up on showing exactly what to remove. On the other hand, I hope people dont run into what i did. Pin broke in like 4 pieces it was a pita to get all of it out. But still not that bad at all. Thank You OP


didnt have to remove any trans mount but did remove the cable bracket

 

Doing this didn't fix my problem. I'm at a standstill now. Could the hole in the piece under the linkage be wallowed out so the pin moves back and forth when I shift still causing play in the shifter?

 

You're still going to have amounts of lay in the shifter after changing the roll pin with the stock shifter.

 

your cable clamps may be a problem in the shift assembly; this is what a cable clamp looks like

If you have broken the roll pins, its a good bet the cable clamps have suffered also. Good luck, hope it turns out alright.

 

No issues, have a stainless bolt thru mine

 

I was reading this thread, and the thought of a roll pin going out in the middle of norwhere makes me kind of nervous about it. I'd rather take and do preventative maintenance before something does happen. What are some of the signs of a worn or broken roll pin?

 

I have an 06 LT and the shifter is hard to put in gears (very very stiff on all of them). Would that be the roll pin or something else?

 

Im on about my 5th autozone special pin. I need to find something more durable..

 

email gloria@powellraceparts.com we have some race hardened ones...

 

if this doesnt fix your problem check your clutch rod they bend under really aggressive driving

 

Just broke Pin number 5!!! I need to put a brick behind 2nd gear!

 

anyone ever considered to ream the hole and apply a solid pin?

 

I have never seen a bent clutch rod; solid pins would be fine- but how do you hold it in? Most folks who have multiple roll pin failures are either using a soft household roll pin, or seriously need a driver mod.

 

nice writeup

 

Ok guys I am having the same issues. I have all gears it seams as thou 1 3 5 are a much longer throw and 2 4 R I almost don't have enough to get them plus when downshift 3-2 it pops out the first time. I had catastrophic failure of this pin at around 400000. Now with 122000 it all feels sloppy and 2nd is a pita. I am brand new on the net here but not to the balt. I cannot believe all this slop is from a little pin. When in gear the stick will move over an inch before disengaging gears

I have the MU3 tranny.

I crawled underneath and the roll pin is sticking out one side by about 3/8"


Has anyone tried to use a small c-clamp to get the new pin in?

 

you need a good roll pin i have a few hardened ones left. its a PITA.
jack car, remove driver side wheel. drop engine mount down by releasing the bolts under the fuse box.
get a snap on 3/16 roll pin tool and a very short 4 or 5 lb hammer.
remove as much stuff as you need to get to it, the shifter cable tree will help
remove replace. ez.
not

good luck

ps gelladuga said he did his removing the fuse box. that may be easier, not removing the fuse box thats a pain, but its all an issue how to get a good swing with the hammer to drive the pin out/in.
every trans we rebuild goes out with new pins lol

 

the shaft is hardened steel wont be reaming that sucker easily at all. the shift bobbin is easy. shaft is totally not.