You can try looking at your roll pins. But when your roll pin breaks it usually locks you into ONE gear. Whichever gear the shifter was in when the pin broke. More than likely if you are missing all the odd gears, you broke something internal.

 

any idea what broke then if 2nd 4th and reverse disappeared ?


When I first test drive this car it had 200km.. anyways.. the sales guy was just slamming the gears and driving the car harder than I have since ive had it.

Long story short, it transferred around a few dealerships and when I finally bought it there was 800km on it, the transmission has felt clunky since I bought it


going from first to second even if I tried my hardest id hear a second clunk or shutter when shifting, it only liked shifting "smooth" when I was driving fast.


anyways I guess im getting a whole new transmission, possibly one a lot better than my old one I hope

 

Sounds like it could be the pivot pin in the shifting fork, but not sure.

 

Holy abuse...

 

Gonna have a brand new one to baby though

 

okay so i've got the fuse box completely removed. the arm with the weight is the one with the broken pin. but how in the HELL did you get that punch in there!?! there is no room what so ever. the top trans mount is directly in the way.

 

its on the other side(engine bay side). look up from under the trans up towards the wheel well

 

Question: How do you keep it from breaking again and again and again.... I have used roll pins from o'reilly, fastenal, and GM... In 4 months, I have broken 4...

 

dont shift so hard....by the way, I am in double digits replacing this pin... So far to the point that the hole has worn out to almost the next size up....

 

I have been granny shifting (hell, usually do anyway). If the stock pin can hold up to 70k miles of track and racing, why can't a replacement hold up from daily driving.

 

Well I shattered another roll pin. I replaced it with a spring roll pin this time so we will see how it holds up. I think it will work better it has a little more metal to it. I believe that the spring roll pin is what comes In them stock from the factory.

 

I sheared my pin 2 weeks ago...the dealer replaced the pin and my shift linkage. I got my car back and 3 hours later the pin sheared again.

 

I understand how this can break the first time wear and tear as a 'weak link' of the drive train but how are we breaking it so soon after? I know you are not the only one, is there something wrong with the replacement parts from GM or the install? I just don't want to experience this if I have to replace my pin and/or shift linkage.

 

My car has 47K on it and I haven't had a pin break yet

For the people who have had these pins break easily/frequently, are you shifting aggressively? I baby my shifter into gear, so maybe thats why I haven't had this problem. Also, do you have any solid mounts? Maybe engine movement has something to do with these pins wearing out quickly.

I've seen some debate on whether these pins are designed to be a weak link to save the transmission, and I was wondering if it was possible that they were designed as a weak link to save the shift linkage instead. Like to prevent the shifter rods from bending.

 

Is this write up just for sc cobalts, for i have a tc cobalt and my shifter feels a little loose.

 

It's a very tight fit, but it's possible. Pull up on the arm a little and it will help.

 

I broke 3, after that I went to a Grade 8 aircraft bolt that was just long enough to get a bolt on the other side. Been good ever since.

 

It's for my 06 supercharged balt, but it should be the same for all balts.

 

Very nice write up. This for sure works on the SS/TC the first time this happened I took it to the dealership and they covered it under warranty and told me I shouldn't abuse it, and the probably wouldn't fix it again under warranty. Thank you so much. Got it fixed just in time to play around for a bit before I deploy.



But I do have one question I may have for got to hook something back up but I'm throwing four different codes (P0449,P0645,P2261, and P0481) after doing this. Then I drove about 30 miles and my instrument panel came up saying ENG PRW REDUCED. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

my suggestion would be to go back over your fuse box under the hood and make sure everything is plugged up and securely mounted.

 

Hey man thanks a million. I guess I didn't have the bolts tight enough that go through the fusr panel to the wiring harness. Got it runnung like a champ. Thanks again. Wouldn't know what to do without you all.

 

This thread saved my @SS! Figured I would try the 30 cent fix before I have it taken in to have it looked at (because GM thought it was internal) and found that mine had shattered in 2 spots when I finally lost all gears. Thanks for the write up!

 

I cannot get mine out for the life of me, how much movement is "too much movement" in the shifter? I can move it around in a little circle in each gear. Is that a sign of it? I have a spare one ready to go in and it all apart but can't get the thing out.

I'm going to take a break and try again tommorow when it isn't -20C in my garage but I could go for some ideas, I've tried whats been posted.

Joel

 

im confused why are we removing the wheel again?

 

I too have been banging it for 4 hours, and have tried to remove the top trans mount. i cant get that damn cylinder out of the frame. PLEASE HELP.