Drivetrain: How to: Hurst short throw shifter
So apparently its pretty common for the set screw to come loose, so I'll just leave this here in case anybody wants to replace theirs with a fresh one for whatever reason:
Set screw size: 1/4-20 x 3/8. 3mm hex key.
I just re-did mine. I used plasitc thread locker since the black ball is plastic, and apparently regular blue loc-tite didn't work out. Also put a dab of red thread locker on the tip. We'll see how that holds. I'm letting the stuff cure for a full 24 hours just to be sure. For now I have an extremely short shifter.

If the thread locker doesnt work out, I may try one of these:

Nylon patch has a prevailing torque effect, much like our header nuts. Resists vibration. Seems to be a good idea if anybody wants to give it a try.
Set screw size: 1/4-20 x 3/8. 3mm hex key.
I just re-did mine. I used plasitc thread locker since the black ball is plastic, and apparently regular blue loc-tite didn't work out. Also put a dab of red thread locker on the tip. We'll see how that holds. I'm letting the stuff cure for a full 24 hours just to be sure. For now I have an extremely short shifter.

If the thread locker doesnt work out, I may try one of these:
Nylon patch has a prevailing torque effect, much like our header nuts. Resists vibration. Seems to be a good idea if anybody wants to give it a try.
So apparently its pretty common for the set screw to come loose, so I'll just leave this here in case anybody wants to replace theirs with a fresh one for whatever reason:
Set screw size: 1/4-20 x 3/8. 3mm hex key.
I just re-did mine. I used plasitc thread locker since the black ball is plastic, and apparently regular blue loc-tite didn't work out. Also put a dab of red thread locker on the tip. We'll see how that holds. I'm letting the stuff cure for a full 24 hours just to be sure. For now I have an extremely short shifter.

If the thread locker doesnt work out, I may try one of these:

Nylon patch has a prevailing torque effect, much like our header nuts. Resists vibration. Seems to be a good idea if anybody wants to give it a try.
Set screw size: 1/4-20 x 3/8. 3mm hex key.
I just re-did mine. I used plasitc thread locker since the black ball is plastic, and apparently regular blue loc-tite didn't work out. Also put a dab of red thread locker on the tip. We'll see how that holds. I'm letting the stuff cure for a full 24 hours just to be sure. For now I have an extremely short shifter.

If the thread locker doesnt work out, I may try one of these:
Nylon patch has a prevailing torque effect, much like our header nuts. Resists vibration. Seems to be a good idea if anybody wants to give it a try.
How is it that short???
So apparently its pretty common for the set screw to come loose, so I'll just leave this here in case anybody wants to replace theirs with a fresh one for whatever reason:
Set screw size: 1/4-20 x 3/8. 3mm hex key.
I just re-did mine. I used plasitc thread locker since the black ball is plastic, and apparently regular blue loc-tite didn't work out. Also put a dab of red thread locker on the tip. We'll see how that holds. I'm letting the stuff cure for a full 24 hours just to be sure. For now I have an extremely short shifter.

If the thread locker doesnt work out, I may try one of these:

Nylon patch has a prevailing torque effect, much like our header nuts. Resists vibration. Seems to be a good idea if anybody wants to give it a try.
Set screw size: 1/4-20 x 3/8. 3mm hex key.
I just re-did mine. I used plasitc thread locker since the black ball is plastic, and apparently regular blue loc-tite didn't work out. Also put a dab of red thread locker on the tip. We'll see how that holds. I'm letting the stuff cure for a full 24 hours just to be sure. For now I have an extremely short shifter.

If the thread locker doesnt work out, I may try one of these:
Nylon patch has a prevailing torque effect, much like our header nuts. Resists vibration. Seems to be a good idea if anybody wants to give it a try.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/twm-...-knobs-231714/
Our shifter itself is proved to be the best option for the Cobalt and the Cobalt SS. The assembly quality is light-years compared to the Hurst shifter. Our dedicated sales reps are always available to guide you through the install if you need it too!
Every kit comes with a detailed instruction manual and is also available through our website:
Cobalt SS Short Shifter
SPECIAL PROMOTION FOR THIS WEEK!
Get your orders in this week and use the PROMO CODE: TWM6991
This is 10% OFF any of our products!
Have a great day everyone and feel free to call us toll free at 1-877-655-0540 or e-mail us at sales@twmperformance.com
John
Team TWM Performance
So just to let anyone who buys one now, that Hurst upgraded their set screw.
As for the install, Hurst gave a great install packet. Only issue I ran into was when I removed the stocker, the little cube like thing with the groves for the threads fell out. Had no idea it was even used because it fell under the whole assembly.
Once I got that on, it was cake. Maybe 20 minutes to install, less if I knew that piece fell out.
Reverse lock works fine, and has a great feel. Not as nice as a TWM but I am completely satisfied.
As for the install, Hurst gave a great install packet. Only issue I ran into was when I removed the stocker, the little cube like thing with the groves for the threads fell out. Had no idea it was even used because it fell under the whole assembly.
Once I got that on, it was cake. Maybe 20 minutes to install, less if I knew that piece fell out.
Reverse lock works fine, and has a great feel. Not as nice as a TWM but I am completely satisfied.
Last edited by JoshuaVnyrd1817; Nov 20, 2010 at 10:13 AM.
I'm missing the hurst shift knob. Somone here willing to sell this/???!! They rob me the knob
. Please pm me if you got it or know where I could buy it. Already call Hurst and they are not selling the shift knob separately.
Yep it's decently bigger than the previous model. Much more sturdy.
Good luck buying just the knob. I know someone else tried to and couldn't. Try to find another one that has the same thread pattern.
Good luck buying just the knob. I know someone else tried to and couldn't. Try to find another one that has the same thread pattern.
That is the kind of problem we don't see happening with people using the TWM short shifter! We include, in each kit, free of charge, an ATIS aluminum shift knob that received very good reviews:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/twm-...-knobs-231714/
Our shifter itself is proved to be the best option for the Cobalt and the Cobalt SS. The assembly quality is light-years compared to the Hurst shifter. Our dedicated sales reps are always available to guide you through the install if you need it too!
Every kit comes with a detailed instruction manual and is also available through our website:
Cobalt SS Short Shifter
SPECIAL PROMOTION FOR THIS WEEK
Get your orders in this week and use the PROMO CODE: TWM6991
This is 10% OFF any of our products!
Have a great day everyone and feel free to call us toll free at 1-877-655-0540 or e-mail us at sales@twmperformance.com
John
Team TWM Performance
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/twm-...-knobs-231714/
Our shifter itself is proved to be the best option for the Cobalt and the Cobalt SS. The assembly quality is light-years compared to the Hurst shifter. Our dedicated sales reps are always available to guide you through the install if you need it too!
Every kit comes with a detailed instruction manual and is also available through our website:
Cobalt SS Short Shifter
SPECIAL PROMOTION FOR THIS WEEK
Get your orders in this week and use the PROMO CODE: TWM6991
This is 10% OFF any of our products!
Have a great day everyone and feel free to call us toll free at 1-877-655-0540 or e-mail us at sales@twmperformance.com
John
Team TWM Performance
Your first time will be. I didn't realize that there were plastic pieces in the ends that held the threads from moving and lost one.
As long as you never fully open the ends/connectors up your'll be fine. Also mark how far your cables go into the ends before you take the stock shifter out.
As long as you never fully open the ends/connectors up your'll be fine. Also mark how far your cables go into the ends before you take the stock shifter out.
Take the lower cable off the ball of the stock shifter (it is mounted to the side) instead of disconnecting them at the lock. When you are ready to install the hurst, put a piece of wood, large handle screwdriver, etc below the ball socket of the shift cable. Push the hurst shifter into the ball (ball is at the very bottom of the shifter and not sideways like the stock unit), then remove the item from under the cable. The install is easier than removing the stock shifter.
Last edited by shadowfaxss; Dec 14, 2010 at 10:37 PM.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/appe...-dinoc-237139/
2010 ss/tc
Does Hurst part number 3914040 Price: $168.99 QUICK/STICK SHIFTER, work on the 2010 SS/TC? Anybody with a TC have one installed?
Is it:
Good?
Bad?
Is it:
Good?
Bad?
Does Hurst part number 3914040 Price: $168.99 QUICK/STICK SHIFTER, work on the 2010 SS/TC? Anybody with a TC have one installed?
Is it:
Good?
Bad?
Is it:
Good?
Bad?
so apparently its pretty common for the set screw to come loose, so i'll just leave this here in case anybody wants to replace theirs with a fresh one for whatever reason:
set screw size: 1/4-20 x 3/8. 3mm hex key.
I just re-did mine. I used plasitc thread locker since the black ball is plastic, and apparently regular blue loc-tite didn't work out. Also put a dab of red thread locker on the tip. We'll see how that holds. I'm letting the stuff cure for a full 24 hours just to be sure. For now i have an extremely short shifter.

if the thread locker doesnt work out, i may try one of these:

nylon patch has a prevailing torque effect, much like our header nuts. Resists vibration. Seems to be a good idea if anybody wants to give it a try.
set screw size: 1/4-20 x 3/8. 3mm hex key.
I just re-did mine. I used plasitc thread locker since the black ball is plastic, and apparently regular blue loc-tite didn't work out. Also put a dab of red thread locker on the tip. We'll see how that holds. I'm letting the stuff cure for a full 24 hours just to be sure. For now i have an extremely short shifter.

if the thread locker doesnt work out, i may try one of these:
nylon patch has a prevailing torque effect, much like our header nuts. Resists vibration. Seems to be a good idea if anybody wants to give it a try.
as well as the lock tite. What is the lock tite supposed to do?? My whole hurst shifter wont stop spinning cant get it in place. Noob replying here.
P.s. Is the snap clip supposed to keep the shifter in place???
The C-clip is to keep the ball from sliding off the shaft. If your shifter is just spinning freely then the set screw has backed out.
Loc-tite is supposed to keep said set screw from backing out due to vibration. Doesnt seem to work though..
I thought about doing the set screw with the nylon patch, but decided to just drill and tap a hole into the shaft. The set screw is now screwed halfway into the shaft and halfway into the ball. Unfortunately I drilled the hole just a bit crooked, but luckily this ended up helping since that screw is in there for good now, even without loc-tite. lol
The shifter now has zero rotation and feels very solid.
Loc-tite is supposed to keep said set screw from backing out due to vibration. Doesnt seem to work though..
I thought about doing the set screw with the nylon patch, but decided to just drill and tap a hole into the shaft. The set screw is now screwed halfway into the shaft and halfway into the ball. Unfortunately I drilled the hole just a bit crooked, but luckily this ended up helping since that screw is in there for good now, even without loc-tite. lol
The shifter now has zero rotation and feels very solid.
Mine is still good to go to this day. Have not had an issue since drilling a larger hole, tapping, and installing a set screw that actually places a good portion of the flat on the shaft.


