Alright so I forgot to take a picture of the tools needed but basically you need:
a drill with metal cutting bits in various sized up to 7/16" (I would recommend one size larger as well 25/64")
motor oil (to lubricate your drill bits so they dont break and/or start fires)
a flat blade screwdriver
a small sharp blade (I used a leatherman)

So first you get a package from Powell Motorsports


Open it to find these pieces inside


I went out and bought some 2" grade-5 bolts because the supplied 1" bolts would require bumper facia modification to make the plate fit thru the bumper


Next you need a spacer to pull the hook away from the bumper, I used a 5/8" nut


Here's the hardware assembled


Pull the grill off the passenger side of the bumper, it takes a little persuasion from a screw driver


Mock up where you want it


Mark it, I used a map marker from work but a generic sharpie would work too


Drill em out, start small I do mean small. I started at 1/16" and worked up to 25/64", using about every 3rd bit. Go slow, you should have it going fast enough that it wont get stuck but no faster. I bent/broke a drill bit going too fast. Also dip your bits into a small amount of motor oil every so often to keep them from heating up as quickly.

Once you get done drilling it'll look like this


Now drop your bolts in


Then one at a time put your spacers in on top of the mount


Tighten everything up


Now take your grill and place it infront of the mount and figure out the location of the hole you need to cut


I marked mine with the same marker and cut it with my leatherman, dont use a dremel as it just frays the plastic and doesnt get clean cuts. Plus this stuff is soft plastic.



Slip it back over your base plate and clip it in


Insert the supplied grade-8 bolt with anti-seize


And thats it


I'd like to thank John at Powell Motorsports for his exceptional customer service and well made product.

EDIT: I have been told that the washers are supposed to go on the topside up next to the bolt head. I will be fixing that today.

 

Great write up

 

is this tow hook for looks only or function?

 

Thanks
Function is my primary motivator for getting these, we dont have any good tow points that wont bend/break the body panels. I'll be installing the front one in the near future.

Also, Powell Motorsports is making a spacer as well so you dont have to buy the nuts.

 

Those hinges look flimsy as hell... Your going to pull a 2000lb car out of a ditch with one of those? Good luck lmao

 

Trust me, those won't break.

 

No, I plan on pulling a 3120lb car with it. Hell I've got a tow strap I just might test this one out.

 

They would be convienant.

 

id be worried that resting on the rear lip would take the paint off after rubbing for a while

 

Good write up. I may need to consider getting a set of these for this year.

 

I'm working on figuring out a solution to that problem.

So long as the welds are good (which they are) im good, I refer you to the bolt chart
http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts..._strength.html
The 3 at the base are grade5 7/16" and the hinge is a grade8 1/4".
Pretty sure the bumper will permanently deform before this thing does

 

chrome moly tube tig welded to steel plate? it will risk bending bumper beam before it pulls off, but in an ideal world would rather not bend bumper beam if the car is in a gravel trap. So my guess it will not break at the tube.I got maybe 30 cars running around with bolt on tow hooks mostly corvettes, never broke one...and a number have visited the gravel trap...

cap screw 3/8 actually and all cap screws are grade 8. Northvibe and Rallyracer have grade 8 hex head 3/8 pivot bolts.

 

crazy...I was just in the garage...car jacked up off the ground and was thinking about installing these / making an how-to

 

rallyracer do the front one!!!!!!!!

 

these hooks hardly move around, there not lose. But I guess if it make yourself feel better you could always by some of that sticky foam and put it on the back side.

 

Well just follow this for the rear one, I think for the front I'm going to have to take off the bumper cover though to drill the holes.
Ah finally the man himself speaks. Thank you again John

 

the plan ifyou dont space the tow hook down, is to fit flush to bumper bar, and the hook folds down in the slot and fits in. The OP wanted to space it down. He can lock it horizontal, or put some helicopter tape on the paint (what we do for some apps)

it all depends on what you want...my front hook just hardly clears the lower lip of the fascia, drives me crazy not wanting any scratching of the fascia...so know what you mean. Also there is a lot of drift in these cars for front fascia/crash bar mounting car to car...its amazing but its almost (ready?) half an inch .....

 

Im thinking about it

I hit a nasty pot hole and my front right suspension feels off now ...that's way the cars jacked up...then I grabbed the hooks and was like hey these dont look to hard to install.

 

My rear one does pivot, I'll likely be adding a rubber grommet or something of the like in to keep it from flopping about.

 

you can lock it horizontal? nice. ill have to see more pics of how others instal theres to see if they do the other things you mentioned. coulda used this this past week when my car was getting put on the flatbed

 

sub'd

 

Well you can tighten the bold on the end it that should help hold it in whatever position you leaving it. Could it loosen up over time from driving around...most likely but then just tighten it back up.

 

See mine has a little more play than yours, I've got a gap on both sides of the center piece about the width of a sawblade.

 

yeah these are hand made so that could be ...try the foam or something on the back side.

 

I need a 3" wide piece of thin steel...and some tin snips. I can picture the piece to make already