Other/Misc: How-To: Install a rear tow hook
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Joined: 02-03-08
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From: Port Perry Ontario
the original plan is to tuck in more. It measured all right on the race car...oh well....
rubber grommet can work I will send you a couple with the spacer plate. I screwed up the clearance on your rear one....oh well...hard to get good help these days...
Last edited by qwikredline; Feb 28, 2010 at 02:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Minnesota
Well the front will have to wait to warmer weather...I though I could drill the holes with the bumper on but like John had told me...aint gonna happen
Id did get it all measured up thought
Also, my largest drill bit is 3/8" which is just a hair to small so I'll have to get a larger size...which means the rear will have to wait too.
I'm not sure If I'll sand down that small lip on the upper part where the hook will come through or not...
John maybe you could make some spacers up to help lower the hooks just a bit...Longer bolts would have to be used to but I think it would help them go on the car easier.
Id just be nice to avoid having to just bend the upper part of the opening up.
....
Last edited by rallyracer; Feb 28, 2010 at 05:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Minnesota
these ones are designed so that you can leave the bracket on the car and remove the hook.
Keep hook in glove box or somewhere...that way nobody would even know you have it.
Last edited by rallyracer; Feb 28, 2010 at 05:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Minnesota
John sell parts through OTTP (site vendor). John built the Time Attack Race Cobalt and about 25+ other racing Cobalts (Grand AM Cup, Koni, etc...)
Maybe if these hooks become more popular they'll start being sold by OTTP but for now there a small volume item. John makes these by hand in his race shop. Only a few sets of these have been made for the Cobalt so far...reason why not everything has been 100% worked out yet, as in installing and such.
....
Maybe if these hooks become more popular they'll start being sold by OTTP but for now there a small volume item. John makes these by hand in his race shop. Only a few sets of these have been made for the Cobalt so far...reason why not everything has been 100% worked out yet, as in installing and such.
....
Last edited by rallyracer; Feb 28, 2010 at 08:00 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Hook off
Hook down
Hook up
Heres how far it sticks out
Its so similar to the rear one its not really worth its own how-to. Oh and you can drill with the bumper still on.
Only differences between the front and rear howto would be the direction of the bolts, for the front I opted to insert them from the bottom so they didnt show. Which could also be done for the rear.
Hook down
Hook up
Heres how far it sticks out
Its so similar to the rear one its not really worth its own how-to. Oh and you can drill with the bumper still on.
Only differences between the front and rear howto would be the direction of the bolts, for the front I opted to insert them from the bottom so they didnt show. Which could also be done for the rear.
Last edited by YelloEye; Feb 28, 2010 at 08:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Minnesota
how did you tighten them if the nuts were on the top side?
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From: Port Perry Ontario
they are not cheep....
Oh and one more thing for the rear I would use only two of the three holes. there is no way the hook will recess, I checked this morning (duh) so moving it out will allow it to hang clear vertically straight, and a little helicopter tape will help protect the paint or lock it out straight. Or remove it when not in use and put in glove box...etc....
Thanks man! When you get around to doing your rear bumper see how it fits only using 2 bolts. Since I already drilled my bumper I'm going to let it sit that way.
No I moved my washers to the topside, dont need them on the bottom since the mount is solid.
Thats not even the worst of it. I made the mistake of taking her thru an automatic wash that had brushes......yeah....I need to strip and claybar then rewax her this spring/summer.
Last edited by YelloEye; Mar 2, 2010 at 08:00 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Minnesota
You can use the grade 8 stuff if need be, I got my bolts from some redneck hardware store around here. Their 2" 7/16-14 btw. If you have an ace hardware or similar they should have the bolts you need.
No I moved my washers to the topside, dont need them on the bottom since the mount is solid.
No I moved my washers to the topside, dont need them on the bottom since the mount is solid.