2.0 LSJ Engine: How to plug your SC silencer holes
How to plug your SC silencer holes
Start off by taking a 15mm wrench and slowly depress the belt tensioner. You need to do this slowly to allow the small shock absorber to compress. If you go too fast or push too hard then the tiny piece of metal on the tensioner will round off.
NOTE: I later found out that it is actually easier to use a small pair of vice grips.

Next remove all obvious electrical connections and the 4 bolts that hold the SC on. You will need to use a long HEX socket bit for those. The one on the top left is the hardest to get to because of the fuel rail. If you have a sturdy T handle and a strong wrist you can take it off with that too they arent torqued down very tight.

Lift the blower off the intake manifold and remove the connection for the throttle body. You need to take the small grey clip out before you can remove the plug. Then cover all areas that you dont want critters to get in. I used 3m painters tape.

This is optional but reccomended. Take a small hex key and remove the SC oil drain plug. Tip the SC upside down and rock it back and forth until the 3.4oz of oil comes out. I'd like to thank Holiday Inn for the use of their cups
This will also help avoid and surpise messes should you screw up the next step.

New oil VS oil with 35000 miles on it. Stage 2 for 20000 miles.

Then remove the black bolts holding the main housing from the rotor housing. CAREFULLY pry the two apart. My massive german finger is pointing where you should pry. If you should happen to separate the other piece all the SC oil will dump out. Then slide the rotors out slowly and place in a safe spot where it wont fall down and spill oil all over the carpet. A wobbly table is a bad place.... Whoops .

If you are feeling lucky you can just score up the area where the quicksteel will be with some sandpaper and or scratch it with a small pick. I took a dremel tool and beveled the inside of the silencer holes so that he plugs would never fall out. After that cover the holes with tape. Then knead (just like dough) the quicksteel into the hole. Press your index finger on the rotor side and knead the quicksteel in with your other hand on the manifold side. Make sure that the rotor side matches the contour of the housing and is as smooth as possible. After the Quicksteel has set (10 min) you can sand it down if you need to. Before sliding the rotors back in clean the blower out with a can of brake cleaner. But be careful to only spray it through the throttle body side. That stuff will dissolve the grease in the bearings!

Wait an hour for the Quicksteel to fully cure before reinstalling SC. Fill the SC up with oil while waiting for it to cure. 3.4 oz of oil ONLY. Reinstall the SC and enjoy the new whine! Oh yeah it boosts a little faster too but who cares about that? MORE WHINE FTW!
Another note. Before using a dremel tool or sanding it is wise to cover the small grease covered roller bearings with some tape. Getting small metal pieces in there would be bad mmmmkay?
NOTE: I later found out that it is actually easier to use a small pair of vice grips.

Next remove all obvious electrical connections and the 4 bolts that hold the SC on. You will need to use a long HEX socket bit for those. The one on the top left is the hardest to get to because of the fuel rail. If you have a sturdy T handle and a strong wrist you can take it off with that too they arent torqued down very tight.

Lift the blower off the intake manifold and remove the connection for the throttle body. You need to take the small grey clip out before you can remove the plug. Then cover all areas that you dont want critters to get in. I used 3m painters tape.

This is optional but reccomended. Take a small hex key and remove the SC oil drain plug. Tip the SC upside down and rock it back and forth until the 3.4oz of oil comes out. I'd like to thank Holiday Inn for the use of their cups
This will also help avoid and surpise messes should you screw up the next step.
New oil VS oil with 35000 miles on it. Stage 2 for 20000 miles.

Then remove the black bolts holding the main housing from the rotor housing. CAREFULLY pry the two apart. My massive german finger is pointing where you should pry. If you should happen to separate the other piece all the SC oil will dump out. Then slide the rotors out slowly and place in a safe spot where it wont fall down and spill oil all over the carpet. A wobbly table is a bad place.... Whoops .

If you are feeling lucky you can just score up the area where the quicksteel will be with some sandpaper and or scratch it with a small pick. I took a dremel tool and beveled the inside of the silencer holes so that he plugs would never fall out. After that cover the holes with tape. Then knead (just like dough) the quicksteel into the hole. Press your index finger on the rotor side and knead the quicksteel in with your other hand on the manifold side. Make sure that the rotor side matches the contour of the housing and is as smooth as possible. After the Quicksteel has set (10 min) you can sand it down if you need to. Before sliding the rotors back in clean the blower out with a can of brake cleaner. But be careful to only spray it through the throttle body side. That stuff will dissolve the grease in the bearings!

Wait an hour for the Quicksteel to fully cure before reinstalling SC. Fill the SC up with oil while waiting for it to cure. 3.4 oz of oil ONLY. Reinstall the SC and enjoy the new whine! Oh yeah it boosts a little faster too but who cares about that? MORE WHINE FTW!
Another note. Before using a dremel tool or sanding it is wise to cover the small grease covered roller bearings with some tape. Getting small metal pieces in there would be bad mmmmkay?
Last edited by TommyP; May 17, 2012 at 09:02 PM.
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From: West Carrollton (Dayton), OH
Um, Oil should be 6.0oz total..... That's a major component of longevity of the blower's bearings. Only 3.4 may come out, but if you crack the casing open where the snouts internals are you need to drain out as much as possible and replace it with 6.0oz
6oz is too much.
Good write up Paul.
The fifth gen M62 supercharger is designed to hold exactly 100 ml (3-1/3 ounces) of supercharger oil. Be careful not to overfill it, or this could result in supercharger snout seal failure.
Last edited by chris88z24; Jul 28, 2008 at 01:48 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I also am a crazy bastard so I put ~1oz of lucas additive into my blowers.
Thanks buddy
Last edited by JohnnySasakiMGS; Jul 28, 2008 at 02:41 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: West Carrollton (Dayton), OH
Unfortunatley I forgot to take pictures of the beveled holes AND after I put the quicksteel on. Pretty much just grind off a small amount of metal on the rotor side of the silencer holes to a 45 degree angle.
I didnt want to add any more than came out. That way nothing was changed at all. If the oil is supposed to last the life of the car obviously its not going anywhere anyway. So i'm sure none if it "burned off". Oh you mean mL not cc right?
Thanks buddy
I didnt want to add any more than came out. That way nothing was changed at all. If the oil is supposed to last the life of the car obviously its not going anywhere anyway. So i'm sure none if it "burned off". Oh you mean mL not cc right?
Thanks buddy

awesome write up.. i have a couple questions though.. you said its optional but recommended to remove the sc oil drain plug.. do you have to refill the sc oil after you take it apart to fill in the silencer holes? sorry, im a noob at this stuff. and where did you buy the quiksteel from? and aso, you said: Then remove the 874 bolts holding the main housing from the rotor housing.. what are 874 bolts? i want to do this so bad but im afraid im gonna mess something up lol
awesome write up.. i have a couple questions though.. you said its optional but recommended to remove the sc oil drain plug.. do you have to refill the sc oil after you take it apart to fill in the silencer holes? sorry, im a noob at this stuff. and where did you buy the quiksteel from? and aso, you said: Then remove the 874 bolts holding the main housing from the rotor housing.. what are 874 bolts? i want to do this so bad but im afraid im gonna mess something up lol
I was being sarcastic about the eight hundred and seventy four bolts that hold the snout to the rotor housing. There is only 10 or 12.
Then remove the black bolts holding the main housing from the rotor housing. CAREFULLY pry the two apart. My massive german finger is pointing where you should pry. If you should happen to separate the other piece all the SC oil will dump out. Then slide the rotors out slowly and place in a safe spot where it wont fall down and spill oil all over the carpet. A wobbly table is a bad place.... Whoops .
Just a note - doesn't GM (and Eaton, and everyone else) recommend 6 oz of oil? This is the first place I've ever heard of 3.4 oz. >_>
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/how-change-your-s-c-oil-pics-100504/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/how-change-your-s-c-oil-pics-100504/
Just a note - doesn't GM (and Eaton, and everyone else) recommend 6 oz of oil? This is the first place I've ever heard of 3.4 oz. >_>
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=100504
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=100504
Miniscule if any. Just like a Honda with an intake. It sounds faster lol.
Last edited by JohnnySasakiMGS; Aug 8, 2008 at 05:05 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost



Glad you like it!