2.0 LSJ Engine: How to plug your SC silencer holes
This intrigues me greatly but seems risky at the same time not only for the risk of foreign debris flying through your engine but even more so if you still have a factory warranty the last time I had my car at the dealer they were combing that thing over to find a reason to void my warranty but then again its probably not something they would think to check for and I'm sure it sounds completely bad ass I'm totally on the fence about this one
Its pretty safe. I'm sure they wouldnt go through all the trouble of taking off your supercharger to look for a very seldom done mod. If you bevel the holes on the rotor side of the housing like I did the quicksteel will absolutely never fall out.
Sounds like the quicksteel is rubbing on your rotors... take the SC off and check it over. You might have fucked your car up...
Either take it apart again and make sure nothing's rubbing against the s/c rotors or throw on some belt dressing and call it a day. +1 if you think I'm talking about salad dressing and actually pour some wishbone on it...
Last edited by theneelster; Nov 2, 2008 at 05:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Yes that is tape over the holes on the rotor side of the housing.
Nah I think that would make a ridiculous racket not a squeak. Kind like rattle rattle scrape clang boom.
Last edited by JohnnySasakiMGS; Nov 2, 2008 at 08:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You guys know that you can fill the silencer holes without draining the snout oil right..?
I put a C clamp on the snout to hold it in place against the "rotor pack" side and was able to simply separate the SC body from the rotors without fear of pulling off the snout and losing the oil.
BTW though I have had the snout apart when I replaced my coupler with a ZZP unit, and more than 3.4 ounces did drain out... I let the snout sit upside down for a couple hours while I was porting the SC inlet and outlet, and the amount of oil that came out was very close to the 6 ounces that I had purchased from ZZP. For that reason, I filled it back up with the full ZZP recommended 6 oz...
I put a C clamp on the snout to hold it in place against the "rotor pack" side and was able to simply separate the SC body from the rotors without fear of pulling off the snout and losing the oil.
BTW though I have had the snout apart when I replaced my coupler with a ZZP unit, and more than 3.4 ounces did drain out... I let the snout sit upside down for a couple hours while I was porting the SC inlet and outlet, and the amount of oil that came out was very close to the 6 ounces that I had purchased from ZZP. For that reason, I filled it back up with the full ZZP recommended 6 oz...
Yeah I know that we dont have to drain the oil. I just did it because I felt that I may as well change it since I was in there anyway. 6 oz may have can out after waiting an hour but when I did it approximately 3.4 oz came out. So that was all I put back in. I wasnt going to sit there and let it all drain out. I'm not patient like that.
Well good enough. Just soo everyone knows that the oil change isn't necessary since nobody knows the right answer to the amount.
I am not patient either, but it took a couple hours to do a big ass port job on the blower inlet so it would match good to my LS4 throttle body...
I am not patient either, but it took a couple hours to do a big ass port job on the blower inlet so it would match good to my LS4 throttle body...
i really wanna try this but its alot of work...
My Injen intake made my S/C wine easily twice as loud... get that first if ur thinking about doing this mod before you **** your **** up big time...
My Injen intake made my S/C wine easily twice as loud... get that first if ur thinking about doing this mod before you **** your **** up big time...
i cant seem to get to the belt tensioner it is like blocked off...do i have to have a 15mm wrench that has a bend in it? you said you could use plyers but i dont see how that is possible. bought the quicksteel but i cant get belt to losen




