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2.0 LNF Engine: LNF Evap Vent Valve

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2.0 LNF Engine: LNF Evap Vent Valve

Old 01-29-2011, 04:30 PM
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LNF Evap Vent Valve

So i have been getting all kinds of rough idle and random misfires at startup.

Been throwing P0455 P0496 and i think P0495 as well. It only happened once a week or if i just filled up the car.



So here are the pics for those that need instruction.

This first pictures shows the side of the Evap canister. Notice there are 3 hoses coming from the right and an electrical connector next to that. The hoses with a white connector have a release button on both sides so make sure to depress them both. Also, before you try to unclip them make sure to push them to the left first to help release them, then pull towards the right(passenger side)



Second picture is off that electrical connector push your finger down on the clip release on top. Press down on the release and pull the connector towards the rear of the vehicle.



Now i didn't show the other connector very well in the first pick. Here it is. Just pull the top of the red clip back then pull down on the connector.



Now on the left side of the canister there is a 10mm bolt you have to undo. USING A RATCHING WRENCH OR LONG ASS EXTENSIONS IS ADVISED TO SAVE TIME. This is the only one you have to undo. Ask me how i know.



Now look at the top of the big canister. It wedges into that slot at the top, so just pull it towards the drivers side and the entire canister comes out.



Sorry about the last step I forgot pictures. So just look at the vent valve. Turn it counterclockwise to release. I had a little trouble getting it to go back in but i spun it with a little down pressure and finally got it to go in. It turns in counter clockwise and should snap in facing straight down.



Then just reverse everything. The clips and hoses should all click when put back on. Wedge it back in there and put the bolt back in. Start car and check for leaks ans idle.
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:21 AM
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This is universal for all Cobalts.

This job should take like 10min. Dealer charges like 0.8hr or something crazy. The way I've seen it done is you just take out the bolt on the left of the canister then rotate it down so you can get the solenoid out. Then reverse.
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 2.2balt View Post
This is universal for all Cobalts.

This job should take like 10min. Dealer charges like 0.8hr or something crazy. The way I've seen it done is you just take out the bolt on the left of the canister then rotate it down so you can get the solenoid out. Then reverse.
I'm guessing it's pretty universal for a lot of GM cars.

That's a good idea about rotating it down, but i had it on a lift and it was easy to remove and work on the bench with.
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:41 AM
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Yeah at work we have a lift and all that too. Its easy peasy...like everything on these cars haha.

Nice write up though!
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:48 AM
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I just got this code, what does this do? p0455 is a bitch, lol. Where in the engine bay is this exactly located. Im guessing its near the firewall.
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by CudaJoe View Post
I just got this code, what does this do? p0455 is a bitch, lol. Where in the engine bay is this exactly located. Im guessing its near the firewall.
NOOOOOOOOO!!!! It's underneath the car, at the rear axle.

You're welcome
Allex
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Old 08-25-2011, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CudaJoe View Post
I just got this code, what does this do? p0455 is a bitch, lol. Where in the engine bay is this exactly located. Im guessing its near the firewall.
Notice the rear axle in the picture. It's right behind the rear axle. This is super easy on a lift.
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:46 PM
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Dead thread revival!!! Does anyone know the gm part# for this solenoid??
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Old 10-06-2011, 08:16 AM
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Last I heard

GM part numbers:
Vent Selenoid - 25932573 - $32
Purge Selenoid - 12597567 - $41
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Old 10-13-2011, 02:25 PM
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Thanks!!
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Old 11-08-2011, 01:50 PM
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I've been throwing P0496 - and finally got around to having O'Rielly's order the Purge Valve for me.

I'm trying to get the 3 lines off of the passenger side of the canister.. and yes - I'm depressing the tabs, pushing a bit to the left, then trying to pull them off to the right (towards passenger side).. but they really aren't wanting to budge. Am I just being a candy-ass, and not putting enough pressure either to the tabs or to pulling off to the right?

Do I need to apply more pressure to the tabs? Or to pulling the hose to the right? The lower hose with the white tabs is the first I'm working on. The tabs *do* push in, but not enough to open up the flare to allow it to come off of the canister. (the middle hose - with the green tab doesn't offer any movement at the tab. Is there an accepted way of getting that one to come off?)

I'm resistant to breaking things... and really just want the stinkin' check-engine light to just go off... (and to be able to fill the tank and not have the car run rough upon startup).

Do I really *need* to unhook the 3 hoses? I've got the rear of the car up on ramps, so I've got plenty of room to work. The bolt on the left comes off just fine... it's just those hoses....

Thanks,
Rex S.
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Old 11-08-2011, 02:14 PM
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Never mind... Taking off the hoses on the right is unnecessary. Didn't even have to remove the bolt. Just unhooked the valve, and twisted counterclockwise & down - and it was done - just as 2.2balt mentioned above.

Now to take back the wrong part that O'Rielly's ordered. (They sold me the valve that's under the hood - just to the driver's side of the engine - uses same connector as the one on the canister).

Thanks,
Rex S.
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Old 11-08-2011, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ShadowHawk View Post
Never mind... Taking off the hoses on the right is unnecessary. Didn't even have to remove the bolt. Just unhooked the valve, and twisted counterclockwise & down - and it was done - just as 2.2balt mentioned above.

Now to take back the wrong part that O'Rielly's ordered. (They sold me the valve that's under the hood - just to the driver's side of the engine - uses same connector as the one on the canister).

Thanks,
Rex S.
That's the purge valve that fixed P0496 for me actually. Not the vent valve in this post. So you may have the right part and not know it.
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Old 12-25-2016, 08:21 PM
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This is universal for all Cobalts.

This job should take like 10min. Dealer charges like 0.8hr or something crazy. The way I've seen it done is you just take out the bolt on the left of the canister then rotate it down so you can get the solenoid out. Then reverse.
Yep, I just want to confirm that this fixed my P0495 on my 2009 SSTC. Super easy repair. I ordered an AC Delco 22865590 - Vapor Canister Vent Valve and an AC Delco 19257603 harness to adapt from the old style wiring plug to the new style.

I was able to remove the old vent valve without even touching the vapor canister mounting bolt. Just take off the wiring plug and twist. I did have to remove that single 10mm mounting bolt on the left side of the vapor canister and slip the canister out of the mount to get a bit more clearance to install the new one. No need to uncouple any of the hoses, just pop in the new valve and twist. 10 minute job, no messing with fuel lines or vent lines or anything...easy.

I cleared codes and I'm good to go. I could visually see the plunger on the old valve was retracted as shown in the attached photo. The plunger on the new valve was fully extended. Not much question the old valve had failed. This car has just been so awesome to work on. Parts are cheap, most repairs are simple, just a great car.
Attached Thumbnails evap-1.jpg  
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Old 04-26-2018, 07:05 PM
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repost piktarz
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Old 04-26-2018, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Omnigear View Post
repost piktarz
They work fine, you need a plugin for your browser so that you can see the photobucket lameness
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Old 04-26-2018, 09:07 PM
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Omnigear, that's a name I haven't seen for awhile.
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Old 04-27-2018, 07:52 AM
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pic 2







Pics in correct order
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