metroplex

Did you do an oil analysis on your 10k M1 0W-30 sample? If not, there's no way to tell if the oil was good or bad. The military tests their engine oil at a certain number of hours and changes it based on this.

Traviper

iTrader: (1)

sub'd

ryman416

iTrader: (1)

i don't pay attention to the oil life meter. i rely on dip stick and i just change between 3-5k miles every time

Vegas

too bad i cant change the oil on my cobalt like i do on my jeep.

i can just slide a 5 gallon bucket under it with out jacking it up lol

Refractor

Anyone else use one of those dipstick pumps to change the oil? Saves A LOT of time. I was alarmed though when i changed my oil for the first time after buying it and only like 3 quarts came out. No good. Thats less than half of what it should have been but it ran fine. Don't know why I didn't check the oil sooner. That was a noob mistake.

Paprika

Question: (Add this to the original write-up to make it even better)

Does the Cobalt engines (2.0-2.4L) have a crush washer on the oil drain plug that will need to be replaced?

I asked this because my last car did and it's best to know for sure before you start the process... ya know?

PenguinPIE

iTrader: (5)

don't pump the oil out through the dipstick as a lot of crap will remain at the bottom of your oil pan

xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

iTrader: (1)

Cobalt Oil Pan Plug Seal 3536966 - Crate Engine Depot

CrashMurphy

Took the balt in to a Mobil 1 Lube Express today. Said it'd be about 20-30 minutes. I go out for a bite to eat, come back and its still on the hoist and hood up. I asked what the deal was. They hadn't even drained the oil yet they said. Why the hell not I replied. Too complicated with the supercharger in the way. Better take it to the dealer he said.

If it wasn't so cold here or I knew someone with a garage I could use, I'd like to try this myself. Doesn't look that much more difficult than my Civic except for the top-loaded filter. But I'm not about to do an oil change out in the street in -20 below weather.

gotboost?17

iTrader: (46)

nice ill use this , this weekend

CrashMurphy

Anyone happen to know who manufactures the filters for the Motorcraft brand, and how they fare against Mobil 1, K&N, etc...

Glowbalt

iTrader: (3)

wow, its not even difficult -___-.

SuperchargedSS

Why does this post say "All engines" when it's clearly for the LSJ. Anyone that has a TC and reads this will end up with mis information. Its not a straight in approach with the extention among other things. If there is step by step images etc buried in here somewhere then maybe move em to the front? I was trying to explain how to do this to a friend and ended up sending him here, but this is mis information for tc owners. Even the amount of oil needed on the orig post is wrong for the tc. Fail. Is there a TC specific post?

If I do a search for LNF Oil Change the first post that comes up here is the Calgary Random Talk thread. Search is as helpful as this post..

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

every single time i do my oil change i keep forgetting how much it takes. now ill just reference this from now on lol

insylem

I'd have asked them how is the supercharger in the way??
Haha

This calls for a poster
Oil Change
You're doing it wrong....

MP81

iTrader: (2)

It's listed in your user manual.

This was also written before the TC came out...like two years before.

SuperchargedSS

It's not for me, I have done this. Trying to explain it to someone else. Before sending him to the gm book, I was hoping there would be a step by step for him here. I guess not.

But thank god there's a "Dat Ass" thread tho...

I will walk him through it and tell him to *** this place unless he wants to read roll race kill stories..

insylem

I'd just like to comment that everything on our cars is in Metric.... and that useing standard sizes can cause damage/rounding off of metric stuff. That said
The Oil Filter houseing is 32mm
I think the Oil drain plug is either 14mm, or 15mm
But Id also like to add that if you can't the the correct size metric,
useing standard is more preferd then useing an adjustable wrench,
If you do have to use an adjustable wrench use it the correct direction.
Also: Never use Pliers

Because of the low torque on the Oil Filter house, and large size, useing the standard is probably not
going to hurt anything... But still,
When you can, use the right tool for the right job...

Ok, I'm getting off my soap box now.

SuperchargedSS

THIS.

And its 15mm. Our cars are metric.

LethalSS

you have a TC, maybe snap some pics and author a new topic?

SuperchargedSS

Not a bad idea. I will need to dump oil shortly myself.

CruzinYellow

iTrader: (2)

Anyone else tried AMSOIL 0W-30 100% synthetic (Signature Series)? I decided to give it a try. It's supposed to last 17,500 miles or one year. If nobody chimes in that has used this oil before I'll let you know how it turns out. Been using Mobil 1 oil and filters since I got the car but got the feeling this might in fact be better.

Changed my oil earlier this week. Let the oil drain out after running the engine to regular operating temps. Poured in AMSOIL and the car rev'd up to around 2500 RPM's at first after start up. Seemed like the PCM had to relearn since it took a few mins to finally idle down to where it usually idles at.

outtamymind

well makes sense that it would rev higher, our cars are designed for 5w30, running 0w30 will have its risks especially for a car with some miles on it thats been used to 5w30 all its life. but at the same time 0w30 is designed for area's that don't get too cold, so in that sense you should be ok, just keep an eye/ear out for anything weird until your next oil change.

MP81

iTrader: (2)

Amsoil is potentially one of the best (if not, the best) manufacturers of oil. They created the first synthetic oil back in the day.

outtamymind

agreed