All Engines: Sea foam (CORRECT HOW TO)
Thread Starter
Banned
iTrader: (2)
Joined: 10-24-08
Posts: 12,836
Likes: 1
From: Vine Grove Kentucky
Sea foam (CORRECT HOW TO)
The Link to there site is http://www.seafoamsales.com/........
Thank You Sea Foam!!!!!!!
First off sea foam is safe for all engine including DIRECT INJECTION!!!
What is carbon Build up?
here is some on a piston!!!! The right one has not been sea foamed the left one has.. SEE THE DIFFERENCE!!
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Carbon is leftover residue resulting from the fuel burning in the engine cylinder. Most of the carbon residue formed by burning fuel in the cylinders is expelled through the exhaust valve and out the exhaust system. However, over time as fuel varnish deposits collect on cylinder walls and on the tops of the pistons, small bits of carbon get imbedded into this varnish. As this process continues, significant carbon deposits can accumulate. Carbon retains heat, and some of these deposits remain so hot that they act like small spark plugs, prematurely igniting the air/fuel mixture that is injected into the cylinder before the piston has reached the correct position – a condition called detonation or pre-ignition. Detonation can cause severe damage to the pistons, valves, sparkplugs and cylinder walls. Sea Foam® Motor Treatment dissolves the varnish which is the glue that holds the carbon deposits, and thus allows these deposits to be expelled safely through the exhaust system.
To clean carbon and varnish deposits from the tops of cylinders and the backs of intake valves, add 1 oz. Sea Foam® to each gallon of fuel. Sea Foam® will slowly re-liquefy the varnish and gum deposits that hold carbon together.
To remove carbon and varnish deposits more quickly, Sea Foam® can be induced directly into the combustion chamber via the following method. With the engine warmed up and running, SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ½ can of Sea Foam® down the carburetor throat or into any main manifold vacuum line that DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system or use Sea Foam® Spray through the throttle body (discribed in a different section of this web site).
Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea Foam® to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea Foam® will dissolve the varnish deposits that hold carbon together. After allowing the Sea Foam® to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized carbon to be safely expelled from the system. REPEAT Sea Foam® TREATMENT AS NECESSARY.
Performing a Sea Foam® Engine Treatment on a Fuel Injected Engine
Begin by parking the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Locate a vacuum line that you are certain DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. On many vehicles the easiest option is taking the vacuum line from your brake booster PCV. (See notes about special situations such as the Vortex or Subaru H style engines.) If you are not certain, contact a certified technician.
thanks broskie
Start the engine. For automatic transmissions, keep the car in PARK. For manual transmissions, put the car in neutral and apply the parking brake. SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ½ can of Sea Foam® Motor Treatment into the vacuum hose, while at the same time revving the engine to about 2000 RPMs. You will begin to see clouds of white exhaust from the tailpipes. When you have finished pouring, turn off the engine and let it sit for at least 10 minutes.
Now start the vehicle again. Drive it aggressively (but legally) for about 2 to 5 miles or until the white smoke is no longer being produced. REPEAT Sea Foam® TREATMENT AS NECESSARY.
To clean the entire crankcase including rods, and pistons:
To clean oil rings and lifters, add 1½ oz. Sea Foam® to each quart of oil. Sea Foam® will slowly re-liquefy the old oil varnish residue that builds up on lifters and rings and prevents them from functioning normally. This process can be done as part of a pre service cleaning by adding the Sea Foam® to the oil at least 30 miles before the next oil change interval. OR it can be done as a preventative maintenance process without changing the oil. You can leave Sea Foam® in the oil indefinitely as long as the oil is clean. The addition of a high-detergent oil like Sea Foam® may cause the oil to become dirty faster than normal as buildup oil residue and contamination are cleaned. Check the oil at regular intervals and when it gets dirty, change it.
Why is Sea Foam Harmless:
Sea Foam® is a safe and versatile additive that can be used in fuel, oil or added directly into the combustion chamber on 2-cycle, 4-cycle, rotary and diesel engines. Sea Foam® is a 100% pure petroleum product, so it is as safe for seals, o-rings, sensors and other fuel system and engine components as the fuel or motor oil that runs the engine. Sea Foam® contains NO harsh chemicals. All three types of engines (2 & 4 cycle, rotary and diesel engines) suffer from the problems described below, all of which are addressed by Sea Foam®.
1.Old petroleum residue (gum and varnish) buildup. All fuels and engine oils leave behind residue deposits that accumulate over time. In the crank case, this residue builds up around lifters and rings, preventing them from functioning properly. In the fuel system, residue builds up in the injectors or carburetor jets, on the tops of pistons and on the backs of intake valves. Carbon in the exhaust adheres to this residue and forms carbon deposits. THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE RESIDUE IN YOUR CRANK CASE AND THE RESIDUE IN YOUR FUEL SYSTEM. IT IS ALL PETROLEUM VARNISH. Sea Foam® slowly and safely re-liquefies this varnish so contaminants and carbon deposits can be safely cleaned out of the systems as the engine is operated.
2.Lack of lubrication. This can occur in the fuel system as the result of dry fuel additives such as ethanol that actually remove lubrication from the engine components. In the crank case, varnish buildup around the lifters and rings can prevent the oil from properly circulating and lubricating. Sea Foam® contains a high-temperature penetrating, lubricating and cleaning oil that will not evaporate even in high heat areas like the combustion chamber. It is also able to safely dissolve varnish from lifters and rings so the oil can flow and lubricate properly.
3.Moisture. Fuel can absorb moisture from the atmosphere - even more so with the addition of ethanol. Crank case oil can also become easily contaminated with moisture. Sea Foam® fully encapsulates the water molecules in the fuel and oil to prevent phase separation - rendering the absorbed moisture harmless.
Is Sea Foam Safe to run through a vacuum line?
Using Sea Foam® through a vacuum line is easy and safe if you remember one thing. Liquids don’t compress and can cause an engine to hydro lock if too much liquid is applied. Always regulate the rate at which Sea Foam® goes into the engine. Never insert the vacuum line into the bottle of Sea Foam®, always pour Sea Foam® slowly into the vacuum line.
It is important to make sure the engine is at operating temperature. Then find a vacuum line that feeds all cylinders, usually the PCV hose or the vacuum brake booster line may feed all cylinders. If you are in doubt as to which vacuum line to use, YOU MUST check with a certified auto technician. If a technician is not available or if your engine doesn't have any vacuum lines, then use the Sea Foam® Spray method described in another section of this web site.
After the correct vacuum line has been located, start engine and disconnect vacuum line. With engine running at idle and at operating temperature slowly pour Sea Foam® into vacuum line. It is important to control the rate at which Sea Foam® goes into the vacuum line. The engine will labor while applying Sea Foam®. Pour enough Sea Foam® into the vacuum line to make the engine labor at idle, but not enough to stall engine.
After 1/3 to ½ can of Sea Foam® has been induced into the engine, shut engine off and let sit (hot soak) for about 5- 10 minutes and reconnect vacuum line. After the 5-10 minute hot soak period, restart engine in a well ventilated area as exhaust may be extreme for a short time. Road test the vehicle immediately after start up, driving aggressively until exhaust looks normal. This usually takes up to 5 miles. It is always better and safer to road test car to clean the gum, varnish and carbon out of the engine.
By doing this you have done an intense carbon cleaning procedure to your engine. This operation is recommended once a year or every 15,000 miles.
What makes Sea Foam so Safe?
Sea Foam® is composed solely of three specially blended petroleum oils – each having specific functions such as lubricating, cleaning or moisture control. There are no other chemicals (not even color dyes) included in the formulation. Being of the same basic petroleum chemistry as the motor oils and gasoline you already use in your engine, Sea Foam® is completely compatible with all engine components, fuels, lubricants and other additives you may have in your engine. Sea Foam® will not damage gaskets or seals, and will not interact in a negative way with motor oil or fuel, or the additives used in them.
Do i need to change my oil if i just seafoamed my vehicle in teh oil or not?
The most frequently asked question about using Sea Foam® is as follows: “After using Sea Foam® in my oil, fuel, or through the vacuum line (to clean carbon from the combustion chamber) do I need to change my oil?” The short answer is: No you don’t have to change your oil after using Sea Foam® in any application.
When using Sea Foam® in your fuel or through the vacuum line for carbon cleaning your oil does not need to be changed. Using Sea Foam® in your oil, at 1 ½ ounces per quart, is a safe way to clean a crankcase, free up rings or free up sticky lifters as you drive. Sea Foam® is not a chemical engine flush and therefore, it will not damage internal engine components or plug the oil pick up screen. Sea Foam® is a pure petroleum blend with no chemical additives and is safe for long term cleaning or short term pre-service cleaning.
Sea Foam® is a blend of highly refined additive oils and is compatible with all motor oils including synthetics. It is safe for all internal engine components and will not affect any seals, gaskets or o-rings. Sea Foam® cleans oil deposits and varnish in your crankcase by safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. The longer Sea Foam® is in your oil the cleaner your crankcase will become. When adding Sea Foam® to clean oil, for long term maintenance cleaning, you must check your oil periodically for color and clarity, when your oil looks dirty change it. Because you added cleaning oil (Sea Foam®) to your oil you may have to change oil before the expected service interval.
When adding Sea Foam® to dirty oil before an oil change, for best results use 1 ½ ounces per quart of oil at least 100 miles before oil is changed
Will Seafoam hurt my Evap System or emmisions system?
No – quite the opposite. Sea Foam® actually helps to clean the catalytic elements, restoring its efficiency, and reducing that “rotten egg” odor you occasionally smell from some catalytic converters that aren’t working properly
Can Seafoam be used with ethanol blends or race gas?
Sea Foam® has been extensively tested and proven to work well in Ethanol blended fuels since they first appeared in the 1990s – even the newest E-85 blend. Ethanol has the effect of stripping the protective layer of motor oil from the cylinder walls, so the addition of Sea Foam® Motor Treatment to your fuel actually helps to combat this drying effect by adding upper cylinder lubrication that helps to prolong the life of your engine and its fuel system components. Additionally, Ethanol can absorb moisture and when ethanol reaches its saturation point can cause what is known as (phase separation) this is when the moisture and ethanol can separate from the gasoline causing drive ability problems and potential engine damage. Sea Foam® can control moisture in fuel caused by condensation by breaking moisture into molecules and dispersing it thought the fuel, if moisture can not pool or collect ethanol can not absorb the moisture and renders the moisture harmless.
Thank You Sea Foam!!!!!!!
First off sea foam is safe for all engine including DIRECT INJECTION!!!
What is carbon Build up?
here is some on a piston!!!! The right one has not been sea foamed the left one has.. SEE THE DIFFERENCE!!
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Carbon is leftover residue resulting from the fuel burning in the engine cylinder. Most of the carbon residue formed by burning fuel in the cylinders is expelled through the exhaust valve and out the exhaust system. However, over time as fuel varnish deposits collect on cylinder walls and on the tops of the pistons, small bits of carbon get imbedded into this varnish. As this process continues, significant carbon deposits can accumulate. Carbon retains heat, and some of these deposits remain so hot that they act like small spark plugs, prematurely igniting the air/fuel mixture that is injected into the cylinder before the piston has reached the correct position – a condition called detonation or pre-ignition. Detonation can cause severe damage to the pistons, valves, sparkplugs and cylinder walls. Sea Foam® Motor Treatment dissolves the varnish which is the glue that holds the carbon deposits, and thus allows these deposits to be expelled safely through the exhaust system.
To clean carbon and varnish deposits from the tops of cylinders and the backs of intake valves, add 1 oz. Sea Foam® to each gallon of fuel. Sea Foam® will slowly re-liquefy the varnish and gum deposits that hold carbon together.
To remove carbon and varnish deposits more quickly, Sea Foam® can be induced directly into the combustion chamber via the following method. With the engine warmed up and running, SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ½ can of Sea Foam® down the carburetor throat or into any main manifold vacuum line that DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system or use Sea Foam® Spray through the throttle body (discribed in a different section of this web site).
Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea Foam® to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea Foam® will dissolve the varnish deposits that hold carbon together. After allowing the Sea Foam® to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized carbon to be safely expelled from the system. REPEAT Sea Foam® TREATMENT AS NECESSARY.
Performing a Sea Foam® Engine Treatment on a Fuel Injected Engine
Begin by parking the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Locate a vacuum line that you are certain DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. On many vehicles the easiest option is taking the vacuum line from your brake booster PCV. (See notes about special situations such as the Vortex or Subaru H style engines.) If you are not certain, contact a certified technician.
Start the engine. For automatic transmissions, keep the car in PARK. For manual transmissions, put the car in neutral and apply the parking brake. SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ½ can of Sea Foam® Motor Treatment into the vacuum hose, while at the same time revving the engine to about 2000 RPMs. You will begin to see clouds of white exhaust from the tailpipes. When you have finished pouring, turn off the engine and let it sit for at least 10 minutes.
Now start the vehicle again. Drive it aggressively (but legally) for about 2 to 5 miles or until the white smoke is no longer being produced. REPEAT Sea Foam® TREATMENT AS NECESSARY.
To clean the entire crankcase including rods, and pistons:
To clean oil rings and lifters, add 1½ oz. Sea Foam® to each quart of oil. Sea Foam® will slowly re-liquefy the old oil varnish residue that builds up on lifters and rings and prevents them from functioning normally. This process can be done as part of a pre service cleaning by adding the Sea Foam® to the oil at least 30 miles before the next oil change interval. OR it can be done as a preventative maintenance process without changing the oil. You can leave Sea Foam® in the oil indefinitely as long as the oil is clean. The addition of a high-detergent oil like Sea Foam® may cause the oil to become dirty faster than normal as buildup oil residue and contamination are cleaned. Check the oil at regular intervals and when it gets dirty, change it.
Why is Sea Foam Harmless:
Sea Foam® is a safe and versatile additive that can be used in fuel, oil or added directly into the combustion chamber on 2-cycle, 4-cycle, rotary and diesel engines. Sea Foam® is a 100% pure petroleum product, so it is as safe for seals, o-rings, sensors and other fuel system and engine components as the fuel or motor oil that runs the engine. Sea Foam® contains NO harsh chemicals. All three types of engines (2 & 4 cycle, rotary and diesel engines) suffer from the problems described below, all of which are addressed by Sea Foam®.
1.Old petroleum residue (gum and varnish) buildup. All fuels and engine oils leave behind residue deposits that accumulate over time. In the crank case, this residue builds up around lifters and rings, preventing them from functioning properly. In the fuel system, residue builds up in the injectors or carburetor jets, on the tops of pistons and on the backs of intake valves. Carbon in the exhaust adheres to this residue and forms carbon deposits. THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE RESIDUE IN YOUR CRANK CASE AND THE RESIDUE IN YOUR FUEL SYSTEM. IT IS ALL PETROLEUM VARNISH. Sea Foam® slowly and safely re-liquefies this varnish so contaminants and carbon deposits can be safely cleaned out of the systems as the engine is operated.
2.Lack of lubrication. This can occur in the fuel system as the result of dry fuel additives such as ethanol that actually remove lubrication from the engine components. In the crank case, varnish buildup around the lifters and rings can prevent the oil from properly circulating and lubricating. Sea Foam® contains a high-temperature penetrating, lubricating and cleaning oil that will not evaporate even in high heat areas like the combustion chamber. It is also able to safely dissolve varnish from lifters and rings so the oil can flow and lubricate properly.
3.Moisture. Fuel can absorb moisture from the atmosphere - even more so with the addition of ethanol. Crank case oil can also become easily contaminated with moisture. Sea Foam® fully encapsulates the water molecules in the fuel and oil to prevent phase separation - rendering the absorbed moisture harmless.
Is Sea Foam Safe to run through a vacuum line?
Using Sea Foam® through a vacuum line is easy and safe if you remember one thing. Liquids don’t compress and can cause an engine to hydro lock if too much liquid is applied. Always regulate the rate at which Sea Foam® goes into the engine. Never insert the vacuum line into the bottle of Sea Foam®, always pour Sea Foam® slowly into the vacuum line.
It is important to make sure the engine is at operating temperature. Then find a vacuum line that feeds all cylinders, usually the PCV hose or the vacuum brake booster line may feed all cylinders. If you are in doubt as to which vacuum line to use, YOU MUST check with a certified auto technician. If a technician is not available or if your engine doesn't have any vacuum lines, then use the Sea Foam® Spray method described in another section of this web site.
After the correct vacuum line has been located, start engine and disconnect vacuum line. With engine running at idle and at operating temperature slowly pour Sea Foam® into vacuum line. It is important to control the rate at which Sea Foam® goes into the vacuum line. The engine will labor while applying Sea Foam®. Pour enough Sea Foam® into the vacuum line to make the engine labor at idle, but not enough to stall engine.
After 1/3 to ½ can of Sea Foam® has been induced into the engine, shut engine off and let sit (hot soak) for about 5- 10 minutes and reconnect vacuum line. After the 5-10 minute hot soak period, restart engine in a well ventilated area as exhaust may be extreme for a short time. Road test the vehicle immediately after start up, driving aggressively until exhaust looks normal. This usually takes up to 5 miles. It is always better and safer to road test car to clean the gum, varnish and carbon out of the engine.
By doing this you have done an intense carbon cleaning procedure to your engine. This operation is recommended once a year or every 15,000 miles.
What makes Sea Foam so Safe?
Sea Foam® is composed solely of three specially blended petroleum oils – each having specific functions such as lubricating, cleaning or moisture control. There are no other chemicals (not even color dyes) included in the formulation. Being of the same basic petroleum chemistry as the motor oils and gasoline you already use in your engine, Sea Foam® is completely compatible with all engine components, fuels, lubricants and other additives you may have in your engine. Sea Foam® will not damage gaskets or seals, and will not interact in a negative way with motor oil or fuel, or the additives used in them.
Do i need to change my oil if i just seafoamed my vehicle in teh oil or not?
The most frequently asked question about using Sea Foam® is as follows: “After using Sea Foam® in my oil, fuel, or through the vacuum line (to clean carbon from the combustion chamber) do I need to change my oil?” The short answer is: No you don’t have to change your oil after using Sea Foam® in any application.
When using Sea Foam® in your fuel or through the vacuum line for carbon cleaning your oil does not need to be changed. Using Sea Foam® in your oil, at 1 ½ ounces per quart, is a safe way to clean a crankcase, free up rings or free up sticky lifters as you drive. Sea Foam® is not a chemical engine flush and therefore, it will not damage internal engine components or plug the oil pick up screen. Sea Foam® is a pure petroleum blend with no chemical additives and is safe for long term cleaning or short term pre-service cleaning.
Sea Foam® is a blend of highly refined additive oils and is compatible with all motor oils including synthetics. It is safe for all internal engine components and will not affect any seals, gaskets or o-rings. Sea Foam® cleans oil deposits and varnish in your crankcase by safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. The longer Sea Foam® is in your oil the cleaner your crankcase will become. When adding Sea Foam® to clean oil, for long term maintenance cleaning, you must check your oil periodically for color and clarity, when your oil looks dirty change it. Because you added cleaning oil (Sea Foam®) to your oil you may have to change oil before the expected service interval.
When adding Sea Foam® to dirty oil before an oil change, for best results use 1 ½ ounces per quart of oil at least 100 miles before oil is changed
Will Seafoam hurt my Evap System or emmisions system?
No – quite the opposite. Sea Foam® actually helps to clean the catalytic elements, restoring its efficiency, and reducing that “rotten egg” odor you occasionally smell from some catalytic converters that aren’t working properly
Can Seafoam be used with ethanol blends or race gas?
Sea Foam® has been extensively tested and proven to work well in Ethanol blended fuels since they first appeared in the 1990s – even the newest E-85 blend. Ethanol has the effect of stripping the protective layer of motor oil from the cylinder walls, so the addition of Sea Foam® Motor Treatment to your fuel actually helps to combat this drying effect by adding upper cylinder lubrication that helps to prolong the life of your engine and its fuel system components. Additionally, Ethanol can absorb moisture and when ethanol reaches its saturation point can cause what is known as (phase separation) this is when the moisture and ethanol can separate from the gasoline causing drive ability problems and potential engine damage. Sea Foam® can control moisture in fuel caused by condensation by breaking moisture into molecules and dispersing it thought the fuel, if moisture can not pool or collect ethanol can not absorb the moisture and renders the moisture harmless.
Last edited by Chevycobaltss3; Sep 7, 2011 at 09:39 AM.
what ever hose that goes onto the nipple thats connected to the mani, best way i found was grab a hose the same size as the one ur pulling off connect and suck how ever much u need, an its normal for the engine to act rought when that hose is off
I literally just finished seafoaming my SS.
What you want to do is suck up the seafoam just a little at a time. Slowly dip the vacuum line into the fluid and right when you start to hear it "slurp", stop. Follow the level of the fluid as the engine sucks it in and you'll get it entering the engine nice and even and consistent
What you want to do is suck up the seafoam just a little at a time. Slowly dip the vacuum line into the fluid and right when you start to hear it "slurp", stop. Follow the level of the fluid as the engine sucks it in and you'll get it entering the engine nice and even and consistent
I always used the nipple under the black plastic fuel rail cover that said Supercharged..... It was directly in the middle of the intake manifold and you didn't have to worry about it going threw the SC ...not that it was a huge deal but it was a more direct route.
I literally just finished seafoaming my SS.
What you want to do is suck up the seafoam just a little at a time. Slowly dip the vacuum line into the fluid and right when you start to hear it "slurp", stop. Follow the level of the fluid as the engine sucks it in and you'll get it entering the engine nice and even and consistent
What you want to do is suck up the seafoam just a little at a time. Slowly dip the vacuum line into the fluid and right when you start to hear it "slurp", stop. Follow the level of the fluid as the engine sucks it in and you'll get it entering the engine nice and even and consistent
It takes me about 30-40 seconds to get half a can into the car. It's nice to have someone to shut it off for you so you can get as much seafoam to sit in the intake ports .
