What is up my dudes. I'm am new here and joined because it seems like most of you guys are pretty knowledgeable and I'm having an issue. So I recently did a LDK swap on my cobalt ss LNF and now I cant seem to get my transmission to go into gear. It will go into gear while it is off but not when it is running. I've bled the clutch line, and all the linkages are straight. I seen someone else have the same issue but never said the prognosis. Throwout bearing maybe bad. Never had issues before. Also saw something about bleeding the throwout bearing line inside the trans but that sounds like a internet myth to me. Any help would be great you guys.

 

Sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging. Cobalt clutch TOB's are hard to bleed. Most will say you need to use a vacuum pump on the shared brake/clutch reservoir to pull the air out completely. When you were attempting to bleed the clutch could you feel the resistance increase in the clutch pedal as you made progress?

I am assuming you are running the same clutch/pressure plate/flywheel, TOB, and master cylinder as worked fine for you before correct? If so I would guess you just don't have all the air out of the line.

 

It's because of where the bleeder valve is. Usually the bleeder is "after" the slave cylinder, but on our cars the slave is inside the bell housing so there's no way to get to it. Even if you use the bleeder valve, you have ~6in of pipe and the slave that you can't get fluid into. That's why there's a "bench bleed" procedure to fill the slave before you install it. It can easily be bled without the bench bleed, though. When you apply vacuum to the reservoir you're letting the "higher" pressure air draw out of the system. Apply vacuum, then SLOW and long presses of the pedal will get the bubbles out. Press the pedal slowly and hold it for five seconds, then release slowly. You're not pushing fluid into the cylinder but rather trying to pull the air out. Fast hard presses is likely to blow out the slave seal. Mine firmed up in like 5 pedal cycles max.

 

Alright guys it's been a while but my buddy accidentally blew out the seal in my throwout that I was installing months ago. So after building the patience back up to tear it all apart again I finally did it. Now I ordered the TOB from zzp installed it made sure there was no leaks and we are all good there . My car starts but still will not go in gear while running. I started it in gear and rolls but wont let me get out of gear. I've tried bleeding is with the pedal. Ive pulled a vacuum on it. Still the same ****. Do I just need to have patience with the vacuum method? I almost 95% positive that there is still air in the system and the throwout bearing isnt moving as needed. Clutch pedal is not as firm as it should be but it isnt super soft either. Since our clutch and brakes work of the same mastercylinder they dont have to be bled first do they? I'm lost and will take any advice. Have not drove my car in 4 and a half years lol keep in mind I'm running on stock clutch, flywheel etc

 

No, the brakes use the same reservoir but they have separate master cylinders so they shouldn't affect each other. Pulling vacuum can take quite a while, and make sure you do the process exactly. Don't be afraid to leave the vacuum on it for a long time without bothering with the pedal, either.

 

Alright so I left the vacuum on there all last night. Woke up and checked it and it had moved the slightest bit and my clutch was soft which I assume means it has pulled most if not all air out. Released the vacuum and pumped my clutch a couple times and it feels kinda soft but I dont remember cause I havent drove the car in years. But i can hear the tob bearing moving. So I decide to take the plastic cap off that's on the tranny to see what it was doing. Its moving and pressing on the pressure plate but doesnt seem to be moving enough. I shouldn't need the tob spacer with the stock clutch should I?

 

I don't want to suggest throwing parts at it, but maybe the master is bad? Did it sit without fluid for a long time?

 

You see that's what I was thinking. Maybe the master has a slight air leak. And yeah it sat for a while without fluid.

 

Ah, I could see the seal drying out. It would likely be a leak on the seal of the piston against the wall of the cylinder.

 

Would need to replace the whole clutch master cylinder then. That a pain in the A$$ job?

 

Not really. I think (haven't done it) the hardest part is reaching it in the passenger compartment. Should be able to google it, would be the same as any other cobalt.

 

Have you tried a two-person bleed? I find them to give me the best pedal feel, so I've essentially ditched my pressure and vacuum bleeders, as I kept having the same issue - pedal felt weak or just didn't clear everything as desired.

Open valve, push clutch pedal slowly down, close valve, pull clutch pedal slowly up. Repeat about 20 times.

 

Yeah I've done the 2 person bleed. Pump it about 30 times, hold it to the floor, crack the line and repeat. I just feel like it's not getting any better.

 

No, that method sucks too, for a handful of reasons. You have to open/close the bleeder as someone else is moving the clutch pedal down/up.

Here's my methodology; I use it for brakes and clutches:

• Who ever is on the bleeder is in charge.
• They open the bleeder and say "down".
• Pedal person slowly pushes the pedal in; when ALMOST to the bottom, says "down".
• Close the bleeder and say "up".
• Pedal person pulls pedal up slowly, and once at the top says "up".
• Repeat until no bubbles are present.

The key is to make sure that the only thing happening while the bleeder valve is open is that the pedal is travelling down. Pumping the pedal beforehand is not necessary.

I don't know if you are or not, but you should also be using a bleeder bottle. They're cheap enough, prevent a mess, and also help you to see when you've bleed enough.

 

The biggest potential problem with the vacuum method is if you don't pull enough vacuum. You need to pull at least -15inHg and get it to hold, I usually shoot for -18inHg to -20inHg to get all the air out and hold that for 5-10mins (unless I actively see bubbles then I'll add more vacuum and hold it longer) then release vacuum pump twice then vacuum again until the pedal feels right.

 

I did the method that ECaulk said and it worked great. Couldnt get it to bleed any other way. Even my little hand pump wouldnt work. I used one of those electric vacuum pumps that you would use for the AC system. Worked like a champ!

 

So took my car to a shop and they couldn't figure out the issue either. Said it's probably a clutch issue. So back apart we go. My next question will be do you guys prefer southbend or clutchmaster. Gonna upgrade while its apart.

 

Southbend for sure.

 

Alright guys so after a lot of time and a **** ton of money, I replaced everything in the clutch system including a stage 3 clutchmasters and aluminum flywheel. It finally goes into gear. Feels so good to drive it. 1 last issue I need to take care of though. Got a light on the dash says service electronic stability control (esc) and esc off. Is there a fuse or relay that has to deal with this.

 

That's likely your alignment at this point. I just finished dropping my trans back in and from dropping the entire subframe and suspension everything was out of wack. Driving in a straight line the ESC would kick on. After getting an alignment this past Tuesday it tracks perfectly and no more ESC light.