I have an 07 black SS/SC that I just recently had to do the slave cylinder on and now it will not engage the clutch. Took it to a shop and the shop said that the pressure plate and slave cylinder are sitting at an angle of eachother. I'll pull it apart and see any of the scratch marks on the slave cylinder or broken fingers on the pressure plate. But other then that I am at a loss. I am super impressed with the car other then this clutch problem

 

Was there any pressure feedback from the clutch pedal at all? I wonder how the shop determined the slave cylinder was at an angle. If that was the case I wonder if it would make some sort of noise by having the slave only loaded on one size which you'd think may cause some binding. My first guess would be that the system wasn't fully bled so you didn't get full travel from the slave. I've once had a pressure plate that didn't evenly disengage the clutch all the way around and it caused high rpm drag but that is different than what your shop is describing.

 

I am assuming that the looked through the inspection cover on the side of the trans. The clutch has some feed back. Then it goes super stiff. I put it in a gear and it won't move. I should be taking it apart this week to find out what has gone wrong. When I first put it back together. I took it for a ride around the block. It was a slow engagement and rough starts. After I pulled it back in my garage it didn't wanna move after that. Most I can do is pull the trans again and hope the slave cylinder didn't fail.

 

That's good information and maybe someone else has experienced that and can chime in. I suppose it could make sense that the one-sided engagement is causing the slave cylinder to bind and that is what causes your stiff pedal feel. Idk what could really cause out-of-square slave cylinder though besides somehow installing it wrong or poorly manufactured. What slave cylinder did you end up going back in with?

 

I'll be honest. It was an off brand slave cylinder as money is tight. I'm not 100% sure what brand it even is. But if it ends up being the problem then lessons learned and I might just get up going for an LNF slave cylinder. I heard they were stronger.

 

Could just be a shitty slave then. Main thing is you know your clutch and pressure plate are good because you didn't replace them. So that narrows it down.

 

Yea. Clutch and pressure plate were not taken off the engine I was almost wondering if I had bent the bearing that the input shaft sits in. I guess I won't know much untill I take it out and have a look. The shop said that the also tried to bleed it properly. Then said that it was leaking out of I think the top of the trans where the clutch pipe connects to the elbow I replaced the clutch pipe that goes from slave cylinder inside the trans when I had it out last time as a buddy broke it taking out the trans.

 

I doubt you messed up the input shaft bearing. What makes you think that?

 

Just the way they said that it was sitting like at an angle with eachother .

 

I just think that would be hard to do

 

if you can see from the photo the slave cylinder does look like it is sideways a little. How ever. When I took off the elbow on top on the trans it looked like the rubber insert inside the elbow was sideways as well , creating a leak for air to get in. So I'm wondering if it is just not bled the correct amount since air would have gotten in. When I had it changed out. I took it for a ride around the block. The clutch was hard to use but still engaged for about. 6 shifts. Then I had nothing. I'm thinking that it ended up sucking in some air and caused the slave cylinder to not push against the pressure plate properly maybe that is why it appears to be sideways. But it just looks like it's the rubber boot part that is sideways. Not pushing properly. I fixed the rubber inside the elbow the best I could. I'm going to put the clutch system back together and try to bleed and see if that does anything for it. If someone else has any ideas or thoughts as to why it looks sideways. Please chime in. Thanks.

 

I can't find a good picture, but this might be similar see how there is a machined lip looks like the slave locates into it, maybe some clearances are off here or something is wonky causing the slave to sit a little cattywampas.

 

I also tried to just blow through the clutch elbow. And I couldn't. I don't know if it has to be pushed in like a value but I'm looking to just replace it. Wondering if they are the same in the SS as in the base modules

 

It does look like in the picture it's just your boot that is off a little and slightly compressed more on the one side. If your TOB wasn't parallel the boot is flexible so it should still have the same gap between bearing and top of boot. Here the boot is pulled away on one side.

Is your transmission off the car right now?

What "rubber inside the elbow" and "clutch elbow" are you referring to?

 

Okay so I figured out what I had done wrong with the clutch on the top of the trans there's a silver metal elbow with the bleeder screw on it. Well it turns out when I took it off the old seal for the clutch pipe got stuck. So when I put in a new clutch pipe (from the slave cylinder to the top on the trans ) the was 2 seals in so it didn't actually seal properly. So I got that figure out. The car shifts and clutches works as it is supposed to. But now I am getting no boost at all. I had a code for the baro sensor come up. I even blocked off the line that controls the bybass valve on the SC and still no boost. On my gauge it runs between 0 and -10 ( I have a PSI not KPa gauge ) when it was usually running between -20 to -30 at idle. I can't find any vacuum leaks or anything wrong. And I'm not 100% sure where the baro sensor is. It's also causing the car to rev hang between shifts. But after everything I have tried. I still have no boost.

 

I think your baro sensor is mounted somewhere in the area above your oil filter housing. It may be used to make boost calculations and that is why your gauge is reading funny. You don't have any codes for MAP sensor do you?

 

There was one. But I cleared it and I don't think it came back. I'll look when the wife brings the car back. Where's the map sensor.

 

Look and see if there is one pending. MAP sensor is on left-hand top side of intake manifold. If it came unplugged or something it can cause your rev hang. Your boost gauge isn't mechanical but relies on MAP sensor.

 

Okay I will check that out. Thanks.

 

So it looks like I have a code for the baro sensor. The MAF sensor and my SC by pass valve

 

I wonder if you damaged some wires or something when removing or installing the trans