Try2k

This is in the very distant future but I figured I'd get some opinions now... I plan on going to 2.7" pulley and 60's with a refined tune sometime soon (after some serious cooling mods) and then have thought about nitrous after that... Is a 35 shot safe to do without any type of other supporting mods? I don't plan on spraying a lot, just occasionally - such as at the track.

Instead, should I just drop to a 2.8" and 60's with the 35 shot to be safer?

I don't want anything really bigger than a 35, seems better on the motor this way. I'm not expecting anything huge just a slight increase in performance.

yellowcobaltss05

i know a friend that runs the 2.7, 60's and a 35 shot and his car loves it!

Try2k

haha finally some hope!

I really want that 2.7 pulley but I'm worried about blowing the motor, I'd love to drop even to a 2.6" but I believe the 2.7 is tons safer... With all the blown motors I am almost leaning towards the 2.8 though - I just didn't know what would be better with the nitrous

btw, do you have any idea of what kind of power he is putting down?

MVP

your car will be fine with the mods you have and a 35 shot. if i were you id invest in a wideband AFR gauge/unit. as always when tuning having the proper AFR is paramount. in a perfect world you want to see about 12:1 AFR when under boost. if you jump upto a 50 shot id suggest droping the timing about 2 degrees when the nitrous is activated. and for every 50HP worth of spray from there on out take away another 2 degrees just to be safe. Having the proper spark plugs if important too. ZEX makes a kick ass set of plugs for running nitrous. always run premimuf fuel or better when spraying. another thing id suggest is to get a window switch you want to keep the nitrous activation starting RPM above 2500 and cut the nitrous off about 500 RPM before your rev limiter just to be safe. and its always nice to have a bottle warmer and a purge valve. make sure every time you have your bottle filled you have a filter on the bottle so that you lessen your chances of getting a bottle of dirty nitrous. dirty nitrous (usually caused by having too much sulfer in automotive grade nitrous can be detrimental to your engine and its components.) the sulfer is added to automotive grade nitrous to keep silly kids from huffing it. last but not least a direct port nitrous system is by far the safest way to introduce nitrous into your engine. however, most people on a budget cant afford a direct port system so if thats the case just go with a single nozzle wet shot. the least safest way to introduce nitrous into your engine is what is commonly refered to as a dry shot. a dry shot relies completly on your cars fuel injectors to supply the proper amount of fuel where as a wet shot does not it gets its fuel from your fuel rail. dry shots are especially bad for a car thats already boosted. the nice thing about your car is that theres a fuel test port right on the fuel rail you can tap into for your fuel supply. just remove the schrader valve from the fuel test port screw in your fuel line from your nitrous kit and bingo there it is. no need to splice into fuel lines. im sure there is a few things that im forgetting to tell you but there are a FEW on here who know what they're talking about when it comes to running nitrous and running it on these cars. zinner is one of them and of course myself. if you have any questions feel free to ask. witt seems to have a good working knowledge about all this too. good luck

yellowcobaltss05

he is probably putting down a tad bit over 300whp with the spray and i think he told me he dynoed 270whp with the 2.7 and he doesnt even have a header or downpipe yet!