I explained what to do?

 

oh yeah. haha sorry. people distracted me. so all i need to do is go in the tune and take out a few degrees? and then get it on the dyno and adjust the afr via the jets?

 

Right, normal rule of thumb is 2 degrees of timing per 100hp I believe, but I'd work off of 2 degrees per 50 hp until you find that you can run more. Knock it down a bit and make sure it's happy, then fine-tune the jetting until your A/F's don't change when you start spraying, or just drop slightly richer.

 

well i'm gonna be spraying a 75 shot. so should i start out with 3degrees?

 

Pretty much, yeah. Depending on your mods, local weather, fuel mix, lots of little factors contribute to how well the car will handle the faster, hotter combustion. Start a bit on the safe side and go up from there.

 

mods are 3" intake, header w/ 3" collector, 3" dp, 3" catback, 2.8, 60s, ottp h/e, 90/10 meth/water@10gph.

already at 273/250. i'm looking to hit atleast 340whp

 

Hey I might see you out at the track this coming season hopefully you get your idea to work

 

A 75 shot should be no problem. And since you're running meth, you should be fine as far as detonation, still able to run a good deal of timing on bottle without having to run higher octane fuel.

As far as the power is concerned, mid 300's should be do-able with that mod list and a 75 shot, but thats a lot of power to whack the stock pistons with. Good luck with it, don't mess up

 

were you there at all in '09?? i was there quite often. practically every test n tune, midnight, and bracket race..

how does tuning nitrous with methanol work as far as afrs and timing is concerned?

 

I've never done it on my car, but in theory, it's the same. You need to have your a/f's dialed in on meth anyway. The much higher effective octane will let you run more timing than a setup without meth, thereby making more power. How much will take trial and error honestly. The process is the same as tuning the car normally, except for the fact that fuel adjustments for nitrous have to be made through jetting.

 

so since the afrs are already righ twhere they should be on the methanol. the tuning process for the nitrous shouldn't be effected at all?

 

More or less, yeah.

 

okay

 

No I wasn't out last year but I plan on goin a couple time next season and see what the white lighting will run

 

I just have to say this. If you're using the WOT box, TURN THE NO LIFT SHIFT OFF. If you're spraying when that thing cuts ignition,. I learned this the hard way and melted two valves. I also was using a bad switch but still.

 

if you read how i have this set up.....you'll know that you just wasted a post haha

 

Your setup ftl

 

iirc...yours, failed...didn't it?

 

If i hadn't read your post. . . . . i wouldn't have posted about the wot box. . .

I'll be waiting for your re-build thread.

 

so. tell me, if i've got it wired up to stop spraying when i push the clutch in. what makes you think it'll be spraying when i shift???

 

Because the lines aren't magically empty when the circuit is cut. The nitrous (and most importantly the fuel) will continue to spray for a very brief amount of time even after being shut off. When the ignition starts again after being suddenly cut by the wot box, you can probably count on a backfire.

Buuuuut it sounds more like you want to learn the hard way so i'll let it be.

 

no to deter from the subject but EX are you tuning yourself

 

Based on the design of the WOT box anyway, there is fuel spraying while the ignition is cut.

I agree with you though, it's not the safest setup, but it's his car.

 

no i won't be tuning my car. area47 will be tuning it. for like the....3rd or 4th time

 

The difference is, is that THAT fuel is spraying normally, into the combustion chamber. The fuel / n20 mix is being sprayed through the air intake.