slowion2

that will take exponentially longer to get up to temp than a real bottle heater will. I tried it many moon ago, was ok for the 50 bucks it cost total for everything but a real one works worlds better.

Fatalis

Heating it via air conditioner doesnt work, unless its there forever..

You definitely need a bottle heater. The pressure drops fast and it literally returns to stock slowness. Ive done this plenty of times, you only get two good sprays, its all downhil from there.

IonNinja

yup...

I still need to get mine up and running, I installed it and couldn't get the relay to click over but haven't had time to go back and check my wiring. I hate relays...

oh Fatalis if you want I've got this Zex bottle warmer if you wanna give it a try...didn't do anything for me but if you wanna give it a try its yours.

c0baltic

ok since i am new to the "wet" kit i am not sure how to set up the jets.. you need jets in both the fuel and the n20 correct.. also what size do you use.. if i use a .50 n20 do i use a .50 fuel jet also??? or do they have to be diffrent.. please i need some input

-drew

zinner

The fuel and nitrous jets will never be the same size. Nitrous will be bigger, follow the directions on your kit for the jet sizes.

c0baltic

never got a kit.. made my own set up from my old dry kit

-drew

Doc

not sure if this helps, or if its needed, its the stage 3 nitrous diagram

rollingboostedss

no offence but Zex is not for the win. I never like there set up's at all I just never liked them to begin with. but if you know what you are doing as far as what goes where I would recommend a NX system that is what we run and there bottle heaters our pretty nice but in the end a torch does wonders for you.

IonNinja

what brand nozzle do you have and what jets do you have? if you're using a Zex nozzle and zex jets then look on the zex website under the 4 cyl wet kit instructions, they list the nitrous & fuel jettings for a 55,65 and 75 shot.

Also Zex is not a bad kit, its cleaner and more simple than a traditional setup. In the end you get the same result. The only thing I didn't like is that when I was having wiring issues there wasn't **** out there to refer to for help. Everything pointed to traditional setups...

Other than that, their base kit, purge, and window switch have treated me just fine. For a bottle heater I recommend going elsewhere...

turbo06ss

It takes longer to heat the bottle up with a bottle heater then it does with the car heater. I have been doing this for around 5 years and it work great. When you spray large amounts of nitrous you need a hot box. Hot water is the best way to heat a bottle. It give the bottle a even heat and not just around the middle. That is why I say use your heater in your car. Wrape it up in a blanket and turn it on. It will get the bottle to around 1200psi in about 10 mins.

spaz

dude I think you have some air in your nitrous bottle.was it purged before you got it filled.
next time they fill it make sure they purge it.

lil_kano

so where ever you have your bottle mounted, you just turn on the heat full blast and leave it? even if it is in ur trunk?

IonNinja

I'm pretty sure you need to take the bottle out and put it under the vents down by your feet.

if u leave it in the trunk and just put your heater on full blast it wont do ****...trust me I tried.

I would recommend putting your bottle in warm water to up the pressure but of course none of this stuff works like a good heater because u need to maintain that pressure and once u start spraying your pressure starts dropping.

06blackg85ss

iTrader: (1)

quick question where did you get the tach signal from for the window switch? I"m putting the nitrous back in the cobalt next friday and thats the only one I can't figure out

Delta2.2

dang this nitrous thing is really complicated. im prolly gonna need help when getting this later on in the summer lol.

lil_kano

Do a quick search. I started a post about it and got help from ionninja. itz in the 2.2 section. itz realy easy.

IonNinja

I think since our ignition setup is slightly different the wire I chose won't work for you...which was the tan wire coming off the ICM plug.

Based on the raptor shift light install thread though, on the LSJ I would try the brown/white wire coming from cylinder #1 ignition coil...not sure which cylinder mode to set it to though but I bet once u get the tach signal read that'll be easy to configure. Possible 1 cyl mode...

06blackg85ss

iTrader: (1)

ok cool thanks man, sorry haven't touched a cobalt in a few months since mines been down... but now everything is back together so full speed ahead

lil_kano

Its the same wiring. You tap into the tan wire(make sure to pull the wire out of the loom. This is why I couldn't find it because the color changed on the already exposed wire from the heat). and set to 2 cycle or 2 cyclinder (thats what the zex book says). I think our ICM reads our engines 2 cylinders at a time. Thats the only explanation i can tink of.

IonNinja

actually on the 2.0 they're setup is different...they have the coil on plug setup like the 07 Cobalts instead of the big plate with the ICM plug

I know they're slightly different because when I tried connecting my raptor shift light up like the LSJ guys it didn't work right...

lil_kano

Yea that is true. I though you were talking only about the 2.2s though.

COBALT SS LOVER

so what did you guys come up with? i want to hook up a shift lite what is the best way to go? any help would be apreciated

IonNinja

oh man the pain is coming back! lol

just thought I'd point out that the MSD switch I was attempting to hook up was fried and thats why I couldn't get it to work. Switched to a Zex and been problem free...

anyway, good job with the search...now perform the same one in the how-to section. there is a how-to on the Raptor shift light in that section that tells you how to hook it up on the LSJ.