1.89 ain't that great for RWD... but if it was on street tires.. that's very respectable. As for over 300whp on a stock setup..... Not easy at all... I couldn';t get the car to do it no matter what... only got to 296whp and the car gave up lol.
But anyway... enough with the arguing... at least the guys own GM cars... good enough for me (plus I'd rather own a GTO, but payments suck)

 

F that car show. The Cobalts are banned from the show because a couple Cobalts peeled out of the parking lot last week. So that's it for me and that place. I'll be at the East Granby Car Show on Mondays.

No doubt.

 

ya, that was a bone stock run, showroom conditions so stock tires

I used to cut 1.4's in my old 2003 cobra running mickeys

 

ok im new to the whole cobalt ss scene... i've had plenty of fast AWD turbo cars and i'm trying my hand at FWD SC right now.

Here's my list of mods as of right now:

2.5" pulley
60lb injectors
SS Header
2.5" GMPP Exhaust
Aftermarket Clutch
Aftermarket Axles
PCM (not sure how great the tune is)
Ported Stock Blower
B&M Short Shifter
Fujita CAI
uhhhh i think that's it as of right now, can't think of anything else...

just wondering what kind of HP i should be expecting... and what else should be done? What do you guys recommend for tuning? also what other little bolt-ons would you recommend whether it be for cooling or just anything to help me get the most out of it as possible. Thanks.

 

Go back to my first post on this thread, read everything I listed, do all that to your ride, and you'll be fine. Of course, you'll be broke too. But the ride will be fast and still have the stock super.

 

yes best on the irs was a 1.61

 

26x11.5x16

 

hm...interesting thread. Someone by me claimed to have 300whp with only stg2, intake, exhaust, and ported blower..... Funny how he lost to me with only my 3.0", stock injectors, and I/E.

 

Thats usually how it works. It's the fanboi's and the people who talk the most **** who are usually the slowest lol

 

Sho nuff

 

Being a fellow DSMer I'd like to take this opportunity to kick you in the nuts for even asking that question. Go dyno the thing and don't e-bench-dyno, you should know better. People like you make the rest of us look bad.

 

bro i would say its making at LEAST 300WHP.

if you do a turbo swap with a 16g id say expect 400WHP and no less.

 

Meth
Dual pass
Cobra or Ca heat exhcnger
then HP tuning soft ware for tuning.

 

Without dual pass, aftermarket/cobra h/e, and meth injection he is NOT making more than 300whp because he's creating too much heat. Meth will allow the charge to cool greatly, allowing more timing, which would set him up to hit near 300whp. Then, with the stock blower, his #4 will be at risk of going , turbo less likely tho.

 

Ummm, I think CRX was being a smart ass man.

 

ah i guess. i'm too lazy to do that right now. i was asking for a guesstimate, and i really wanted to know what kind of cooling and tuning **** to use... no more dsmlink for me.

16Gs are wack btw.

GT35r and up thank you.

Best ET with my Talon was 11.01 @ 132 with a 1.8 60'

anywho, thanks to the people who can be mature and actually answer a question. so i'm taking it the #4 piston is a problem in these? so i should tune it to 10.8-11 afr to offset that?

 

Yes, people have been tuning for that afr to try to offset the problem with #4.

The problem is, no one knows exactly what the problem with #4 is. It is the last piston on the fuel rail and oil flow path. The problem could be with the head. No one is sure right now. Normally though it has only been blowing under high heat/boost. I would suggest not going with to small a pulley, lots of cooling mods, and anything you can do to help your engine flow better. Also, the stock heads rather suck, specially on the exhaust side.

 

Well, good job CRX LOL. I didn't feel like reading 6 pages of stuff prior to my post to get the feel of the thread.

#4 is a mystery like InfinityzeN said. But all of his suggestions for fending it off are pretty much a necessity below a 2.9 pulley, mandatory for a 2.6/2.5.

 

The problem is clearly the fuel system but no one wants to believe that. Being the last on the returnless rail it gets no fuel. Everyone offsets this by running an overall retardedly rich mixture which in the end does nothing but make them feel good about themselves because it still fails to address the problem. They'll keep saying it's "heat" that blows the motor and I'll keep laughing as they granade from lean detonation.

 

Couple questions, then. Hypothetically speaking, as long as the rail is pressurized, shouldn't the fuel be evenly distributed among all cylinders? OR...if it's not fully pressurized, are people reaching the limits of the fuel pump without knowing it? Could a higher-flowing pump keep the rail pressurized? I don't know much about the fuel system in general, so if I'm way off, feel free to "educate" me.

 

Well there are people working on a couple of fixes for the fuel rail right now. One was an entry to the rail at each end and the other entered between 2 and 3. Also I believe someone was working on designing a return fuel system.

 

I'll explain when I'm not on a PSP and can actually type.

 

Yeah, I know the return system is in the works, and *should* solve some of the problems people are experiencing. But they do say there is more than one way to skin a cat.

 

The problem is if the fuel rail is too small and the injectors too large, the pressure will dip when the injectors pulse (even more so when the pulses overlap) because the rail doesn't flow enough volume for the fuel to pressurize it again.

I think the reason Cylinder 4 keeps blowing with the 60# injectors is because it is the last in the line and cylinder 3 pulses before and during the time 4 does resulting in lower fuel pressure for that injector and less fuel for the cylinder. Assuming the stock pump can meet the volume requirements, a larger fuel rail (and possibly fuel line) may fix the issue. Personally I would rather dump the stock pump, fuel rail and line for a Walbro 255lph pump with an Aeromotive fuel rail and boost referenced regulator running all -6AN line and add a return line.

 

why would you guys wait till someone designs a fuel return system. tap the end of your rail for a -6AN fitting, pick up an aeromotive 1:1 RRFPR and run the return line back to the gas filler neck. melted #4 piston problem solved for under $300.