Installed Cobra Heat Exchanger!!!Lots of pics!!!
well im taking mine off as we speak. I went down to the local radiator shop and they are making me a custom one right now with brackets included already welded on. The core is twice as thick as the cobra and the unit is overal 7 inches longer with 5 inches more core length. I cant beleive the guys were so cool.
He goes, you want it tonight, I was like hell yeah, he said, well ill call ya in a couple of ours, i have a core right here.
plus its going to be prettier then the black too
He goes, you want it tonight, I was like hell yeah, he said, well ill call ya in a couple of ours, i have a core right here.
plus its going to be prettier then the black too
Last edited by BOOSSTED 06; Apr 15, 2008 at 12:31 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
well im taking mine off as we speak. I went down to the local radiator shop and they are making me a custom one right now with brackets included already welded on. The core is twice as thick as the cobra and the unit is overal 7 inches longer with 5 inches more core length. I cant beleive the guys were so cool.
He goes, you want it tonight, I was like hell yeah, he said, well ill call ya in a couple of ours, i have a core right here.
plus its going to be prettier then the black too
He goes, you want it tonight, I was like hell yeah, he said, well ill call ya in a couple of ours, i have a core right here.
plus its going to be prettier then the black too
I will give the guys that are thinking about doing this a tip.
1. When you get to the part where you are removing the old hoses off of the water pump and the stock h/e, don't even try to slide the factory clamps down the hose because gm uses some kind of glue to hold the clamps on the hose that could hold the world together if it had to. So you need to get a pair of pliers and squeeze the clamp but the hose will still not come off, so then you need to get a flat head screw driver and slide it under the hose and work it around to bust the seal loose.
ok for those who bled the system with out dual pass/option b [i have stock system with cobra h/e] i know that there is the bolt on top of the stock h/e but i was wondering if this is how it is done.
1.) leave the bolt off the stock h/e and fill at the filler neck while leaving the filler neck cap off until it overflows from the bleeder hole then put the bolt back in the stock h/e until bubbles are basically gone.
OR
2.) remove the bleeder bolt and fill from the filler neck and replace the filler neck cap until the level goes down, then repeat until it flows a steady stream out of the bleeder hole then when it does replace the bolt then fill until no bubbles are seen from the filler neck.
OR
3.) dont bother with the bleeder bolt and just fill at the neck until no bubbles
now i know it takes forever for the level to go down using option 1 and 3 but it seems to be the way people have gone but i tried option 2 before i had to give up and pick up the old lady from class and everytime i filled it and replaced the cap the level in the filler neck went down ALOT faster then when leaving the filler neck cap off with the bleeder bolt off also.
now basically this is what i am asking. which is the best method [if any] out of the three and how much more coolant will it need to refill the system? i have gone thru about a 1/2 gallon of dexcool and still no signs of coolant from the bleeder.
1.) leave the bolt off the stock h/e and fill at the filler neck while leaving the filler neck cap off until it overflows from the bleeder hole then put the bolt back in the stock h/e until bubbles are basically gone.
OR
2.) remove the bleeder bolt and fill from the filler neck and replace the filler neck cap until the level goes down, then repeat until it flows a steady stream out of the bleeder hole then when it does replace the bolt then fill until no bubbles are seen from the filler neck.
OR
3.) dont bother with the bleeder bolt and just fill at the neck until no bubbles
now i know it takes forever for the level to go down using option 1 and 3 but it seems to be the way people have gone but i tried option 2 before i had to give up and pick up the old lady from class and everytime i filled it and replaced the cap the level in the filler neck went down ALOT faster then when leaving the filler neck cap off with the bleeder bolt off also.
now basically this is what i am asking. which is the best method [if any] out of the three and how much more coolant will it need to refill the system? i have gone thru about a 1/2 gallon of dexcool and still no signs of coolant from the bleeder.
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