And it's seems to be getting worse.

On toruqe app I can see the timing going from normal to like single digits or even -6 or around there sometimes.

It bucks when it does this. Very annoying. I know the torque management does this but should it do it that much?

It runs smooth when the car is cold like when it's in open loop....

Lead sme to believe it's some sensor. I've cleaned the tb and maf and new plugs

Anything else in in torque I could use to debug it?

It's really annoying me. Maybe primary o2 sensor??? Map?? Something...

 

Trim, mods, tune, CEL?

Did you turn the the tb while cleaning? You may have ruined it if you did.

What you provided is almost useless.

 

GM stage 2
aem filter/airbox mod whatever
no cels
what do you mean turn the tb?

 

btw it did it before i cleaned the TB. i cleaned it to try and get rid of this issue

 

You have GMS2 tune on there as well? Have you checked your Air/fuel ratio (LSJ cars have stock wideband correct?)

 

Wish it had a wideband in the primary stock. It's a narrow band and just by watching the voltage it's running rich all the time. 10-11:1 but a narrow band isn't reliable :/

If it had a wideband it would def give me a lot of insight. It loses some pep it feels like when it enters closed loop. When it cold it feels pepper and not just because of cooler air... Just crusiing the exhaust is deeper and feels better part throttle. I might just throw a new o2 in there to see if it helps a narrow band shouldn't be expensive.

 

You know who did the tune for sure?

 

99%

 

I put a new fuel filter on and on first drive it seems better. We'll see tho

 

Keep throwing parts at it.

You'll fix it eventually. Right?

I get people trying to save some money by working on their own cars but the majority would be way better off paying a professional.

Source - Autobody tech that's seen some DIY ****.

 

all this **** needs to be replaced anyways

a mechanik would just do the same thing and charge me 4x what it actually costs

 

Putting on a new fuel filter isn't really a bad idea as it is a cheap easy thing to do and it can only help. I would think if fuel delivery was your problem you would lean out and lose power in the upper RPM range. I know you mentioned you had an OBD scanner that works with your phone. Have you checked the long term and short term fuel trims?

 

He means move the throttle plate

 

car runs well except for this little issue. idles perfectly at ~800rpm

it seems to do this hesitaton between shifts and bogging when its very hot. it was ~100f here last couple of days and city driving in the heat is where i feel it the most.

really annoys me, i'm used to driving ls (4th gen) v8 cars and they run smooth as glass all the time... even with 200k miles.

my old man's 1999 197k mile ls1 camaro runs smoother than my 07 cobalt. some of that is just because its a 4banger but seriously it shouldn't have all these studders and ****

 

V8's are inherently balanced. They'll always be smoother than an I4.

Have you tried cleaning your maf? I had a small misfire around 3000rpms with light throttle. Ended up just being oil from my Filter on my maf.

 

yeah i know but it still shouldn't stumble like this.

i did clean the maf with some maf cleaner.

the air filter on it is pretty old... and shitty i have a new one i guess i should try and put it on and see what happens.

 

Good idea. Might as well get new maintenance items. Have you checked all your vacuum lines? These cars are getting older and rubber can break down.

 

i replaced the vac line from that goes to the bypass on the s/c. the other ones look fine

the vac on the gauge looks normal to me and it never fluctuates.

 

Have you checked your fuel trims yet? That will be a good indicator to at least get you pointed in the right direction as far as diagnosing the cause.

 

yeah i did the ltft was -3% iirc
the stft was . something. i'll look in a few mins and update post. kid has my phone

 

Ltft says -5.47 an after I took a drive to the gym which is about 2 miles it says -7% now

 

the ltft bounces around from -7 to +8 and just bounces around

the stft bounces from -7 to +12

this is all while driving

 

I think the new air filter fixed it. The ltft is much better now it was sitting 0 to 3.3 but 90% of the time it was 0.3 or 1.6

Seems to run better.

 

Eh was doing it a lot less but kinda still.... But it completely shut off driving down the road won't start...

Won't start no spark... Can't get sensor until Tuesday ug

 

change the crank position actuators