So i noticed my problem right after i got my stage 2 done its kinda weird, If i accelerate hard to near redline then let off or shift the clutch kicks back and seems hard and it grabs hard when you release the pedal and it engages much sooner than usual. I can also replicate it by holding in the clutch revving it up to near redline, then letting it iddle back to idle then releasing the pedal and it does the same thing, every time it does this i easily resolve the problem by pumping the clutch 3 or 4 times and its right back to normal. I'm stumped on this and so is my GM dealer any ideas i think its either a slave or throw out bearing problem or air in the lines, i just hope its not a cracked bell housing or fucked clutch which equals no warranty. Also my brake fluid/ clutch reservoir has never gone down and my clutch has never slipped or chattered just an engagement problem. Somebody please help

 

bump

 

I don't get what you are saying. If I could understand your english a bit better I might be able to help you out.

 

That's the way the clutch's self adjustment works. Basically, the pressure plate is working normally and there isn't a problem. If you want it fixed, get the dealer to blame the slave cylinder and replace that under warranty. While they are in there, get them to put in an aftermarket clutch. You'll just have to pay the difference between re/re slave cylinder and re/re flywheel and supply them with an aftermarket flywheel and clutch kit. Also, after this is done, you'll be bleeding the clutch line for a week since you have to bleed it from the reservoir.

Good luck.

 

I'd say your slave is on it's way out. Same basic thing mine did back awhile ago before it gave out.

 

does the clutch sometimes or always feel like it's an on/off thing and there's very little engagement area?

 

just does it after its revved right up

thanks for the info

 

Double clutching it on second is a faster remedy, just be fast with the foot. mine was doing the same thing, and it ended up wrecking a tranny and engine mount. and the majority of dealers will never find this problem unless they drive the **** out of your car, and they wont do that, without saying that its been abused and denying you any warranty

 

aw damn mine just started this crap last week too. I also noticed my brake fluid was low and there is also black **** in the reservoir. I figured it was either the slave or the master cylinder.

 

Mine does the exact same thing! Dealer could not duplicate the problem. Go figure huh.

 

mine does the same thing after a couple hard pulls right up to 7000rpm, and only if i go right to 7000, it wont do it if i only got to 6500rpm. i beleive its to do with the centrifical force on the self adjusting pressure plate.

has anyone had this problem with a stock clutch and installed an aftermarket clutch and had the problem resolved??? ive been trying to find this out to confirm my theory, but nobody has answerred me yet.

 

Same here.. I notice more under hard decel coming into a turn hot with a 4-3 shift.

 

mine did it again today, this time i was took off from the light slow, through the intersection in first gear then pinned it. i had my foot just resting on the pedal (yea i know its bad) and as soon as i hit the throttle i felt the pedal go down and get hard. no clue, kinda throws a loop into my theory.

 

I'm glad you did this, I've been discussing this most of the day with a fellow owner, that was the test we were going to try this weekend.

Here's our theory, once you get clutch wear, which didn't have new, the diaphragm fingers adjusts out, away and closer to TO. Let's say that some wear translates to say (just guessing) 0.015" diaphragm closer to TO. At high rpm, seems to be greater than 6,500, the centrifugal force clamps down or something makes the diaphragm take up/get closer to flywheel leaving that 0.015" space (or some lever multiplication) between the TO and fingers. The TO has no reason to follow the diaphragm. So when you press the clutch you have to "take up" the 0.015" of nothing happening with a soft pedal before work is being down. In my case I'm in decel so it's easy(ier) to come out of 4th and with little or no clutch disengagement it's a bitch to find 3rd. After a couple of pumps and lower rpm AND oil replenishment down the tiny hole in the MC I once again have full pedal. Similar/same going up. Last night bleeding new MC and the delay in make up fluid is the basis for this hypothesis..

My buddy's car happens on the way up because he winds all the way up as I do not. But I run the rpm up in 4th on the straight and downshifts. Plus I run longer tracks than he does so I spend more time on the top of 4th.

Haven't figured out a solution yet because I wasn't sure which end was causing it. Can our TO stand full time contact/rotation? If so then solution may be residual pressure valve to automatically take up this slop or weakening diaphragm.. It didn't do it new.

poking in the dark, so flame suit on..

 

the TOB is designed to be in contact all the time, it has a spring under the boot in it to keep the bearing against the fingers. to further flaw your theory, centrifical force will pull the fingers on the clutch away from the flywheel, not towards. its designed like this so you get centrifical force putting more pressure on the disc (centerforce takes this further and has weights on the fingers on many models to further this affect). also, we have a self adjusting clutch, a special designed pressure plate that will compensate for wear so the pedal release hight stays in the same place till the clutch is almost worn out.

i have 2 theories. 1) the self adjusting pressure plate cant take the centrifical force of 7000rpm and it starts losing its adjustment, going to the "worn out" side of the adjustment, causing the fingers to move towards the flywheel and pedal to get closer to the floor.
2) hydralic system design flaw- its possible that if the fingers are moving in on the pressure plate from centrifical force due to the nature of the self adjusting design, that the spring is keeping the release bearing on the fingers but the brake fluid doesnt get pulled through, creating a vacuum. when you step on the clutch it now must overcome this vacuum in the system and pressurize it, meaning the pedal must travel further because of the extra fluid it must push. upon releasing the pedal it feels hardbecause the pressure plate is back were it usualy is and there is a bit of extra fluid in the line (not enough was relased back to the resovoir) creating a bit of a hard pedal at the top. after a few pumps it goes back to normal.

still wanting to know if anyone has experianced this with an aftermarket clutch

 

ok so I was using mechanical linkage logic..

mechanically we've got some movement displacing some fluid some direction that is correcting itself once the rpms come down due to time or reduced rpm resolving the issue until those circumstances repeat.

Of all racers I've talked to tell me that they wind up going back to stock parts.

 

Yupp, Mine is doing it with a Spec Stage 2+ clutch. Check your fluid reservoir for me, is there a bunch of black **** in yours? Cause mine is full of black ****, I don't know what it is. Whatever it is, it looks like its going to be expensive. I figure its the slave cylinder/throwout bearing. I'm not paying to have this tranny pulled a 2nd time in 40K miles.

I figured to hell with it, I'm going to test drive a 350Z and a G35 tomorrow and see which one I like better, then I'm trading this POS off.

 

Does anybody know what the diameter of the clutch master cylinder is? And can you adjust the pedal to MS distance? I wanna try something... I had an interesting thing happen while running at Fontana last weekend..