The Clutch ISSUES continue
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Joined: 11-19-07
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From: SAc town CA
The Clutch ISSUES continue
OK, so i bought my car brand new off lot in 07.
After 20K miles my clutch went bad, I thought that was pretty fast but ok ill just upgrade it.
I put in an Exedy stage 3 clutch and lightened flywheel. Had it install was amazing.
This last week my car hit 40K and some change. it is now sitting on the street not going anywhere. Why you might ask?
over the period of 2 weeks (one week it wasnt even being used) the clutch is gone. Completely I was driving done the freeway cruising in 5th rpms about 3K,
It then jumped to red line and I ended up on the side of the road. not going anywhere.
PLEASE PLEASE, I cant beg enough. Some one give me an Idea of how this could happen and what I need to do to fix it.
Thank you.
After 20K miles my clutch went bad, I thought that was pretty fast but ok ill just upgrade it.
I put in an Exedy stage 3 clutch and lightened flywheel. Had it install was amazing.
This last week my car hit 40K and some change. it is now sitting on the street not going anywhere. Why you might ask?
over the period of 2 weeks (one week it wasnt even being used) the clutch is gone. Completely I was driving done the freeway cruising in 5th rpms about 3K,
It then jumped to red line and I ended up on the side of the road. not going anywhere.
PLEASE PLEASE, I cant beg enough. Some one give me an Idea of how this could happen and what I need to do to fix it.
Thank you.
the clutch master/slave cylinders as far as I know are nonadjustable so it's not likely any of that. IF the slave cylinder was getting stuck (again off the top of my head not knowing which design the cobalt uses) if it was bent, clogged or incorrectly installed that would certainly lead to this problem. Broken clutch hub springs, Flywheel that wasn't correctly machined or surfaced. Lightened factory flywheel? You do realize that they are pretty thin already...
Your not gonna wanna hear this from me, but my clutch is barely broken it at 20K miles and I am not easy on my car. Practices that cause failure such as resting your foot even ever so slightly on the clutch pedal, long durations of depressing the clutch at a light or stop instead of clutch out in neutral, gear skipping (1, 2,4,5 or combinations that skip gears especially when theres more than 2k rpm difference) Abrupt engagements far above idle, even at the track my launch is done at 1800 with a smooth engagement while feeding power. Chances are quite likely you just haven't learned to correctly drive a manual transmission car.
All this assuming this problem has been ever increasing. If it was abrupt then I'd bet money your pressure plate has come loose.
Your not gonna wanna hear this from me, but my clutch is barely broken it at 20K miles and I am not easy on my car. Practices that cause failure such as resting your foot even ever so slightly on the clutch pedal, long durations of depressing the clutch at a light or stop instead of clutch out in neutral, gear skipping (1, 2,4,5 or combinations that skip gears especially when theres more than 2k rpm difference) Abrupt engagements far above idle, even at the track my launch is done at 1800 with a smooth engagement while feeding power. Chances are quite likely you just haven't learned to correctly drive a manual transmission car.
All this assuming this problem has been ever increasing. If it was abrupt then I'd bet money your pressure plate has come loose.
Last edited by army_greywolf; May 23, 2010 at 01:13 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Toronto, ON
the clutch master/slave cylinders as far as I know are nonadjustable so it's not likely any of that. IF the slave cylinder was getting stuck (again off the top of my head not knowing which design the cobalt uses) if it was bent, clogged or incorrectly installed that would certainly lead to this problem. Broken clutch hub springs, Flywheel that wasn't correctly machined or surfaced. Lightened factory flywheel? You do realize that they are pretty thin already...
Your not gonna wanna hear this from me, but my clutch is barely broken it at 20K miles and I am not easy on my car. Practices that cause failure such as resting your foot even ever so slightly on the clutch pedal, long durations of depressing the clutch at a light or stop instead of clutch out in neutral, gear skipping (1, 2,4,5 or combinations that skip gears especially when theres more than 2k rpm difference) Abrupt engagements far above idle, even at the track my launch is done at 1800 with a smooth engagement while feeding power. Chances are quite likely you just haven't learned to correctly drive a manual transmission car.
All this assuming this problem has been ever increasing. If it was abrupt then I'd bet money your pressure plate has come loose.
Your not gonna wanna hear this from me, but my clutch is barely broken it at 20K miles and I am not easy on my car. Practices that cause failure such as resting your foot even ever so slightly on the clutch pedal, long durations of depressing the clutch at a light or stop instead of clutch out in neutral, gear skipping (1, 2,4,5 or combinations that skip gears especially when theres more than 2k rpm difference) Abrupt engagements far above idle, even at the track my launch is done at 1800 with a smooth engagement while feeding power. Chances are quite likely you just haven't learned to correctly drive a manual transmission car.
All this assuming this problem has been ever increasing. If it was abrupt then I'd bet money your pressure plate has come loose.
so that in bold meaning what? dumping the clutch? I'm just learning to drive stick and sometimes if I'm approaching a light and it turns to green suddenly and I say put it into 2nd and the car bucks forward (not too hard) because the RPM isnt spot on with road speed am I damaging it?
The name of the game with clutch life is smooth but quick engagements with as little power as possible until the clutch is actually engaged.
99 percent of every stop I make, leaving that light means the clutch is fully engaged before the engine reaches 1500 rpms. You should shift off the power, there is a algorithm in your car's computer designed to match the RPMs to the next shift as long as your off the throttle. The name of the game is to produce the least amount of slippage under load as you can for the clutch.
As far as your problem, I have thought about this, I believe the pressure plate has come loose or you glazed the clutch from overheating. It isn't your fluid, if you had a leak your Check Brake Fluid would come on. Meh, someone chime in that has a better idea, it has my curiosity.
99 percent of every stop I make, leaving that light means the clutch is fully engaged before the engine reaches 1500 rpms. You should shift off the power, there is a algorithm in your car's computer designed to match the RPMs to the next shift as long as your off the throttle. The name of the game is to produce the least amount of slippage under load as you can for the clutch.
As far as your problem, I have thought about this, I believe the pressure plate has come loose or you glazed the clutch from overheating. It isn't your fluid, if you had a leak your Check Brake Fluid would come on. Meh, someone chime in that has a better idea, it has my curiosity.
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