If there is exposed wire or breaks in it

 

i dont recall if they affected his boosting. but if a sensor considered important by the ecu isnt providing data correctly then it will go into protect mode to limit damage

 

No breaks or exposed wires. Checked all the fuses they all seem to be fine. Thinking about taking it to zzp I can't figure it out.

 

First place I'd likely start (is a log, but) in your situation would be with to get the correct o-rings on those map sensors. Those blue o-rings are notoriously problematic and prone to leaking on the cobalts. Many many threads discussing this. Report back once the maps are cleaned and correct size o-rings are installed.

These.... O-RING 3 Bar Map Sensor 12626998

 

Thank you for the info new o rings are ordered. If this solves my problem I owe you man. It's been such a hassle

 

I swear to **** if its his issue i'm gonna be flipping tables. He claims no boost leaks

 

There is no boost leaks..

 

One of my codes was p0101 and yes, reduced boost 5psi and backfiring lol

 

What was the problem? You have a boost leak?

 

Did u check the signal to your maf? I had that issue a few months back ppl clamed boost leak but my rpd said different. I took a volt tester took the maf out turned the key (didnt start the car). Put the volt tester in the 5 holes and the yellow single wire had no connection. So i got a new maf of ebay and bam no more reduced boost.

 

He had a bad fuse, I forget which fuse it was thou

 

This was my fuse that needed replacing. I also had the O2 sensor and Evap solenoid going haywire.

 

Did you use a soapy mix on all the connectors? Including map sensor, brake booster nipple, drop the bumper check intercooler connections, the intercooler its self, etc etc

 

Yes I did all of that and also took it to a guy I know who is a mechanic cause I couldn't find any leaks and he said there was no boost leaks. He cleaned all the map sensors also and still nothing.

I checked that fuse and it's fine.

 

Check the wiring on the both map sensors, see if there is a converter plug, wire splice, or if it is soldered.

 

I still have to solder mine. They were crimped by Zach at the dealership. Probably do that when I finally get around to replacing my CPS pigtail

 

If they're working fine Zach probably crimped them correctly, you might throw some di-electric grease in if the ends of the caps can be exposed and then re-shrink wrap them.

 

I'm sure he did a fine job, but every now and then I'll have some MAP codes, that's why I've been wanting to do this, just in case. 4 years of temperature swings and vibrations and all...

 

OK so I did by a new Maf sensor. I was wondering if it is possible that the tune doesn't read the new Maf sensor right.. Should I clean the old maf sensor and put it back on and see how it runs....

 

All this time, energy and money you are wasting on MAFs and O-rings, you could just take it to the dealer and have them diagnose it. There is something you are missing. Tunes don't just go bad, you've replaced the MAFs with no change and you said you've check wiring for breaks and what not. Did you put those O-rings in the MAPs?

 

No I didn't order the O rings. I was just wondering if you think that could be the probably I know the tune doesn't go bad but it was tuned on that Maf so I was just wondering. I have only put $100 into it so far.

 

It could be the maf sensor, but normally the 0101 is boost leak. Throw the new one in and see.

 

From what I understand, when you tune MAF tables, they don't change when you change MAFs. Those tables are stored on the ECM and regardless of how many different MAFs you put in this thing

 

You're correct, the difference between MAFs should not be significant enough to mess with how the car runs.

 

Alright thanks guys. I guess I should take it to a dealer though. But won't they mess things up cause the car is tuned?...