IAT2's are all over the place
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
If you have the bleeder line hooked up to the top of your stock HE, then you should not have to do anything. You can try just taking the cap off of your option b tank to let the air out if you want, but you should not have to lift it up or anything like that. I had some IC troubles a while ago which had me questioning whether or my IC fluid was flowing or not. So, I repaced some of the lines with clear hot water heater hose so I could see. Just an idea.
I've been running Opt. B for 3 years now, and have had it apart many times in order to add different coolant mixes and what not. It will work much faster if you self burp the system. The tank will begin to bleed the system much faster that way.
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
Senior Member
Joined: 12-19-05
Posts: 9,704
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Hell all I had on my lsj was the shittastic Cobra H/E and meth and saw a max IAT2 at the track and 3 back to back runs was 115*....
I also changed my fluid out to straight distilled water and water wetter in the summer
I also changed my fluid out to straight distilled water and water wetter in the summer
The Opt. B setup can still trap air. Trust me.
I've been running Opt. B for 3 years now, and have had it apart many times in order to add different coolant mixes and what not. It will work much faster if you self burp the system. The tank will begin to bleed the system much faster that way.
I've been running Opt. B for 3 years now, and have had it apart many times in order to add different coolant mixes and what not. It will work much faster if you self burp the system. The tank will begin to bleed the system much faster that way.
Ive got it all. opt b, dual pass, zzp S3 HE, no meth and no cobra HE tho. I was hot lapping at the track last week and after 5 straight passes I was still holding good around 120*.
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
You wouldnt need a cobra heat exchanger. You already have a ZZP front mount. Not sure what you were getting at there.
I meant no GRIFFIN h/e. I wasnt sure if you were saying the Griffin h/e was better than the ZZP. I wasnt getting at anything, I was just stating what my car did at the track.
Senior Member
Joined: 12-19-05
Posts: 9,704
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
Last edited by Staged07SS; May 26, 2011 at 11:47 AM.
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
Anyways, I would like to post an update....
I spent some time "burping" the Opt. B tank/coolant system yesterday, and everything is back to normal! I even went ahead (for ***** & giggles), and tapped on the pump housing a little. After all the pump is now 4 years old, and prob starting to get clogged up with deposits from the brushes.
My IAT2's stayed around 15-18*F above IAT1's while cruising to work this morning in 83*F heat. Not bad. They also recovered fairly quickly after sitting at some stop lights. I'm happy to have everything back to normal.
Cobaltvenomss: Let me know how you make out.
I spent some time "burping" the Opt. B tank/coolant system yesterday, and everything is back to normal! I even went ahead (for ***** & giggles), and tapped on the pump housing a little. After all the pump is now 4 years old, and prob starting to get clogged up with deposits from the brushes.
My IAT2's stayed around 15-18*F above IAT1's while cruising to work this morning in 83*F heat. Not bad. They also recovered fairly quickly after sitting at some stop lights. I'm happy to have everything back to normal.
Cobaltvenomss: Let me know how you make out.
dang seems everyone having problem in the texas humitiy lol bc my car temp is about 170f vince says and i have it all too... dual pass, dual h/e, option b and i cant seem to get it lower. if anyone knows or have ideas i would love to hear it sorry if thread jacking
p.s. im fully built if that matters and 2.2 s/c
p.s. im fully built if that matters and 2.2 s/c
Anyways, I would like to post an update....
I spent some time "burping" the Opt. B tank/coolant system yesterday, and everything is back to normal! I even went ahead (for ***** & giggles), and tapped on the pump housing a little. After all the pump is now 4 years old, and prob starting to get clogged up with deposits from the brushes.
My IAT2's stayed around 15-18*F above IAT1's while cruising to work this morning in 83*F heat. Not bad. They also recovered fairly quickly after sitting at some stop lights. I'm happy to have everything back to normal.
Cobaltvenomss: Let me know how you make out.
I spent some time "burping" the Opt. B tank/coolant system yesterday, and everything is back to normal! I even went ahead (for ***** & giggles), and tapped on the pump housing a little. After all the pump is now 4 years old, and prob starting to get clogged up with deposits from the brushes.
My IAT2's stayed around 15-18*F above IAT1's while cruising to work this morning in 83*F heat. Not bad. They also recovered fairly quickly after sitting at some stop lights. I'm happy to have everything back to normal.
Cobaltvenomss: Let me know how you make out.
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
well i unscrewed my opt b brackets and too the tank and raised it above the engine and u could tell it was working lol...so i leave it like that for about 10 minutes then screw everything back then on my way to work this morning it was GREAT! but right around the end it started getting high again
Give the pump a few taps. It might be sticking. The deposits from the brushes tend to bind the pump up. It will run for a bit then stick. See if that helps.
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
Well, I sometimes don't know my own strength, so I always "tap" things haha. I didnt have a rubber mallet on me so I took a block of wood, placed it over the pump bracket, and started gently tapping away. I don't know if my pump was sticking for sure, but figured it wouldnt hurt to free up some of the deposits and crap that tend to bind these pumps up.
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
After I burp the tank, I always remove the bleeder line from the opt. b tank to the stock heat exchanger, and let some coolant **** out of the bleeder line reducer. I don't know if it helps, but it is the bleeder area for the stock heat exchanger so it might. This method has always worked for me when trying to "jump start" the opt. b's bleeding process.
Senior Member
Joined: 12-19-05
Posts: 9,704
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
well i unscrewed my opt b brackets and too the tank and raised it above the engine and u could tell it was working lol...so i leave it like that for about 10 minutes then screw everything back then on my way to work this morning it was GREAT! but right around the end it started getting high again