HackAbuse

So today something happened and I really didnt think much of it until it happened twice.

I got into my car, turned the key, and nothing happened. The dash lit up, headlights came on, gauges did their sweep, but the car did not crank. I kept trying for 30 seconds and it finally started, so I didnt think much of it.

Until it happened again. This time for about 5 mins.

It's simialr to when you try to start your car in Drive, the car just refuses to crank, so I'm thinking it might have something to do with the sensor that detects wether the car is in park or not. Does anyone know?

I don't want to get stranded somewhere when this thing flips **** on me.

an0malous

im assuming you tried starting in neutral too?

if not, next time it happens try that right away. it it works first time, then its a good indication that your "park" sensor isnt telling the computer that your in park

HackAbuse

Neutral didn't work either. I assumed they both worked off the same sensor anyway.

Coblasts

Try depressing the brake next time it happens while you are starting it in neutral.I think this bypasses the park switch.

WopOnTour

This NO CRANK symptom can be a real bear as an intermittent
Techncially it can really only be properly diagnosed WHILE the fault is present

Assuming when this happens you DO NOT observe your Theft/seurity lamp flashing or ON steady... I would start "cycling" some easy to access connections to make sure that's not all it is
This includes:
-The starter itself, especially the "S" terminal
-The Crank relay as well as Crank & PRK/NEUT fuse in the underhood fuseblock (a dealer tech would usually do a "pin drag/tension" test at these terminals to make sure the connection is secure.)
-The Park/Neutral-BkUp Lamp switch near the shift lever on the top of the transaxle
-Then the ECM connector Blue C1 (L61/LSJ) or Grey C3 (LE5)
After that you'd need to start scrutinizing connections on the bottom side of the fuse block

Like I said a good tech armed with the schematic, a test lamp, and a scan tool could easily diagnose a NO-CRANK fault WHEN THE FAULT IS PRESENT, but given the complexity of the ECM controlled cranking circuit -these types of intermittents are very difficult to isolate when it's working OK

GL with it
Wop

Old Man

Next time when it happens, just wiggle or try to turn the steering wheel.

I dont know what it is with small GM cars, but Saturns its notorious with, the ignition switch wears quite rapidly and thinks its in the locked wheel position when its not actually. All lights etc will all work, but no power to the starter. You can test it until your blue in the face and it will never show unless it was ready to happen when testing it.

WopOnTour

IGN switch input problems (to the BCM) will bring on the "Security" lamp or warnings... Whole new ball-game
Wop

HackAbuse

yeah I definitely didnt have a security lamp

Smitty1017

Ok, I might be of some help here, becuase something similar happened in my blazer, and also to a friend with an implala, but then again it sounds like alot of things. Maybe your car doesn't recognize the key all the time? I think you just gotta put you car in accessory mode for like an hour, then turn it off for an hour and repeat a few times. Its worth a try.

edit: i read through what i skipped over on the thread and people already suggested ignition switch, so i guess not?

WopOnTour

What you are referrng to is the "Theft Deterrant Relearn" which wouldnt be the case here because the security warning is not flashing/illuminated as it would have been on your Blazer.
WOT

PS to the OP> Get it fixed yet?