I got my intake delivered today and I can confirm that MY filter indeed has the metal strip on the furthest part of the filter away from the inlet. The K&N symbol would also be upside down if you are looking at the filter with the metal strip on the top.

I just ran torque with my car for a few miles and have an average LTFT of +15 and a STFT that went anywhere between 7 and -7 depending on engine load. This was STOCK with GMS1.

Here comes the fun though:

Upon removing the stock intake tube I noticed a LOT of oil covering the inside of the tube as well as a slight pooling up of it on the turbo inlet. Although this sounds to be about normal. I am ordering the Powell PCV separator soon to remedy this. I also want to take the car into the dealer (under powertrain) and have them clean the valves. See photo:



I installed the intake and then fired up the car. Horrible. I oriented the filter with the majority of it upward (like I've read here). The first time I tried starting it the car would not start, just turned over repeatedly. The second time I tried to start it it did start but the car idles extremely rough at about 730-750 rpms with slight surging in the idle, the exhaust has numerous small popping sounds under any load, and the LTFT was still at +15. My headlights were dimming as well as the dash lights (seatbelt, DIC). Throttle was very laggy in response, was not consistent. It felt like I was losing power with more throttle. Then my buddy went to give it some throttle after some idling and POP, there was a loud bang/pop that came right from the intake (I was on the other side of the car so I only heard it).

I checked the fitment of everything and it seemed good. Then after eating dinner and trying to become un-frustrated, I replaced the stock air intake and the car ran just fine. Stock does have some rough idle periodically during warm up.

I made a video so that I could show you all and of course it somehow became corrupted on my phone (FML). To further the fun my buddy dropped the tube into the plastic bag when we were cleaning up not realizing there is no bottom letting the tube hit the ground and put a nice dent in the filter end that I made him round out (still looks like crap).

My only idea to solve the problem is to reinstall it later and loosen the filter and rotate it as the car is running to see if I can get any better results.

Any suggestions? Thanks guys...

 

Did you plug the maf in / put it in backwards? Lol.


Also I don't think cleaning the valves is under warranty. If there offering it tho take it

 

I was just assuming. I'd rather do it myself anyway.

And the maf will only fit one way.

 

Atleast I'm not the only one that has problems with aftermarket air filters lol. My car, even when tuned for it by trifecta, runs like absolute crap when I have my K&N sri on.

 

Sounds like you might have a vacuum leak or problems else ware.

 

+15 good god.

Ltft is around 7. Maybe you are doing something wrong

 

This, def seems like something wasn't correct beyound just the intake install changing everything.

 

Almost looks like the filter was over oiled, cause that oil starts before the PVC inlet. Clean ur maf and start it without a filter on and see what it does. Then put filter on and try again.

 

Thatsss alot of oil.. The oil I see that pools there is brown/ black. I too think somethings up, at the idle the car should be normal. 15+ may be a leak, or you may just have a car that doesnt like intakes.

 

That pic was from the stock intake at 25200 miles looking from the turbo inlet side.

The car runs fine other than a slightly rough idle at times with the stock airbox and also has the 15 ltft when completely stock. No mods other than GMS1 installed by previous owner.

 

Also, I do have torque so I can give anyone any readings that they would find useful i.e. vacuum, boost, MAF g/s, etc.

 

Did you pull the battery while installing the intake? Otherwise your LTFT will take a long time to change

 

Terminator2, heres your answer from previous thread. Stock airbox with GMS1 = +15% LTFT.

Its not your K&N intake causing the high LTFT then. There has to be a vacuum leak somewhere. Any CELs? are the GMS1 sensors seated properly? I once had an issue where the vacuum hose on the lower charge pipe snapped off and cause a -18% LTFT, car still boosted to 15psi on stock tune at the time too.

 

I did pull the battery while installing. Car will boost to around 18 psi. (I am at 0-600ft elev)

No CELs. Drove the car the 20mi to work today and the trims settled to about +13. Is that mean rich or lean?

I will check the bosch sensors tonight after work as well as look for any leaks.

Thanks for the help so far. I appreciate it.

 

Make sure that they have the correct 0-rings. Black is what you need.

 

The issue is not your intake, it's all that oil going into it. if your stock intake did 15 and your aftermarket one did 15 then nothing changed.

 

true m33pm33p. But regardless, I think 15+ LTFT like that is a leak of some kind. Im with terminator2 on this one, a positive fuel trim like that means your running lean, which in turn mean you have unmetered air entering the system vacuum side. theres a leak somewhere. before the turbo probably.


Oh hey, where did you get that neat quote CCSS3?

 

Correct.

OP there are only so many places you could have a leak. You sure the MAF, recirc tube and tube attached to turbo are leak free?

Obviously not the intakes fault.

 

I am aware the intake is not causing the LTFT issue, however it also did not work compared to the stock airbox.

I just checked the two Bosch sensors and they have blue o rings. Incorrect orings right?

And I am assuming i can use electric parts cleaner for the maf?

My trims on the way home (20 miles) averaged 14.8.

 

Wrong o-rings.


right o-rings.
O-RING 3 Bar Map Sensor 12626998

You need 2. You'll tear one putting it on. Buy 4. 12 bucks. Bet you can swing 12 bucks.

 

air filter metal rib thing is a bullshit hoax, I've proven it true in another thread somewhere. Every filter comes with the rib in a different place.

 

Correct, hopefully this fixes the positive fuel trims.... although I feel that you would be showing negative fuel trims if this is your problem since these sensors are on the "charged air side" - charged air would blow out the gaps causing a loss of metered air and the engine would be running rich.

Heres a neat experiment, stay in boost for a while, I dont mean floor it, just keep the rpms low like say your in 5th gear @ 35mph and giving it enough gas to hold around 5psi or so. See if the fuel trims start going in the negative directions.

My theory being, if you just daily drive this to work and what not, your mainly in vacuum so you would be taking in unmetered air through the gaps in the charge piping and intake manifold left by these incorrect o-rings.

 

Doesnt mean the positioning of the filter doesnt change air flow across the MAF. The general consensus is the bulge of the filter facing up, not that the metal rib must be facing up. That was originally stated cause alot of the filters seemed to have the metal rib at the pinnacle of the bulge and was mentioned as a reference.

 

14.8 is still really high. If it hits +18.0 LTFT I believe you will get a CEL. The fact that the car is correcting for this leak enough to prevent a CEL kinda says that the leak is very small.

You should be okay using that cleaner on the MAF, as long as no power is running to it lol.

 

^That and that are not right. I think you guys may have already figured it out in this thread, but I'm just reiterating some points. GMS1 should boost more than 18 psi even at 0-600 ft elevation. I'm around/below 800 ft elevation and I would see 21 psi on mine. I ran the K&N sri and GMS1 for quite a few miles now, and with the properly oriented bulge, I never saw more than +7% ltft.