Hey everyone,

I have been experiencing key fob issues for the past year.

Symptoms:

I have 2 fobs total. Both experiencing the same issues. All buttons work intermittently. For example, the lock button will work 1 in 10 times. The inside lock/unlock buttons on the car work fine.

What I've tried:

1) New Maxell batteries. New Duracell batteries. No change in function.

2) Aluminum tape over each carbon button. No change
Foil over each carbon button. No change

3) Folded paper (to compress battery). No change.
Have not tried to solder as the three contacts on each FOB look great.

Why should I suspect the receiver at this point?

Here is where it gets interesting. If I take a key fob and place it right over where the receiver is on the passenger side of the car, the fob works 100% of the time. It has to be right on the glass though. A feet or two away and nothing again.

Could this extreme loss in range be caused by the receiver? Does a bad receiver still work intermittently?


Thanks for any help!

 

I would say its the reciever. But if I remember correctly I think there is a fuse for it. If you need a receiver rains_crusader had one some time back

 

I'm pretty sure the systems you describe are the remote itself. The connection points between the rubber button and the electrical bits underneath have gotten worn down over time- it happened to one fob of mine. I'm not quite sure where to find it anymore, but you buy something that will replace all those connection pads for you, I think it only costs something like 10 dollars. You just have to open up your remote and put the new one in, it's all one piece. Maybe someone else knows a link to it. Sorry about being so vague, I forget the names of all these things.

 

Ohh yeah idk why I was thinking he tried it, the actual rubber could be worn out try looking for them on ebay replace one and see if it work

 

I really wanted it to be the remote, but I do not believe they could be the problem at this point. I looked into the carbon pad problem and the "button repair pad" are about $10 each or 2 for $18 online ("keylessfix"). However, I decided to do the DIY version of this fix. I used aluminum tape on the carbon pads, which did not work. I then tried a few layers of aluminum foil instead, this also did not work. I read that the carbon pads do not all wear out at once, so for example the unlock and lock may go bad since you use those all the time, but the trunk or panic may still work fine. I never experienced this. All my buttons have the same issue, where any button will work sometimes if I keep pressing. This has actually progressed over the year. For example, last year the buttons worked, let's say 1 in 4-5 times. Now it is really bad, 1 - 10 if I am lucky.

I think I can rule the carbon pads out as the problem, as the fobs work 100% of the time when I try to use them right next to the receiver. Note that I have 2 key fobs. Both of them are acting the same way. I have tried this fix on each fob with the same results.

 

Most likely the fobs from continues use

 

My key fob does the same thing. Works 1 in 15 times. The unlock works fine just locking button. Randomly started doing it a little while back.

 

I have the same randomly occurring problem with my fobs as well

 

Another point that I didn't think about until now. One of my key fobs I purchased new years ago and it never gets use. It just sits in a drawer as backup. This one should not have any issue with the carbon pads. So I have a practically brand new key fob and old one I use every day acting the same way.

 

What year is your car?

 

Yeah was going to tell you that usually 2 dont go bad at the same time unless you use them alot. Pm rains_crusader he had the receiver for like 40 bucks im sure he still has it

There you are lol

 

Keylessfix - Home

 

I have a 2005 Chevy Cobalt. The trunk stopped working first or went out intermittently. I figured it was a leak I had in the back, the vertical portion of the trunk, and that the electrical device that popped it open had stopped working. Never addressed it--use the key. Lately, the doors' locks have been popping locked/unlocked off and on. Last night it did it, and I had to use the key, which set off the alarm. When you crank the car, the alarm goes off by the way--I figured but some forums people don't realize that. I was wondering if I could turn this alarm off in my little buttons. Probably.

It was cold last night--as with this fellow, I changed both batteries in both fobs and used them both. Neither of them worked, and it was about 35 degrees F. When the temperature gets higher they pop right open. I KNOW cold affects electronics, and I know Cobalts have questionable electronics because I've had several problems, the door openers for one--had to replace them, and something else stopped working that I just ignore now. Does your car work better when it gets up above 50-60 degrees like mine?

And both of the fobs were warm--I know batteries produce less voltage when it gets cold, although with newer batteries that shouldn't be it. But I also know when electronic components begin to fail, that cold offers more resistance than warmer temperatures. So that fits with the behavior, the off-on nature of it. I hope this helps.

I'm siding with the car receiver failing. I figure the trunk went first because with the weaker signal, the travel distance was greater in the wire. As it failed more and more, the doors finally stopped locking/unlocking.

 

I have been having some issues with our sedan, and figured I might be able to help out... at least a little.

The easiest way to deduce if your issue is the fob, is to by a fob tester;
They are essentially devices that can tell you if the fob is transmitting a signal.

Next, the electronics wear out;
I had to replace two of the four lock solenoids on the sedan, and now they all reliably work.

My remaining issue is that I cannot get a second fob to program;
I have a Tech2, and am certain I have gone through the procedure correct - I do tend to fumble my way through procedures using the tech2 because I have no training with it (ect);
So I am now wondering how to figure out why I cannot get a second fob to program on the sedan.

The only way to avoid your alarm going off when you use a key to (physically) unlock the car is to lock the car via the power door lock switch INSIDE the car - hit lock once, and you will hear a delayed chime indicating the car will lock shortly (I believe this is in the owners manual);
The alarm will only go off if you use the fob to lock the car - then use the key to unlock the car.

The downside, is that you are essentially disabling your factory alarm by not using the fob to lock the car.

 

Thanks, that's good information on the "locking it from inside," as I don't remember reading that but it sounds logical. There isn't much to steal in my old 2005 sedan, so I'm not worried.

Right now, I'm letting it go on finding a solution--but I'm pretty sure the receiver on the car is bad, but it's "going bad." It stops reliably working when it gets cold. But they all snap open quickly when it's warm. Electricity conducts worse when it's cold. I figure there's something in the circuit that's barely letting current flow (solder cracked), so when it gets cold, it just stops. It's near the crux of the windshield, so I just move my key real close and press it about a foot away, and "pop," it works. Just thinking about it, maybe it's in the power of "receiving" the signal that worsens in the cold, not the actuator.

It seems like I read somewhere that you plug that fob thing into the dashboard socket that programs the fobs, and you have to program them all within three minutes, or it starts over. Maybe that's something?

 

I have the same issue.
Cobalt SS 2005

1. Tried different batteries.
2. Tried my backup key fob that I never used. They both function the same.
3. Pulled the RDO Fuse #23 and DR LCK Fuse #26 checked them.

The range is pretty much my windshield. On warm days it will work about a foot from my door. If it's cold outside then it takes a lot of presses to get it to work. It's very responsive holding it next to the fuse box inside the car.

From all my google research I'm pretty sure its the receiver. My car is so old now It's hard to find.

 

Sounds like we have the same problem. For me, considering the age of the car and that I live in the South, for now, I'm just going to put up with it. I think it's hard to get to, under the dash right where the window intersects with the car. You've got to remove a lot of crap. Either I pay a lot or I put up with it.

 

i have the same issue, and have tried programming new fobs, i also agree it is a weak receiver.

 

The Cobalt Keyless Entry receiver is Part # 21994227, but it is discontinued. I've got "Google lost" (a term I'm trying to popularize!(ha)) for a good while on several occasions trying to find it. Mine is a 2005 and I don't know how many others have the same part. I've run across this problem with some other parts, like a keyhole gasket for my trunk, too. They just decide to stop making the parts right when we need them. You can purchase aftermarket kits--I guess they provide a receiver that you tune to your car somehow, and you get a couple of remotes with it. I suspect it mounts somewhere, maybe in the same relative place. I can't imagine they change out all of the door solenoids that pop the locks, so I guess they're coordinated with the existing ones in the car. I'd rather replace the part. If I find a solution I'll bring it back here.

I did see a YouTube video where a guy popped that dashboard strip that goes across right under the windshield fairly easily. So I guess it's accessible. He did not remove the module, however. I'm sure it is cramped work being at that sharp angle where the windscreen intercepts the dash.

I'm revising my trunk problem--I think that might be the actuator, or whatever it is called--like the door solenoids that pop them open, but the one on the trunk. I didn't mess with that either. But I'm pretty sure I can find that part.

Last night it was 40ish degrees again and wouldn't pop open from anywhere--I put it right on the windshield just right of center at the bottom (where the receiver is) and it popped right open. It could be a cold solder that gets worse when the temperature drops, or maybe some water has gotten in there and is freezing or blocking the signal. But it's likely at some point to get worse and stop functioning even when it's warm, I figure.