Hey all my 2007 ss is having some serious issues right now. Pretty much last year some how a sparkplug shot out of my head damaging the threads so recently I finally got around to replacing it. I replaced with a ported head from lsjion.

My issue is the car starts but refuses to hold a idle. It starts but the idle bouncing horribly before cutting off. I also have a code for p2229.

I did add a lot of mods to the car while it was down besides the ported head, I added a 1320 tvs with a 2.9 pulley, return style fuel system, a walbro 450 LPh fuel pump, 80lbs injectors, option b, dual pass, and a tune a member made for me. This issue is driving me nuts and I need help figuring out what it is so I can finally drive my car!!!

 

Sounds like either a large vac leak or timing off.

What is the description for the code... i dont have them all memorized anymore.

 

Barometric censor high voltage code. And I hope it isn't timing because I did follow your guide to the letter when I installed the head. I'll look around for a vac leak but I haven't found any yet

 

More than likely a vac leak... look around the intake mani and blower.

 

Ok today I looked at the car and sure enough I forgot to plug the vacuum hose under the fuel rail in. I plugged it in and tried to start the car and I'm getting the same issue/code. I looked at my wide band and fuel pressure guages and I'm running extremely rich, fuel pressure is about 70 ish psi and the wideband is at 10-12.

I'ma try and set my fuel pressure regulator and hope that is what is causing these issues.

Also could old gas be causing this too?

 

iirc 70psi is way to high, it should be closer to 42-50ish, you're injecting a lot of fuel causing the rich condition

 

Could my new fuel pump be forcing too much fuel? I upgraded to a walbro 450lph pump. I pretty much have the regulator maxed out and I'm still getting 64-70+ fuel pressure and reading rich on wideband

Edit: I'm also wondering if my tune could be off. It's a gms2 ish tune, and I I'm sure my car is a bit past the stage 2 tune. I thought my car would at least be able to hold idle before digging deeper though

 

Bump and an update. I'm still getting the same symptoms and a new code, p0300. From what I could pull on the code it's something fuel related and all I got from searching was an issue with the tune in the fuel tables. Does this seem possible?

 

P0300 is a random misfire if i remember correctly

 

base pressure should be 58psi if you are running a tune that isn't setup for a different fuel pressure, fix that first. That would explain the rich rough idle to an extent but it should be ok to drive.

Also, make sure you don't have the regulator setup to increase fuel pressure with boost until you adjust the tune for that.

The baro sensor under the fuel rail isn't supposed to be plugged into anything on the hose port of it but it does have to be on the harness, it's possible you got it switched with the SCIP sensor when doing the TVS swap, that could cause a code but not the poor running.

Fix the fueling and let us know, then go get a tune to start with.

 

Well that's what I'm trying to figure out. I have the areomotive regulator pretty much maxed out and I'm still rich as hell. When I looked into that code I came across a thread where the issue was in the fuel tables which is why I'm pretty certain it's a tune issue. I'll see if I can link the thread through my phone if not I'll link it when I get home

Also I hate sounding like a noob but can you please explain to me exactly what I'm looking for here?

 

The aeromotive regulators and most other aftermarket ones can be connected to a vacuum source to reduce fuel pressure under vacuum and raise it under boost. Until you set up your tune for that, you don't want that happening. The tune is set for 58psi all the time, so that's what you want until you tune for the return line setup.

Disconnect any vacuum lines going to the regulator and adjust it down to 58psi. If it's not going that low, maybe your return line is setup wrong or restricted.

 

Another bumb, sorry for the many questions, I'm just trying to learn this stuff and figure it out /cussing

I haven't been near my car all week sadly but I'm going to look at it tomorrow. I decided to look my tune over and I'm "thinking" it was calibrated for 60's, not 80's. I'm comparing to omegas injector spread sheet

I'm also going to check my routing for my return style when I get to the car tomorrow

 

Hey guys just wanted to let ya know that shes running now and had her dyno tuned. She made 262 whp, not exactly what I was hoping for but it's definitely quicker than it was when I last drove her. Also the issue turned out being a second regulator in my tank that I had no idea about lmao!

 

Good to know.

Whoever installed the return line stuff should have removed the built-in regulator. I had that issue on a local Ion, without pulling the regulator check ball/spring, you can't go below 58psi no matter what you do with the front regulator, and since it's two restrictions on the line you will see higher pressures than normal at the rail.

 

That's exactly what was happening! But I'm just extremely happy to have my car back atm, now time to work on the suspension...Time for Mr. Powell to receive a good chunk of my pay checks for the next several months...