G speed how did you clean the valves and did you replace the PCV Valve? doesnt sound like it. meh

 

Anyone?

 

Update: Car running good for 2 days now.. AFR's alittle off but not as bad..

Got a P0236, Lower TMAP is a month old with 0 oil.. even upper no oil "since I cleaned it out IM"

Going to solder the GMS1 sensors this weekend, but what gauge wire is't?
I don't have enough wire to re solder...

 

Update: Most recent code P2261 - Turbocharger Bypass Valve Stuck Closed
It was Pending, then went..

 

read the thread LNF gunk and get your car fixed my advice

 

lol

 

Data log the car doing the issue ideally. Purge solenoid can cause issues like that with the a/f all over the place but normally car still boosts normally just misfires more.

 

Bpv vac line leak, bpv worn out, solenoid on that intake mani bad.

 

the car needs proper service; to be in proper mechanical shape and then with proper diagnosis. All this seagull diagnostics stuff on the forum is tiresome. G speed is a smart guy too bad he is not being smart in this matter.

 

I have seen it where P0236 was caused by the upper map going bad. You should definitely solder all those connections though.

 

Regarding this .... after shutting off the car and leaving it for 3-4 hours. When I pull off the line to the solenoid to vac tank... there is still pressure?

Don't want to spend the money to get it taken in and diagnosed either to you or GM.

Won't have this car much longer, waiting for Subaru's rates to drop

Carbon is all cleaned out, there can only be a few things. BPV possibly, driving on the highway I could hear the BPV going crazy.. "Not on boost" so maybe it's sticking or staying stuck open?

Or like others say could be the sensors..

Upper Map was put in a month ago, and has 0 oil on it.. proper O-ring etc..

Do you know what gauge the wire is to solder the connections, If I cut the current crimps, I will not have enough wire to reconnect.

 

you know what? you finally did it G speed ! You got me p***d off at your attitude. You text me that you got bux and want it fixed, then say here that dont want to do basic diagnostics.
If you dont have engine health, all bets are off.

Please for the love of cars, do us all a favor trade it in right now, and leave the forum. I am tired of the endless bs from you. There are folks on here trying to help and offer suggestions in good faith, and all you can say is "I tried that, I did this , it cant be that" , etc.

Go trade it and get lost.

Sorry to be so blunt you finally did achieve it; I am at the end of my patience with you. And the honest guys here trying to help you dont need the endless "go round".

 

Just out of curiosity, how long does it usually take you to clean the valves? $600 doesn't seem to bad of a price, my car runs fine but with 86,xxx km on it I'm sure the valves have some gunk built up on them.

 

Wish I was closer to powell. He would have my $600.

 

Closer than I am, I would debate a short vacation to have Powell clean your valves if I was on the east coast

 

It varies according to the build up and how much trouble with what aftermarket parts are on the intake - I pulled a Hahn intake pipe off that was rusted right through, for example.

so about four to six hours depending what I find, and this includes the clean up of parts during and after, and oil change etc., and if I am installing a PCV upgrade at the same time (no extra charge for install) . I would say maybe three if it is a good day and there are no hiccups, but I have never gotten that fast...

 

Was writing a bunch of stuff, then figured why waste my time arguing with an 80 year old

To all the other people on this forum, you can clean the valves your self for $40 worth of carb cleaner, picks, rags and an IM gasket.

 

And $35 to change the oil and however much the PCV valves cost now a days. You did change the PCV valve right?

 

Correct PCV changed.. Grand total of $85 including $10 for the PCV valve.

It's such an easy job too, time consuming but easy.

 

Check the BPV and the vac line connected to it. The stuck BPV code. The P0236 code is often a correlation issue between the lower and upper MAP.

 

Okay.. All put in the other two spares I bought see if it makes a difference..

If the BPV was sticking or not shutting etc... would that cause a vacuum leak that could also throw a P0236?

I never get the codes at the same time?

Wondering if the 21psi from gms1 is causing premature failure of the BPV? As opposed to stock..?

Maybe I should switch to the metal forge bpv?

Side Note: My LTFT is around 0.8

 

Well I'm sold, already have the PCV upgrade but haven't installed it yet, I'll be getting in contact with you by the end of the month to get my car in for the valve cleaning.

 

Pull the BPV and check the rubber diaphram for tears or deformation. No the leak is an internal one. The P0236 code will tell the ecm to use the sever fault tables for controlling boost hence the 5-6 psi max.

 

Update...
Ordered the new pigtails, and new map sensors..

Solder on the new ones, and put on map sensor

I was good for 1000km's or 621miles

Till I started feeling it again.... I'm at 12XXkm's now.. and I can feel it getting worse everyday... my ltft 0.8
AFR is usually 14.5-15, but I'm now getting random swings...

Going to spray maf cleaner on the map sensor tonight, see if that does anything..
I have yet to go into limp mode/no cel/no pending cel.. still getting a reading from my MAP sensor..