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Hey Guys, I have a 2007 Chevrolet cobalt supercharged. Recently I have done a new clutch, flywheel, master cylinder and the slave cylinder.
I got the P0017 code around 2500 kilometres ago, I have never had an issue with starting, and it never stalls.
I have tried clearing the code and it just comes back. If I disconnect the battery and let it sit for 24 hours the code won't come back for like 30km then it just appears as I slow down. The code never comes on in high rpms, what is the cause of this? Could there be something that's not plugged in?
I would think if timing was off I would not be able to drive almost 3000km without issues. Also I have taken it close to redline and it doesn't misfire or anything.
Help me out here, I was a lot more worried when I first got the code, but now almost after 3000km I'm not to stressed out. Please if you have any ideas I would love the help.
Chances are the timing is not off per say, however its likely an issue with cam position sensor or crank position sensor. Worth checking out both but its probably the cam sensor. There is also sensors and solenoids relating to the variable valve timing system. Not sure if the LSJ's have VVT like the LNF's or newer ECOTEC motors. a P0017 code means the crank position and cam position sensors aren't correlating as they should.
Chances are the timing is not off per say, however its likely an issue with cam position sensor or crank position sensor. Worth checking out both but its probably the cam sensor. There is also sensors and solenoids relating to the variable valve timing system. Not sure if the LSJ's have VVT like the LNF's or newer ECOTEC motors. a P0017 code means the crank position and cam position sensors aren't correlating as they should.
You either didn't connect the cam sensor properly (on the exhaust cam, trans side of the head) or perhaps that sensor is just going bad. I would lean towards it being a sensor that is on the way out, as having it disconnected or not connected properly is typically a 24/7 code, not an intermittent code. Wiring should be checked though, as you possibly pinched some wiring during the job.
The fact that you aren't having any issues while driving tells me that the crank sensor is probably fine. Cam sensor is used to start the engine; crank sensor is used to run the engine. Crank sensor issues usually lead to a non-start/non-run condition.
You either didn't connect the cam sensor properly (on the exhaust cam, trans side of the head) or perhaps that sensor is just going bad. I would lean towards it being a sensor that is on the way out, as having it disconnected or not connected properly is typically a 24/7 code, not an intermittent code. Wiring should be checked though, as you possibly pinched some wiring during the job.
The fact that you aren't having any issues while driving tells me that the crank sensor is probably fine. Cam sensor is used to start the engine; crank sensor is used to run the engine. Crank sensor issues usually lead to a non-start/non-run condition.
I am assuming the cam sensor as well, are if I don't get to this right away could I have issues with starting? Also do you have a picture of where it is located and I can take a peak to see if I possibly didn't re connect it.
If you didn't reconnect it, you would have issues with starting. If it dies, you will have issues with starting.
The car will still start though, it'll just take 2 attempts and it might backfire after the first attempt.
It's on the end of the exhaust cam, by the heater hoses and brake fluid reservoir.
EDIT: DO NOT remove the metal sensor housing from the head unless you absolutely have no other choice. If it gets to that point, come back on here for advise, otherwise you're going to have a bad day.
If you didn't reconnect it, you would have issues with starting. If it dies, you will have issues with starting.
The car will still start though, it'll just take 2 attempts and it might backfire after the first attempt.
It's on the end of the exhaust cam, by the heater hoses and brake fluid reservoir.
EDIT: DO NOT remove the sensor housing unless you absolutely have no other choice. If it gets to that point, come back on here for advise, otherwise you're going to have a bad day.
Sounds good. So I I just have to undo the bolt and unplug the sensor, re plug, tourque and I'll be good to go?
My recollection is that it is really hard, borderline impossible, to remove the sensor without removing the housing. Maybe yours will be different. I can't recall what mine was hitting when I tried to change the sensor by itself as that happened like 6 years ago.
I would check that it is properly plugged in first and then maybe trace the wiring to ensure there isn't a pinch somewhere (like between engine and trans).
Had this exact same issue, pulled off the front cover and my timing chain guide was broke in half, damn plastic garbage! Timing was perfect, so no jumping but it caused enough slack in the chain to set P0016 and P0017. Got a Cloyes timing chain kit and replaced it all, code went away!
Had this exact same issue, pulled off the front cover and my timing chain guide was broke in half, damn plastic garbage! Got a Cloyes timing chain kit and replaced it all, code went away!
When I replaced the tensioner we did break some timing rhoin guide off, it was just a little piece. Do you think that this is probably the issue?
When I replaced the tensioner we did break some timing rhoin guide off, it was just a little piece. Do you think that this is probably the issue?
Maybe I over-exaggerated a bit when I said in half, this is the piece I found at the bottom of the front cover. It doesn't take much! It's definitely a possibility that the piece you broke off would cause this, did you notice the code ever pop up before it broke off?
Lol its not intermittent, it comes on and stays on. I broke off a piece way smaller then that, probably the cause.
Intermittent in that it isn't a constant, per your first statement. Might have been a poor word choice, but my point being that it doesn't come on immediately, meaning it only activates during certain scenarios.
...the code won't come back for like 30km then it just appears as I slow down. The code never comes on in high rpms, what is the cause of this?
If your sensor was unplugged, dead, or the housing was installed wrong - you would have cam/crank correlation codes immediately upon start-up.
Intermittent in that it isn't a constant, per your first statement. Might have been a poor word choice, but my point being that it doesn't come on immediately, meaning it only activates during certain scenarios.
If your sensor was unplugged, dead, or the housing was installed wrong - you would have cam/crank correlation codes immediately upon start-up.
As I read that it is a poor word choice, only when I clear it that happens but after that it is always on. Doesn't disappear randomly. Sorry about the confusion.
Codes take a certain amount of cycles to go away, so yeah, wouldn't be a case of the CEL turning on and then not being on the next time you start the car.
