I've been trying tho fix p0236 for 3 months now . I've been researching on this site & internet religiously & really haven't found any fix yet. It's a 2008 LNF. 3 months ago when i bought the car it was completely stock with no problems or codes. I decided to clean the intake valves with gm top engine cleaner which came out great by the way. Directly after cleaning n intake valves i installed ZZP 1.0 pcm, 3 bar sensors with plug in pig tails, ZZP 400 cell catted down pipe, & ZZP intake tube. So directly after the relearn i started it up & was only boosting 5 pounds. Didn't know why. Drove home & then car was fully boosting 25 pounds . park car fur the night. Next day reduced engine power mode again! So i do a boost leak test after turbo & plugged before throttle body. Had leak in intercooler on bottom right with small crack on end tank( i bought it this way peevious owner got caught on parking block & ripped off condensate tray). Lower charge pipe had leak @ joint. I epoxied the intercooler which is holding fantastically 25 pounds closed system.i replaced lower charge pipe with a ZZP one with the tmap relocate. No more leaks! Still p0236. Bought new pig tails upper & lower & new 3 bar sensors. Still p0236. I installed a new waste gate Boost solenoid, new bypass valve solenoid. Still p0236. Replaced all vacuum hoses & put worm clamps on them. Changed pcv breather hose( had a small leak in the check). Still no solution. I was also getting P0106 until i changed out the lower charge b pipe. That has bit chime back. Just can't *** p0236. Every morning i start the car it's in limp mode. Through out my daily journeys the code clears itself & drives great. I don't have intermittent boost anymore since solenoids & charge pipe swap. So basically i just clear the code & the car drives great. Idles perfect. My freeze frame data says no knock. P0236 doesn't occur while I'm driving ever. It's only when i turn the car off & let it sit. I have no drivability issues besides limp mode which when i clear there's no problems. ***** driving me crazy: I've cleaned the throttle body very delicately as well.i did notice better throttle response. I never had this problem until after cleaning intake valves & upgrades. I changed my oil yesterday & it was really black for 3000 miles. Probably from driving really rich in reduced engine power mode for 3 months. Wasn't missing any oil though. Only thing left uncovered really is a short to ground somewhere. I don't know much about electrical but i am reading all the time. Any help on this matter would be awesome. I'm so burnt out on this one. I have continuity on all 3 wires going from intake manifold map sensor pigtail to pcm harness. It seems that i only get the code when car is off in the on position. Doesn't happen while driving

 

I chased my p0236 code for a while and it connection the lower maf Sensor in the charge pipe, my charge pipe has it in a hard to reach spot and the connection was strained

 

Ok. Umm are you speaking of lower map or maf. I have the stock bpv & use the block off plate. I have the map relocated under the throttle body on my zzp cold side charge pipe.

 

I believe it’s actually the lower map sensor, the way the connection was run it strained the connection. My charge pipes are CIA and it’s not the greatest

 

Doooooood! As the title states, i fixed p0236 I've had the code for so long now that i have p0236 p.t.s.d.. Constant fear of its return. Anyhoot. This is what happen. Around 8,000 miles ago my car was stock. I decided to get a zzp 1.0 pcm zzp catted down pipe & 3 barz wit plugNplay/adapters. Well the car had 144,000 miles & never had intake valves cleaned. So, i cleaned them with hand tools & gm top engine cleaner. Replaced intake mani gasket & pcv valve. Put back together. P0236 After security relearn. I replaced both map sensors, maf sensor, bypass valve solenoid, wastegate boost solenoid, throttle body, cut the factory map adapters off & spliced them in, vvt solenoids(fixed black oil issue & hesitation@ light throttle, new pcv breather hose( wasn't checking). During this time i was getting alot of oil on map sensor. Had to clean it every 3 days & smelled of fuel. Decided to replace hpfp. Found that the oring was eroded & letting fuel into oil. Stil p0236. Bought a new e69 pcm off ebay with stock tune. Did security relearn & dialed in the 3 bar sensor #'s via hp tuners. P0236 remains i tested for continuity from pcm harness to tmap & map sensors. All good there. So i said I'm just gonna take the intake mani off & check for anything out of the norm. Found lots of fresh oil on throttle body & intake valves were suuuuper cruddy after 8,000 miles

Intake port 1

Intake port 2

Intake port 3

This is 8,000 miles after cleaning them. Cause= failed brand new pcv valve (stuck open) Intake port 4

So i replaced the pcv valve ( blew through it to make sure it was checking & intake mani gasket. Pulled the pcm fuse to clear it before start up. Started in limp mode after 5 min of idling car cleared the code by itself & has been driving better than I've ever felt it. Driving for 8,000 miles with a vacuum leak & then driving it fixed felt like best performance upgrade ever!. I finally fixed p0236 but was it really. I started it the following morning before work with that bad feeling. ****** starts up in limp mode So i rationalized & thought about it. What could be causing voltage drop only on cold start up? Turns out it was my hids. I have depo gen 4 projectors. When i start the car they are some how causing voltage drop to the map sensors. So i have driven that last 100 miles with no codes & am cleared for smog. All i have to do is put my parking lights on before i turn the key to disable day running lights. Walla she's cured! Now i just have trim the grey hair off my head.

 

You can also remove the DRL fuse to permanently disable DRL.

 

Ok cool. I think I'll do that then. Thank you exninja for the reply. That makes more sense.

 

I also want to note that i was having a drivers side headlight go in and out. I removed the headlight to find the ballast adapter to headlight adapter was partially melted. This made it not connect properly. I shaved the melted adapter back so it plugged in properly & has worked fine since. Kind of scary though. I've read a few posts about engine bay fires because of this. The way the canbus hangs in the wheel well pulls on the adapter causing it to separate a lil bit.