P0236 nightmare
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
P0236 nightmare
I've been trying tho fix p0236 for 3 months now . I've been researching on this site & internet religiously & really haven't found any fix yet. It's a 2008 LNF. 3 months ago when i bought the car it was completely stock with no problems or codes. I decided to clean the intake valves with gm top engine cleaner which came out great by the way. Directly after cleaning n intake valves i installed ZZP 1.0 pcm, 3 bar sensors with plug in pig tails, ZZP 400 cell catted down pipe, & ZZP intake tube. So directly after the relearn i started it up & was only boosting 5 pounds. Didn't know why. Drove home & then car was fully boosting 25 pounds . park car fur the night. Next day reduced engine power mode again! So i do a boost leak test after turbo & plugged before throttle body. Had leak in intercooler on bottom right with small crack on end tank( i bought it this way peevious owner got caught on parking block & ripped off condensate tray). Lower charge pipe had leak @ joint. I epoxied the intercooler which is holding fantastically 25 pounds closed system.i replaced lower charge pipe with a ZZP one with the tmap relocate. No more leaks! Still p0236. Bought new pig tails upper & lower & new 3 bar sensors. Still p0236. I installed a new waste gate Boost solenoid, new bypass valve solenoid. Still p0236. Replaced all vacuum hoses & put worm clamps on them. Changed pcv breather hose( had a small leak in the check). Still no solution. I was also getting P0106 until i changed out the lower charge b pipe. That has bit chime back. Just can't *** p0236. Every morning i start the car it's in limp mode. Through out my daily journeys the code clears itself & drives great. I don't have intermittent boost anymore since solenoids & charge pipe swap. So basically i just clear the code & the car drives great. Idles perfect. My freeze frame data says no knock. P0236 doesn't occur while I'm driving ever. It's only when i turn the car off & let it sit. I have no drivability issues besides limp mode which when i clear there's no problems. ***** driving me crazy: I've cleaned the throttle body very delicately as well.i did notice better throttle response. I never had this problem until after cleaning intake valves & upgrades. I changed my oil yesterday & it was really black for 3000 miles. Probably from driving really rich in reduced engine power mode for 3 months. Wasn't missing any oil though. Only thing left uncovered really is a short to ground somewhere. I don't know much about electrical but i am reading all the time. Any help on this matter would be awesome. I'm so burnt out on this one. I have continuity on all 3 wires going from intake manifold map sensor pigtail to pcm harness. It seems that i only get the code when car is off in the on position. Doesn't happen while driving
#2
Senior Member
I chased my p0236 code for a while and it connection the lower maf Sensor in the charge pipe, my charge pipe has it in a hard to reach spot and the connection was strained
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
Ok. Umm are you speaking of lower map or maf. I have the stock bpv & use the block off plate. I have the map relocated under the throttle body on my zzp cold side charge pipe.
#4
Senior Member
I believe it’s actually the lower map sensor, the way the connection was run it strained the connection. My charge pipes are CIA and it’s not the greatest
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
So i fixed p0236!
Doooooood! As the title states, i fixed p0236 I've had the code for so long now that i have p0236 p.t.s.d.. Constant fear of its return. Anyhoot. This is what happen. Around 8,000 miles ago my car was stock. I decided to get a zzp 1.0 pcm zzp catted down pipe & 3 barz wit plugNplay/adapters. Well the car had 144,000 miles & never had intake valves cleaned. So, i cleaned them with hand tools & gm top engine cleaner. Replaced intake mani gasket & pcv valve. Put back together. P0236 After security relearn. I replaced both map sensors, maf sensor, bypass valve solenoid, wastegate boost solenoid, throttle body, cut the factory map adapters off & spliced them in, vvt solenoids(fixed black oil issue & hesitation@ light throttle, new pcv breather hose( wasn't checking). During this time i was getting alot of oil on map sensor. Had to clean it every 3 days & smelled of fuel. Decided to replace hpfp. Found that the oring was eroded & letting fuel into oil. Stil p0236. Bought a new e69 pcm off ebay with stock tune. Did security relearn & dialed in the 3 bar sensor #'s via hp tuners. P0236 remains i tested for continuity from pcm harness to tmap & map sensors. All good there. So i said I'm just gonna take the intake mani off & check for anything out of the norm. Found lots of fresh oil on throttle body & intake valves were suuuuper cruddy after 8,000 miles
Intake port 1
Intake port 2
Intake port 3
This is 8,000 miles after cleaning them. Cause= failed brand new pcv valve (stuck open) Intake port 4
So i replaced the pcv valve ( blew through it to make sure it was checking & intake mani gasket. Pulled the pcm fuse to clear it before start up. Started in limp mode after 5 min of idling car cleared the code by itself & has been driving better than I've ever felt it. Driving for 8,000 miles with a vacuum leak & then driving it fixed felt like best performance upgrade ever!. I finally fixed p0236 but was it really. I started it the following morning before work with that bad feeling. ****** starts up in limp mode So i rationalized & thought about it. What could be causing voltage drop only on cold start up? Turns out it was my hids. I have depo gen 4 projectors. When i start the car they are some how causing voltage drop to the map sensors. So i have driven that last 100 miles with no codes & am cleared for smog. All i have to do is put my parking lights on before i turn the key to disable day running lights. Walla she's cured! Now i just have trim the grey hair off my head.
Intake port 1
Intake port 2
Intake port 3
This is 8,000 miles after cleaning them. Cause= failed brand new pcv valve (stuck open) Intake port 4
So i replaced the pcv valve ( blew through it to make sure it was checking & intake mani gasket. Pulled the pcm fuse to clear it before start up. Started in limp mode after 5 min of idling car cleared the code by itself & has been driving better than I've ever felt it. Driving for 8,000 miles with a vacuum leak & then driving it fixed felt like best performance upgrade ever!. I finally fixed p0236 but was it really. I started it the following morning before work with that bad feeling. ****** starts up in limp mode So i rationalized & thought about it. What could be causing voltage drop only on cold start up? Turns out it was my hids. I have depo gen 4 projectors. When i start the car they are some how causing voltage drop to the map sensors. So i have driven that last 100 miles with no codes & am cleared for smog. All i have to do is put my parking lights on before i turn the key to disable day running lights. Walla she's cured! Now i just have trim the grey hair off my head.
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
Ok cool. I think I'll do that then. Thank you exninja for the reply. That makes more sense.
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
I also want to note that i was having a drivers side headlight go in and out. I removed the headlight to find the ballast adapter to headlight adapter was partially melted. This made it not connect properly. I shaved the melted adapter back so it plugged in properly & has worked fine since. Kind of scary though. I've read a few posts about engine bay fires because of this. The way the canbus hangs in the wheel well pulls on the adapter causing it to separate a lil bit.
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