Void Warranty
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Joined: 06-08-05
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From: Pittsburgh
What year is your car? I have a 2005 and it's stated in mine that items such as brakes, clutch, etc are considered "wear items" and are only covered for a limited time and only if it can be shown to be a manufacurer's defect.
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From: new jersey
I snapped my axle during my first pass at cayuga on sunday. Got a tow 140 km back home. The car sat in my drive way until tuesday when i had roadside pick it up and bring it to the dealer. The service manager gave e the old "it shouldnt be a problem" gig before i left the car in their hands. I later got a phone call from the same advisor sayin they cannot warranty the axle. Their exuse...The wheels have been modified. R U KIDDING, WHAT THE F*** IS THAT. The car is stock powertrain wise, it has only the gm stage 2. What do wheels have to do with it. I know they are 20's but why would the cause a snapped axle. I need to know if i have any options here, gettin real pissed off.
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Joined: 12-03-06
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From: Merritt Island ,Fl
ya , the problem isnt weak axles its people not knowing how to lanch this car...part of that is the cars fult, (only car i ever ownd that would wheel hop in the rain.....)
as stated befor traction mods FTW i.e. solid mounts ,traction bars, stiffer springs, bushings all that jazz
as stated befor traction mods FTW i.e. solid mounts ,traction bars, stiffer springs, bushings all that jazz
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Joined: 09-29-06
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From: california
Well....cant blame a guy for tryin, i want my car back so i bite the bullet and decided to pay for the repair. the dealer struck a deal with me at $570 installed. Jus another expensive day at the track i guess. Definitely not usin the 20's next time, I know i shoulda changed them but i had a wedding the night before, needed the bling.lol. Guess i pay once again for my laziness. Thanx everyone for ur input (positive or not).
ya , the problem isnt weak axles its people not knowing how to lanch this car...part of that is the cars fult, (only car i ever ownd that would wheel hop in the rain.....)
as stated befor traction mods FTW i.e. solid mounts ,traction bars, stiffer springs, bushings all that jazz
as stated befor traction mods FTW i.e. solid mounts ,traction bars, stiffer springs, bushings all that jazz
Last edited by thedubsack85; Aug 29, 2007 at 09:59 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Aurora, Colorado
Actually that is true, the rotors on the balts and malibu's and impalas have pretty low torque specs 90lbs something, I myself have hurt myself by being lazy and didn't use a torque stick on my car and now they pulsate. I'm sure my impact gun with a regular socket puts out about 150lbs. When I worked for Gm we had to make sure we used the correct torque sticks for each car.
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From: california
Actually that is true, the rotors on the balts and malibu's and impalas have pretty low torque specs 90lbs something, I myself have hurt myself by being lazy and didn't use a torque stick on my car and now they pulsate. I'm sure my impact gun with a regular socket puts out about 150lbs. When I worked for Gm we had to make sure we used the correct torque sticks for each car.
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Joined: 11-19-06
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From: Orange County CA
People have already snapped stage 2 axles as well...
What year is your car? I have a 2005 and it's stated in mine that items such as brakes, clutch, etc are considered "wear items" and are only covered for a limited time and only if it can be shown to be a manufacurer's defect.
What year is your car? I have a 2005 and it's stated in mine that items such as brakes, clutch, etc are considered "wear items" and are only covered for a limited time and only if it can be shown to be a manufacurer's defect.
oh and my bad with my last comment, yes not torquing your lugs can cause this, but its bullshit because the place i bring it to for tire rotations does use a torque stick, and they went up to bat for me sending me in writing, all lugs were torqued to GM spec, although the dealer said otherwise... I think more or less, I caught someone in a lie and for them to point at another problem would look really bad...
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From: Pittsburgh
Its a 05. The warranty does say it dosnt cover wear and tare items. But it lists the clutch, tires, brake PADS, windhield wipers, etc.. nothing about rotors. My rotors didint even last a set of stock tires. I may have got "lucky" but all wheels were torqued properly. (and I gave proof)
oh and my bad with my last comment, yes not torquing your lugs can cause this, but its bullshit because the place i bring it to for tire rotations does use a torque stick, and they went up to bat for me sending me in writing, all lugs were torqued to GM spec, although the dealer said otherwise... I think more or less, I caught someone in a lie and for them to point at another problem would look really bad...
oh and my bad with my last comment, yes not torquing your lugs can cause this, but its bullshit because the place i bring it to for tire rotations does use a torque stick, and they went up to bat for me sending me in writing, all lugs were torqued to GM spec, although the dealer said otherwise... I think more or less, I caught someone in a lie and for them to point at another problem would look really bad...
Besides, they're a bunch of dumbasses for telling you that the rotors didn't seat properly causing the grooving. The grooves are a result of the choice of OEM pads. Normally they're just cosmetic and don't become a service issue. At worst, a quick machining of the face of the rotor will make them disappear. All I did was wait till I needed to change out brakes and went with different pads on OEM replacement rotors and they're smooth as glass now. They just need a little more aggressive pad on em.
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From: california
I was told specifically at the dealer that all friction parts were wear items (cause they are), which would include rotors. The "unofficial" dealership policy is they'll replace them if there's an issue within the first 7,500 miles.
Besides, they're a bunch of dumbasses for telling you that the rotors didn't seat properly causing the grooving. The grooves are a result of the choice of OEM pads. Normally they're just cosmetic and don't become a service issue. At worst, a quick machining of the face of the rotor will make them disappear. All I did was wait till I needed to change out brakes and went with different pads on OEM replacement rotors and they're smooth as glass now. They just need a little more aggressive pad on em.
Besides, they're a bunch of dumbasses for telling you that the rotors didn't seat properly causing the grooving. The grooves are a result of the choice of OEM pads. Normally they're just cosmetic and don't become a service issue. At worst, a quick machining of the face of the rotor will make them disappear. All I did was wait till I needed to change out brakes and went with different pads on OEM replacement rotors and they're smooth as glass now. They just need a little more aggressive pad on em.
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Joined: 11-19-06
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From: Orange County CA
screw dealer policy.. the stock pads are agressive.. to much so.. the rotor's cant handle em. two option's.. get cheaper pads.. or more expensive rotor's and if you think machining the face will help rotor pulsating you havent had an issue.. cause all that does is MAKE it worse cause your rotor's are thinner and thinner means less breaking power..IMO your the not so smart one thinking that an unseated rotor will not warp.. and the grooving isnt becuase of the pad. there are two grooves the outer grove from the outer edge of the pad and one in the middle of the pad contact patch. IMO you should have gone with GMPP brakes and hawk pads... jus my .2cents
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From: Pittsburgh
screw dealer policy.. the stock pads are agressive.. to much so.. the rotor's cant handle em. two option's.. get cheaper pads.. or more expensive rotor's and if you think machining the face will help rotor pulsating you havent had an issue.. cause all that does is MAKE it worse cause your rotor's are thinner and thinner means less breaking power..IMO your the not so smart one thinking that an unseated rotor will not warp.. and the grooving isnt becuase of the pad. there are two grooves the outer grove from the outer edge of the pad and one in the middle of the pad contact patch. IMO you should have gone with GMPP brakes and hawk pads... jus my .2cents
Funny you say the stock pads are TOO aggressive. I went with Hawk HPS pads for my replacement with OEM rotors. WAY more stopping power and NO GROOVING what so ever. If the OEM rotors were such pieces of ****, I highly doubt they'd use them on their race cars....
Second. No one mentioned rotor pulsing. He wanted his rotors replaced because they were grooved, NOT warped. Personally, I don't machine rotors. I think it's a cheap and temporary fix. If the rotor is to the point where there's an issue, I'll do it right and replace em.
Again, no one's talking about warping. Warping IS NOT the same as grooving. Warping is caused by uneven build up of pad material on the face of the rotor. That can definitely be cause by an ill-seated rotor. He never said he had that issue. He said there were the all-too-common grooves in the rotors but THAT'S ALL, so I would assume since both a) no warping was mentioned and b) this is an EXTREMELY common issue on this car, that the rotors being improperly seated is a non-issue.
And BTW the GMPP rotors are C-D&S. I don't run them because I do open track days and auto-x. The OEM blanks are MORE than capable rotors. They've held up like champs with the HPS pads and funny how everyone wants to say "it's not the pads" but yet the ONLY thing I've changed is pads and all the other problems people complain about have been gone the entire 12,000 miles I've had the new pads on.
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From: california
Did you even READ any of what I wrote? I never said it was my issue with the brakes. I DID have what it seems he's talking about, multiple circular grooves on the face of the rotor. New pads ELIMINATED the problem.
Funny you say the stock pads are TOO aggressive. I went with Hawk HPS pads for my replacement with OEM rotors. WAY more stopping power and NO GROOVING what so ever. If the OEM rotors were such pieces of ****, I highly doubt they'd use them on their race cars....
Second. No one mentioned rotor pulsing. He wanted his rotors replaced because they were grooved, NOT warped. Personally, I don't machine rotors. I think it's a cheap and temporary fix. If the rotor is to the point where there's an issue, I'll do it right and replace em. and BTW im a technician.. so ive seen alot of different things in my day..
Again, no one's talking about warping. Warping IS NOT the same as grooving. Warping is caused by uneven build up of pad material on the face of the rotor. That can definitely be cause by an ill-seated rotor. He never said he had that issue. He said there were the all-too-common grooves in the rotors but THAT'S ALL, so I would assume since both a) no warping was mentioned and b) this is an EXTREMELY common issue on this car, that the rotors being improperly seated is a non-issue.
And BTW the GMPP rotors are C-D&S. I don't run them because I do open track days and auto-x. The OEM blanks are MORE than capable rotors. They've held up like champs with the HPS pads and funny how everyone wants to say "it's not the pads" but yet the ONLY thing I've changed is pads and all the other problems people complain about have been gone the entire 12,000 miles I've had the new pads on.
Funny you say the stock pads are TOO aggressive. I went with Hawk HPS pads for my replacement with OEM rotors. WAY more stopping power and NO GROOVING what so ever. If the OEM rotors were such pieces of ****, I highly doubt they'd use them on their race cars....
Second. No one mentioned rotor pulsing. He wanted his rotors replaced because they were grooved, NOT warped. Personally, I don't machine rotors. I think it's a cheap and temporary fix. If the rotor is to the point where there's an issue, I'll do it right and replace em. and BTW im a technician.. so ive seen alot of different things in my day..
Again, no one's talking about warping. Warping IS NOT the same as grooving. Warping is caused by uneven build up of pad material on the face of the rotor. That can definitely be cause by an ill-seated rotor. He never said he had that issue. He said there were the all-too-common grooves in the rotors but THAT'S ALL, so I would assume since both a) no warping was mentioned and b) this is an EXTREMELY common issue on this car, that the rotors being improperly seated is a non-issue.
And BTW the GMPP rotors are C-D&S. I don't run them because I do open track days and auto-x. The OEM blanks are MORE than capable rotors. They've held up like champs with the HPS pads and funny how everyone wants to say "it's not the pads" but yet the ONLY thing I've changed is pads and all the other problems people complain about have been gone the entire 12,000 miles I've had the new pads on.
Last edited by thedubsack85; Aug 29, 2007 at 11:34 AM. Reason: cause i can..
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