Lets just put it this way. My paint is thrashed. There are many scratches and imperfections on my car from everything you can think of. From shopping carts to jeans and belt buckles and tow hooks of trucks and much much more. I have a Porter Cable rotary high speed. I want to know what product am I supposed to be looking for that I can possibly recover my paint and give it the buff job of its life. I need some serious hardcore stuff. Help me!

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/lounge-42/crazy-detail-197869/

 

Wow. He did an amazing job. But that kind of job was at about $1000 he said. Im looking for the best possible paint restoration and scratch removal for $100 or less using my Porter Cable.

 

I use the mothers clay bar kit and the cleaner wax and my **** shines! Best bang for the buck.

 

Just find a local detailer if you dont want to buy all the products or take a lot of time out of your day

 

I want to do this. I just want to know which product I need. It sounds like I need a heavy compound but I dont know anything about what to get. I just want to know what compound to get and what buff pad for a heavy duty paint restoration.

 

Meguires 105 compound
Meguires 205 polish
Autogeek has good prices on new buffers
Turbowax car shampoo
Clay bar kit
heavy cut pad
polishing pad
microfiber towels a lot of them
wax is mostly personal prefrance but I like Meguires glaze
wheel cleaner I suggest Turbowax wheel cleaner.

Have you ever used a buffer before?

This is is stus how to and it will help out a lot
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show-shine-140/hatrickstus-detailing-how-116717/

 

zaino has some great stuff if you want to go through them.

Ive worked bodyshops and dealerships for years so ive learned to live by 3m and am a 3m fan myself.

Some 3m finesse it some 3m machine glaze and a good quality wax will go a long way on your car.

 

please watch the videos on autogeek.net for rotary buffers, do alot of research before you put the pad to the paint. I'm not going to tell you what pads or compunds to use because before you do this job you should know everything about what you're working with. RESEARCH!

 

very true. it takes a lot of practice and time to get it right

 

Very true.

I remember years ago I hired on a new guy said he knew how to buff. So I let him go with a car 300m that was like 1 year old. Came back and he had burned the paint so badly...

 

if you dont know how to buff go to a body shop and see if they will let you take some scrap panels to practice on. practice makes perfect. also you will find that certain products for someone else might now be the right product for you....

example....people always have recommended meguiars professional line to me....do i like it? no... its not neccisarly a bad product but ive found that some higher end products such as wolfgang and pinnacle work best for what i do and the quality i want to achieve.

also research your buffer mads heavily.....aswell as the buffers. using a rotary is a hole different experiance from using a dual action polisher. using flat pads is a lot different from using hex logic or lake wood pads.

my best recommendation is to start off with something like a porter cable or a flex and work your way into the world of compounds. start off with something that your paint needs....maybe even have a professional address it so you can get a good idea. follow it by a polish and even a glaze if your that ****. waxes and sealents are good friends also.

be sure to always clay bar the car before buffing and be sure that you use clean pads. it will make the world of difference on black cars.

 

that does nothing for fixing paint.

refer to the post listing a bunch of products. he is dead on. also, list your PC model number so we can see what you are working with.

 

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=79859

:drool:

 

A couple tips I will give anyone that uses a rotary buffer is its alway better to try the least abrasive polishing product and it that doesnt work move to something more abrasive. The less (clearcoat) you take off the better and always keep the buffer moving. As the guy above stated what works for one doesnt always work for some one else. I have found depending on color and clearcoat hardness I will use different products to acheive the best results

 

yeah i use mulitple compounds.... i have everything from really heavy to light. i use what i need to on the car so i dont take too much clear off. i even have compounds for stratch resistant clear used on mercedes and bmw.

 

thinking about selling the buffer and just getting it professionally compounded for $100. i dont want to F up my car anymore than it is.

 

If you were closer I would love to help you out sir