I would get ZZP's kit and source a blower and intake externally, maybe even an IM. ZZP has a unique belt routing different from what HGT used here. That makes the build cheaper as you can use stock belt driven components. The only time it became a problem for me was trying to get enough tension to spin a 2.9" pulley on my TVS in the upper RPMS so I had to switch over to LSJ belt setup to prevent slip.

I don't know about the 2.4 but for the 2.2 I ordered shoulder bolts off of mcmaster because my head is drilled,tapped to the next size down. ZZP just includes the 8mm bolts.

There are some little things here and there but ZZP's kit and instructions are pretty good. Just go through everything before you start to make sure all parts are correct and you aren't missing any.

 

I could give you a lot of help either way. The supercharger you will get will be used and I went completely through mine first. In fact as you saw I went through every item first. Sadly, many of my items were garbage. Throttle body, manifold, TMAP, belt, pulley etc. Seller made good on $100.00 worth that i found used. ZZP may be the better way to go if your in a hurry. Took me at least 2 months to round up the parts and then just 12 hours to driving it. Is yours a manual?

 

jdbaugh1: Thank you very much for the information, I really appreciate the help! This is my first Cobalt experience, I did something similiar on an LD9 Cav with the GM supercharger kit and it was fun.

HGT: I would really like that, I only want to do it once and know what Im getting into ahead of time. Im in no hurry for it, I just starting doing the research, I havent even paid for the license plates on the car yet! Ha Ha Mine is an auto car as I purchased this for my DD (70+ miles a day) and wanted an auto.

 

The problem with the zzp kit is it's close to 2k after you add everything you need. And the supercharger they provide is used and they charge $375 for it. That's insane for a used one. The cheapest way to do that option is to buy the basic kit they sell without the add ons for $750 and then buy the intake manifold, throttle body and blower separate. I wouldn't use the intake provided either.

 

And you can use your stock map sensor or the stock lsj one. I used my stock one for 2 years and then swapped to the lsj one so I could read iat2.

 

Well he'll, then I have a complete HP Tuner file then and the hurdles I ran into.

 

Awesome, I will message you privately, I dont want to further clutter this build thread.

 

Went from a 3.1 pulley to a 2.8 today and got right at 2 more pounds of boost. Coming up to 10psi and holds to 7k.
Now it's time to work on the exhaust.

 

Awesome, I think that's what I would like to do eventually.

 

Everything under the hood should be done for now with the exception of exhaust.
10+ PSI of boost
11.8 AF ratio in PE mode
ST & LT close enough to stop around 5%
Trans shifts where I want them even though I would like to know more about the modes.

 

Modded my engine cover to fit the SC. Still want to do something really cool with it.

 

That is just BADASS!!!!

 

I would leave it off. Doesn't look right to me.

 

Looks out of place to me as well

 

I imagine that depends on how long you have been looking at an engine with it vs without it. It does its job in keeping things quieter.

 

As long as you like it's all that matters

 

No the engine cover looks fine on them whenever there's not a supercharger.

 

Have you considered using the Equinox engine cover? I had one on my Malibu with an LE5 and am considering doing it again for the Cobalt... Anyone tried it yet?


http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/o...psd1z78sri.jpg


I had to purchase one ball stud from the dealer, but otherwise it dropped right on.

 

I think it looks good for what it is but I really am not a fan of the whole plastic cover movement in the automotive industry as whole. Anymore some engine bays you open up the hood and you can't even tell that there is an engine underneath. Your setup is very clean to it looks good either way but I prefer the red valve cover to the plastic. Like was said this is your setup for you so if you like it that is all that matters but for the sake of discussion you can chalk me up as anti plastic engine covers.

 

I agree with him ^
Your engine bay is really clean and I think the plastic cover takes away from that.

 

So based on what is being posted on other threads, 2.5" exhaust front to back should be fine for this daily driver as well as improve my current flow? I also don't want to be taking my shifts into the 7's so mid length headers should also be plenty. I would like to see where the short length fall off.
I want to retain a quiet exhaust to keep the neighborhood happy though.

 

When I was on the m62 I had 2.5 catless downpipe and midlength header and 2.5 zzp catback with resonator and muffler. Sounds amazing. 0 rasp and the sc was so loud.

 

GM said that's consumer driven.... If it looks complex, the thought is it's going to be expensive to keep it up so cover it up.

I would like to end up with something like this even if it is from scratch. Just a touch of Carbon and color toward the back where it's plain.

 

The average consumer isn't a car enthusiast I would suppose.

 

Which is why manufacturers will continue to cover up engines.