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Thank you... It will look better once I get the wiring recovered with split loom. I am leaving it open until my TMAP shows up. Bummer that was bad but much of what I received in my kit was.
After having everything rewired, I found the dead TMAP and had to run a wire back to the MAF's IAT. Looks like hell now. I will re-loom it all once that part is in.
The new vacancy from the air box is just screaming to be filled with the overflow tank
The LE5 Cobalt has the F23 transmission as well right? If it does I'm sure you may have experienced some nasty wheel hop like is common with these setups. Just FYI if you didn't know Powell sells a rotated engine/trans mount for the front and it helps immensely. That mod combined with LCA with trailing spherical control arm bushings completely eliminated the problem for me.
The LE5 Cobalt has the F23 transmission as well right? If it does I'm sure you may have experienced some nasty wheel hop like is common with these setups. Just FYI if you didn't know Powell sells a rotated engine/trans mount for the front and it helps immensely. That mod combined with LCA with trailing spherical control arm bushings completely eliminated the problem for me.
No wheel hop in those tire tracks... I built the front chassis before the engine.
Iirc the automatic actually sits in there like it should and doesn't have the problem that we do with the F23. Wheel hop was so bad it would do it every time the tires started to slip on a launch and violent too. That is why I always try and tell F23 people who are adding power.
My MAF died quickly after relocating it to the CAI. Started randomly setting codes then finally quit all together. Maybe it was just a coincident but with a flaky TMAP (which my new one is out for delivery), you probably already know what happens when the CEL for the TMAP sets with an already dead MAF. That wheel well is not a cool place for the intake until there is air flow, in fact it appears to be hotter then the way I had it NA.
I think I am going to but some sort of duct in the bottom splash shield that will keep out water but let air flow. My hood ram air thought is starting to sound better every day.
Split my wiring looms and moved everything I could to the left. Only thing I left on the right was the VVT solenoid wiring and Transmission output shaft speed sensor. Redid all the split look also. Finally a deserving bath.
I put on a temporary clear breather hose to see how well the PCV is working before doing something permanent. So glad I ported the intake gasket so it still functions and took the valve apart and cleaned it.
I love this build, I recently purchased an LE5 SS car and would love to do what you did. Im in CO also, any tips on sourcing parts? Should I just buy the ZZP kit?
I love this build, I recently purchased an LE5 SS car and would love to do what you did. Im in CO also, any tips on sourcing parts? Should I just buy the ZZP kit?
If you have the cash you can buy the zzp kit, or if you don't mind looking for used parts then check the classifieds here or facebook.
Ok thanks, the kit doesnt seem that expensive after you look for all of the individual pieces. I need to look into the matter more closely. I appreciate the assistance!
