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So how do you guys break in your clutches initially?
normal driving, in town or anything with lots of stops and starts and shifting. do that for a week, you should be good.
just for the record, when i put my 944 together, it started for the first time, got driven around to the dyno and tuned it, no break in at all, and its holding just fine.
normal driving, in town or anything with lots of stops and starts and shifting. do that for a week, you should be good.
just for the record, when i put my 944 together, it started for the first time, got driven around to the dyno and tuned it, no break in at all, and its holding just fine.
I never broke in my first clutch because I didn't even know it was a thing and it never slipped on me. Since then I have seen posts that suggest break in is very important and you can glaze/ essentially ruin your clutch if you don't do it. I just don't want to have to take this thing apart again prematurely if I can help it.
it is wise to break them in. with metallic type discs the surface is so rigid that when new the disc wont contact all of the pressure plate and flywheel. ive have had metallic clutches back out after a very short time and you can see this in the wear patterns. the clutch needs to be worked to get it to wear evenly, and once that happens you get the most holding power.
Ive always heard 1000 miles of city driving to break in a clutch but that would take years. I just drive around, downshifting a lot and upshifting a lot for maybe 500 miles. Once i get to that point its hard to keep driving my car around without putting my foot down a few times.
Would you guys recommend replacing anything while I am in there? This car has over 100k on drivetrain. I think I am going to go ahead and replace the axles. Are ZZP's any good for F23 or stay stock? What about from wheel bearings since I have the knuckle off and everything? Bearing seems fine but if it's worth the time/money it's only three bolts. Anything else worth replacing while transmission/subframe is down that I am forgetting?
if the wheel bearings arent making noise dont bother replacing them. same with the axles, the zzp ones dont have great reviews, so id just go with good quality replacements if you have issues with the axles you have. sometimes its just best to leave some things alone.
id have a close look at your control arm bushings and sway bar bushings and end links. if your looking for some handling improvements you may consider an ss/tc front sway bar.
if the wheel bearings arent making noise dont bother replacing them. same with the axles, the zzp ones dont have great reviews, so id just go with good quality replacements if you have issues with the axles you have. sometimes its just best to leave some things alone.
id have a close look at your control arm bushings and sway bar bushings and end links. if your looking for some handling improvements you may consider an ss/tc front sway bar.
I agree with you just wanted to make sure it wasn't something that would be coming apart on me soon. Axles mainly as I have never driven easy and the last miles I have put on have been supercharged. Mainly concerned with the life of the universal joints. Anybody have any luck with aftermarket axels? OEM ACDelco axles are about 3 times the cost on rockauto.com
You have good advice on control arm bushings and sway bar though I have already taken those steps. I am running the FE5 control arm off the TC Cobalt with Powell's rear spherical bushing. Also already running the TC bar with TC 24mm bushings and adjustable powergrid end links. However, I will be removing my struts, which are YYZ springs with TC Cobalt shocks to do the Koni insert install as well as swapping in some more aggressive brake pads.
Last edited by jdbaugh1; Jan 16, 2018 at 07:49 AM.
Subframe is dropped and everything is ready to unbolt the trans and drop it out which should hopefully be completed this evening. People with F23 mated to an LSJ or familiar with the setup, will i need to remove the T-stat housing or oil cooler to remove the transmission or can I leave them in? They are kind of in the way but I would like to avoid draining the coolant and removing the oil cooler if I can.
Subframe is dropped. May even pressure wash it this time as the weather is supposed to be warmer for a couple days.
So the transmission shop that I had swap the LSD from the Cavi trans to my trans let me barrow their transmission jack which made installing it by myself so much easier. On the end you could pivot the tray on either axis to get it lined up just right before pushing it on.
This is the first time I have bled the clutch with an new empty TOB. Is it still possible to bleed via the nipple or will I have to connect a vacuum pump? People that have done vacuum pump what does that look like? I'm just wondering if air gets trapped in the TOB.
Also be filling fresh with RedLine ATF Dexcool 6 fluid. I think it calls for 1.8 quarts. Do I just carefully measure out the fluid before filling or is there any sort of indicator when it is full?
its sort of a crapshoot bleeding it without a vacuum pump, if you work at it long enough you will get the air out of the TOB, but a vacuum bleeder will speed up the process.
when your filling it with fluid remove the plug on the end of the transmission by the diff, its about half way up the case. thats the fill plug, you want to fill the trans with oil till it starts coming out of that hole.
So car is all back together and when driving it to work this morning I noticed a grinding noise when decelerating at higher rpm. I do have new clutch, flywheel, and TOB. Any ideas?
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