Brake Bias Adjustment
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From: Concord, CA
Brake Bias Adjustment
So, with the car being stripped in the rear, and now with the LSJ brake kit, its a little rear brake happy, especially when fuel is low. We are considering adding a brake bias knob in the cockpit so I can adjust them as we go.
Has anyone done this in the cobalt yet? just wondering if anyone else out there has and can share part numbers or advice before we dive into it. Thanks.
Has anyone done this in the cobalt yet? just wondering if anyone else out there has and can share part numbers or advice before we dive into it. Thanks.
I will be doing this soon. just a knob in the bay, not remoted to the cabin. Its the same concept, but without the adjustment cable/knob extended to the bay.
it's going to require ditching the X failsafe split, and going front rear split.
The front lines will be easy to re run, but the rears will require the 2 lines to be T'd together at some point. Im probably going to T them at the rear of the car and run a new single line up front. Trying to re flare and T the rear lines up front will be a huge hassle. Technically the fronts need to be joined as well, but I plan on using a bias valve with dual front outs, so the valve itself will be the T. The rears all have one output. there are a few different valve configurations you can use, so just look into what is available.
Keep in mind our cars use 3/16 lines and m10x1.0 nuts. Most valves come in 3/8 24? i believe. There are a few metric single in/out valves, but the selection is extremely limited. This is another reason I am just going to re run lines. It's not optimal with 2 sized threads, but it won't be a problem if you stay organized
You could technically try and finagle the lines where they meet the factory bias valve/block and get it to work, but thats a halfass way to do it imo.
Look into nickel copper line. it's supposed to be much easier to bend and flare, but DOT approved and just as strong as steel lines, but corrosion resistant without coating. Just buy a big spool and practice your double flares before you start. That is what I plan on using
it's going to require ditching the X failsafe split, and going front rear split.
The front lines will be easy to re run, but the rears will require the 2 lines to be T'd together at some point. Im probably going to T them at the rear of the car and run a new single line up front. Trying to re flare and T the rear lines up front will be a huge hassle. Technically the fronts need to be joined as well, but I plan on using a bias valve with dual front outs, so the valve itself will be the T. The rears all have one output. there are a few different valve configurations you can use, so just look into what is available.
Keep in mind our cars use 3/16 lines and m10x1.0 nuts. Most valves come in 3/8 24? i believe. There are a few metric single in/out valves, but the selection is extremely limited. This is another reason I am just going to re run lines. It's not optimal with 2 sized threads, but it won't be a problem if you stay organized
You could technically try and finagle the lines where they meet the factory bias valve/block and get it to work, but thats a halfass way to do it imo.
Look into nickel copper line. it's supposed to be much easier to bend and flare, but DOT approved and just as strong as steel lines, but corrosion resistant without coating. Just buy a big spool and practice your double flares before you start. That is what I plan on using
Last edited by 07blackg5; Jun 9, 2015 at 10:49 PM.
Brake line
JEGS Performance Products 635800, JEGS NiCopp Nickel Copper Brake Lines | JEGS Performance Products
This is what I plan on using for a valve, vs a single in/out. I know you want to remote the knob, but that wont be necessary for my needs
JEGS Performance Products 635800, JEGS NiCopp Nickel Copper Brake Lines | JEGS Performance Products
This is what I plan on using for a valve, vs a single in/out. I know you want to remote the knob, but that wont be necessary for my needs
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