You do, Prothane did this on the "J-Body" (Cavalier) bushings, the vibs went down, but the bushings deformed over time. Causing movement to come back.

 

yes im the one who acts childish... you win aaron

 

Sorry to thread jack, but what is the proper way to install the Ingalls? Is there a certain ft/lbs you tighten all the bolts so it's not overly tight and bend? I'm in the market for one and am just curious.

 

It is not the "brackets to the engine or frame bolts/nuts torque spec"

Some believe it is adjusting the "strut" improper, adjusting it while it is on the car is a big "no no". However, some have had it at the stock setting, no adjustments (at least stated this way) and it still bent.

 

Straight Information nothing more nothing less:

Ingalls first generation mounts had issues with bending the brackets.
The new versions no longer have this issue due to heavier brackets and stronger frame.
The vast majority of all Ingalls have never had problems with many users having 3 yrs on them.

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TTR has great solid engine mounts that hold up and do the job.
Never seen complaints from there product.

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Pros vs Cons

Ingalls
Pro:
Ingalls you can pull off the car in 2 minutes and back on in 2 minutes making it easy to take to dealership for warranty work

Stiffnes can be adjusted at any time so set to the demands you need.

Con:

Not as strong as solid mounts.


TTR Solid mount:
Pro:
Keeps engine from moving better than ingalls.

Looks less suspicous in engine bay.

Con:
Vibrates the car like an old muscle car (might be a pro if thats your thing)

Is not adjustable



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There so can we stop arguing?
Both are good products.

 

Common sense prevails . . , finally!

 

The brackets have to be installed straight and parallel , they can't be angled away from each other at all. That is what was bending them , when they aren't parallel with one another the strut will bind between the brackets forcing them away from each other, bending them side to side where they aren't designed to be strong.

When the brackets are lined up right , and the strut is adjusted correctly ...the force goes straight back towards the firewall so the brackets have no side pressure on them at all, that is where the strength is .

Well this ramble prolly won't make sense to most , but hopefully it helps some.

 

Just my 2 cents but you guys have nearly nothing for 2008-2009 SS\TC's

 

ottp mounts. /end thread

 

I've heard that they will deform over time as well , just the nature of the material they are made of. I've had it at the track a few times and have had them in for almost a year now and I still am rid of wheel hop while running more power than when i started. For the price of them I don't even care if I have to replace them every so often.

 

thats becuase it just hit the market.. everybody is soo impatient

not to mention what are you looking for? as far as the TC goes?

 

i had my ingals no problem for a whilleeeee now but I do want to go with the motor mount when i sell my ingals. so quick question motor mount will take out the wheel hop like the ingals does correct?

 

the vendors IMO have been making good progress already... air intake, cracking the computer little by little, turbo swap, intercooler, charge pipping... i mean what else are you looking for



want the wheel hop gone.... go to OTTP and get the Reverse mounts..ill keep saying it... end of story

 

why do people have to blow **** up like this really? ok i understand your giving you opinions my fellow cobalt people but to bash a company about one little effin thing? that's just plain stupid and watch if some of us keep it up all the good deals go away. sorry aaron you gotta hear all this stuff about the company you work for. i have my stiff on correct but im going to buy my solid motor mount after my little daughter is born. enough said. lock this thread. besides even if he said you should buy it because some tend to bend is just a-ok in my book. all this person had to do in the first place is say oh ok perhaps later on. but NOOOOO always gotta blow stuff out of context. im tired of this bs. just leave it as it is please.

 

i had a toruque damper on my old car and never bent the brakets or anything like that
but the motor mount is better reason being cuz the damper acts like a shock/damper so it'll eventualy go out

 

^^ok?

 

i had my ingalls on for 3 years and almost 60k miles, until i did the turbo conversion and didn't have anymore room for it, i had solid mounts as well. the only thing i see as a problem with stiffening the upper mount is nobody addresses the otherside being the top tranny mount(it's hard as hell to get to) but if your gonna stiffen up just one side then what kind of stresses are you putting on the other top mount? and is it causing the motor and tranny to twist to one side? i say just stick with the lower tranny mounts and leave the top two mounts alone till someone comes out with a suitable upgrade for the top tranny mount. just my .02

 

i can haz cheezburger?

 

lol ill look into that but with my td I DONT have any wheel hop lol thats y I wanna make sure its gonna be thte same with the mount if I was to get it if not ill keep the td

 

most people probably don't know about the other mount. i've had people call me an idiot, and say there's no mount there, what am i retarded?

i would buy it if there was an upgraded drivers side mount.