The OFFICIAL Coilover Thread
04-18-2013, 01:49 AM
#230
I removed metal from the inside of the fender well and made it wider so my tires wouldn't rub when I went full lock. Took a good chunk out of my front tires before I had the chance to tub the front end. lol it's not really needed until the tires start to rub unibody. Only other person that had to do it besides me was Mike.
04-20-2013, 09:59 PM
#232
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so you have a base model? it all depends on what size wheels/tires you have too...
my LS with Megan Racing Street Series coilovers all the way down WITH lock rings still installed and 205/60/15 tires... on this set-up i have about 1 finger gap up front and 1.5/2 finger gap out back, any lower and i would need rotated trans mounts to help my axles although i might get them anyway
my LS with Megan Racing Street Series coilovers all the way down WITH lock rings still installed and 205/60/15 tires... on this set-up i have about 1 finger gap up front and 1.5/2 finger gap out back, any lower and i would need rotated trans mounts to help my axles although i might get them anyway
my wheels are 205'35 i think or something like that with rim size 17. its a low pro tire. top of tire is maybe 2.25 inches from top of rim. i know that much for sure. im jsut looking to go as low as possible without rubbing
04-20-2013, 10:19 PM
#233
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if your tires are 205/35/17 you're going to have a little more wheel gap than me because even with a 17" wheel that size is a smaller radius than stock, which means your speedometer/odometer are off more than the recommended numbers as well. but you will technically be lower, i'm more about less wheel gap than actually being lower
04-20-2013, 10:50 PM
#234
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if your tires are 205/35/17 you're going to have a little more wheel gap than me because even with a 17" wheel that size is a smaller radius than stock, which means your speedometer/odometer are off more than the recommended numbers as well. but you will technically be lower, i'm more about less wheel gap than actually being lower
i think thaTS what it is. i know the second number is 35/r17 jus tnot sure about first one. but the overall diameter is same as stock. im looking to close the gap as well but hoping to go lower too at same time
04-23-2013, 04:15 PM
#236
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i just recieved some B&G rear adjustable shocks. What level do I set it at (1-12) for stiffness if i have them maxed out lowered?
i was thinking somewhere aound 4 since i am using H&R sport springs on my tc.....
i was thinking somewhere aound 4 since i am using H&R sport springs on my tc.....
04-26-2013, 05:52 PM
#237
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???
So I was walking across the street the other day and these were just lying on the ground.
And by walking I meant I ordered them, and by lying on the ground I meant that I picked them up from Alan @ TH Motorsports.
And by walking I meant I ordered them, and by lying on the ground I meant that I picked them up from Alan @ TH Motorsports.
05-01-2013, 04:24 PM
#239
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Not sure. I measured from the pinch weld at the jack points and it was currently ~7.5-7.75 inches.
I am happy with that distance.
Just curious is there a standard place to measure on this forums when referring to ride height?
I am happy with that distance.
Just curious is there a standard place to measure on this forums when referring to ride height?
05-06-2013, 11:57 AM
#243
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Question...
With my stance's in the rear come some springs. With said springs there is a threaded body with two collars on them. With my car's rear jacked up, do I just thread them up to help keep the springs from coming off with the control arm fully drooping? Should there be preload?
Sorry, but I did search and couldn't find an definitive answer, or maybe I wasn't phrasing the question correctly.
I've already adjusted the shock body for ride height, I just want to make sure that I am not over/under compressing the springs.
Also curious, what would happen if I lowered the car without the springs on? Would that just slam the shocks down completely and be a big no no?
*****
So I decided to get the cojones up and just jack the car up and start tinkering...
1 day later I got everything installed and it rides great at neutral adjustments. I also installed some powergrid endlinks while I was at it.
I will upload some photos later. I actually found that the one of the front left upper strut mount bolts was loose and just spinning inside the top portion.
That made for a effing wonderful time removing the old strut.
With my stance's in the rear come some springs. With said springs there is a threaded body with two collars on them. With my car's rear jacked up, do I just thread them up to help keep the springs from coming off with the control arm fully drooping? Should there be preload?
Sorry, but I did search and couldn't find an definitive answer, or maybe I wasn't phrasing the question correctly.
I've already adjusted the shock body for ride height, I just want to make sure that I am not over/under compressing the springs.
Also curious, what would happen if I lowered the car without the springs on? Would that just slam the shocks down completely and be a big no no?
*****
So I decided to get the cojones up and just jack the car up and start tinkering...
1 day later I got everything installed and it rides great at neutral adjustments. I also installed some powergrid endlinks while I was at it.
I will upload some photos later. I actually found that the one of the front left upper strut mount bolts was loose and just spinning inside the top portion.
That made for a effing wonderful time removing the old strut.
Last edited by EvilBananaWind; 05-08-2013 at 12:50 PM. Reason: Finished installing coilovers.
05-09-2013, 03:46 PM
#244
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Quick question: If I were to buy koni struts and then i bought a coil over system that didnt include struts like ground control or something, how would they compare to the complete coilover systems like stance, ksport and D2?
Last edited by Manopka; 05-09-2013 at 03:52 PM.
05-14-2013, 01:40 PM
#246
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This was according to Stance directly. Spoke with Mike on the phone there.
****edit
Just spoke with John over at stance and he said you could also install an alternate way.
Same as before, let car sit just on springs, adjust the collars on the set piece for ride height, then jack up the rear control arm so that you have roughly 1" of spring compression.
Install the shock.
Repeat for the other side.
The shocks should be fully uncompressed when installing AARON. Shoot me a private message if you want me to explain in more detail. I just performed this procedure within the last week.
Last edited by EvilBananaWind; 05-14-2013 at 10:22 PM.
06-23-2013, 08:23 AM
#250
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Does anyone have an opinion on which brand has the best ride quality? I do NOT want it so stiff it rattles my teeth whenever I go over a bump. I like the Stance because of it has the adjustment for the ride height. I want to be a little lower (and definitely level), but I am not going to be slammed or running tons of negative camber. I have Kbee coilovers on my Trailblazer SS and it rides better than stock so I'd like to go the same route here. It was a little easier to choose a brand for the Trailblazer because there's only two to pick from!