Replacement spindle for 2007 SS / SC? Same as all?
Replacement spindle for 2007 SS / SC? Same as all?
I broke the upper part of my spindle. I have a few at work, but they are from non-SS cars. Just from the looks of it, it appears as if its aluminum compared to cast, is that the case?
I just want to make sure I am about to buy the right part.
Here is one statement from CSS.net:
3. Knuckles are the same on every suspension up through 2007. In 2008, the FE5 knuckle was updated with various improvements for bump steer. It is NOT interchangeable. You can still use the GM Racing knuckles for those earlier years
Now when I look for a replacement knuckle online, I get stuff like this:
05 06 07 08 09 10 COBALT R. FRT SPINDLE/KNUCKLE EXC. SS
Is it saying that it excludes ALL SS MODELS or just the 08-09 SS models?
I am 99% positive that I am in need of a new spindle and hub ONLY from an 05-07 SS but if I should be looking at other spindles, will someone please let me know.
Thanks.
I just want to make sure I am about to buy the right part.
Here is one statement from CSS.net:
3. Knuckles are the same on every suspension up through 2007. In 2008, the FE5 knuckle was updated with various improvements for bump steer. It is NOT interchangeable. You can still use the GM Racing knuckles for those earlier years
Now when I look for a replacement knuckle online, I get stuff like this:
05 06 07 08 09 10 COBALT R. FRT SPINDLE/KNUCKLE EXC. SS
Is it saying that it excludes ALL SS MODELS or just the 08-09 SS models?
I am 99% positive that I am in need of a new spindle and hub ONLY from an 05-07 SS but if I should be looking at other spindles, will someone please let me know.
Thanks.
You've pretty much got the idea. There are 2 different knuckles, or spindles, in all of cobaltdom. There's the specialized LNF knuckles which are great and then there's everything else. As long as what you're looking at isn't from a TC, 08-10, youre good to go
actually....there's lnf knuckles, gmpp knuckles, lsj/le5 (fe3/fe5) knuckles and fe1 knuckles.
lnf knuckles will not fit due to the ball joint being larger
lnf knuckles will not fit due to the ball joint being larger
Last edited by rustledjimmies; Mar 30, 2012 at 03:09 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Alright, more misinformation here.
You need either the LSJ SS or GMPP/racing knuckles.
The GMPP knuckles are beefed up in the upper portion, right below the lower strut bolt for exactly the reason your's broke.
I have several stock LSJ SS knuckles I could send your way if you want them, but I do not have a spare set of GMPP knuckles.
The ball joint size is 1mm different on the LNF control arms. This is easily fixed by reaming out the ball joint hole on LSJ style knuckles. However, the bolt pattern for the wheel bearing/hub assembly is completely different on LNF knuckles, so, you still couldn't use them without swapping a lot more unnecessary and costly components.
You need either the LSJ SS or GMPP/racing knuckles.
The GMPP knuckles are beefed up in the upper portion, right below the lower strut bolt for exactly the reason your's broke.
I have several stock LSJ SS knuckles I could send your way if you want them, but I do not have a spare set of GMPP knuckles.
The ball joint size is 1mm different on the LNF control arms. This is easily fixed by reaming out the ball joint hole on LSJ style knuckles. However, the bolt pattern for the wheel bearing/hub assembly is completely different on LNF knuckles, so, you still couldn't use them without swapping a lot more unnecessary and costly components.
Wow. Thanks for the correct information. How much for one shipped to ohio, and are they new or used?
Also, are all beam rear axles the same minus the rear stub axles and hub?
Also, are all beam rear axles the same minus the rear stub axles and hub?
Gmpp knuckles were never stock so I omitted them and theres no difference between all the rest, LSJ through FE1. Listing them separately adds to his initial confusion
Beams are different mainly due to the weld in sway bars. LSJ has 22 mm LNF has a 24 mm. Don't know the FE1/FE3 bars off the top of my head but suffice to say they're much smaller
Yes add on rear sways work for all balt beams. Progress is a bad choice though as its not very effective. The best bars are made by Powell race shop, you can find them in my friends list in my profile
The deal is only with the powell bars (and the ottp bars) does the bar itself bolt directly to the beam, all the others have bracketry that reduces the bars effectiveness by warping and in eibachs case one guy had his break at the attachment point. Plus no other bars go as big as the powells, you have a choice between 1", 1.25" and 1.5" (which I have and love). On a fwd the rear bar should be as big as you feel you can handle
Dude seriously get the **** outta here you ignorant troll. Im trying to get serious helpful information and all youre doing is talking ****. Let this dude help other people out.
wow i had no idea the beams were different. i thought they were the same for all cobalts. so what's the difference between the ss/sc beam and the ss/tc beam?
what if you welded some plates of chrome moly steel onto the beam? wouldn't that work just as well as a sway bar?
what if you welded some plates of chrome moly steel onto the beam? wouldn't that work just as well as a sway bar?
I'm pretty sure the physical beam is the same, and only the spindle/stub axles and brakes are different. If you look at rear sway bars, they fit every cobalt regardless of year.
The size of the weld in sway bar, 22 mm sc vs 24 mm tc
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