I know who's car that is. I've made a few videos for him and have a few more on the way.

Here I am at Time Attack shooting video.


OMG 1lbs, So whats one pound added up over and over again... Laugh all you want but in the end he as CF parts covering his car and it cost him $0.00...being a great driver and proving it on the the track his its benefits.

I was over at Ryan's garage while he was grinding out every spot weld he could find to in the end save just a few more pounds. He had a pile of small metal chunks he had be removing for a few days from the interior frame of the car. He kept everything he took out and put it on a scale, I think last I saw he was at around 50lbs and that was just from a few days work.

I'm sure his free carbon ceramic brake kit (coming soon) are something to laugh at too....you don't even want to know the price of those

 

lol no better brakes make you stop better. but i was just laughing at the fact that if someone bought a roof for 1200 to save 1 lb its pretty dumb

 

I think the CF roof was stronger too.....and allowed the stock interior roof liner to be used again if wanted.

 

Stronger would be safer, better in a rollover and most likely be reusable.

 

So you are saying, purchase a VDub plate and modify the strut tower to install it? Which VDub one, there's a few listed.

Camber Plate - Volkswagen A2, A3 (Golf)
Camber/Caster Plate - VW/Audi, A4 Chassis
Top Mount Camber/Caster Plate VW

 

So you are saying, purchase a VDub plate and modify the strut tower to install it? Which VDub one, there's a few listed.

Camber Plate - Volkswagen A2, A3 (Golf)
Camber/Caster Plate - VW/Audi, A4 Chassis
Top Mount Camber/Caster Plate VW

 

I am sure you do know whose car it is, I was just eltting other people since it really is a pretty serious piece.

Yeah being a rolling AMS catalog is obviously sweet, but that doesnt change the fact that a $1200+ investment for 1lb saving on anything street driven is just utterly silly.

removing material is one thing, its free, thats exactly what I was talking about....thats great, its the perfect way to get your car light, its your idea that a $3500 roof is a good investment, or worthwhile in any way other than cosmetic/bragging rights for anything short of a full on track only monster, and the further opinion that anything other than the original one(the "real deal") is somehow subpar that i was having issue with. And of course lets not forget that a carbon roof unless youre talking about a single less than 1mm thick sheet, is NOT the lightest option, so it just makes it even more absurd.

Ceramic race brake are nothing to laugh,(Ive sent out pricing bids on full Brembo Ceramic kits before, so doubt Id be shocked) I would love a nice set of Brembo Ceramics that fit on the Balt properly.


Safer? Not imo, a carbo roof can fracture/disintegrate on impact in ways a metal one wont, potentially causing driver or bystander harm. And reusable? ROFLMFAO

 

email or pm for details. I have a couple in stock. worth the effort if thats what you think you need. IMHO totally not needed for a street/track car....kinda like adjustable coil overs...needs the strut tower hole enlarged, 4 bolt holes drilled instead of the three it has, and I have not figured out what it would take to hook up the top of the TC strut as the gc plate sits higher; for racing its easy the coil overs have longer shafts....

 

Cool thanks John! Didn't think it was necessary but still wanted to look into it. It's alot of work for like you say a Street/Track car. I'm thinking just simple Camber bolts at the struts will give me more than enough.

 

Getting back to the rear bar :-)))
I help a guy who goes to Watkins Glen for track days with a turbo.
The 1" bar arrived Friday and we installed it on Sat night.
The car was on jack stands for other work so the install took just about 5 minutes, and durning that time my daughter called from Chi-Town so I was working with one hand.

The point is that this bar FIT'S THE CAR.

It takes a good set up jig to bend a 1" bar into a U shape with a offset, weld in 4 boss's for bolts to line up with 4 holes in the lower control arms of a production car.
Anyone can produce a part that comes close to fitting.
To make a part fit PERFECT is a real job that takes skill at a higher level.

If anyone wanted to do their FIRST upgrade and had NEVER worked on a car before installing this bar would be a very good first project.

I think a skinny guy could install this bar WITHOUT jacking the car up

Lower control arms are out of car waiting for a number of parts.

 

can be done. did it by myself without jack on lowered car. just set it on some boxes and squeezed under. did wack my head good though on the ground.

 

Thanks for letting everyone know that the bar can be installed without a jack.
At least you didn't get any blood on the car.

I'll be in Chicago for the IRL race and Bono

 

Ill be installing this very soon and I went last night for a quick test fit and yeah if you arent too big you can do it with out jacking the car but its kinda tight.

 

It's tight without a Jack but possible. I was at the Track a week ago, I'm running the 1.25 right now. Was raining so had to pull it off. 5 minutes on the ground and out she comes!

Definitely a very good product!

 

How crazy was the big bar in the rain ??????
The guy I'm helping got the 1" but may be able to try the 1.25" at the track if everything works out.

 

I was on a damp track with it on. it just slips around alot more.

 

I think I saw that Turbo at the glen in May the guy looked very quick. My car had terminal battery issues...then. The turbo will be quicker still. the 1.25 maybe too much through the bus stop but would really be neat up the hill right hander on the toe boot whatever they call it sequence. OTTP really sweat the details doncha know...

 

I got the HC OTTP bar on...wow thing is awesome. I wrote a "how to" with pics etc, emailed it to OTTP and have it awaiting authorization on this site. I know its easy but hey theres noobs.

 

good for you northvibe...dont forget to torque 30 - 35 ft lbs.....

 

I dont have a torq wrench :s so I just torq'd them hand tight.

 

I installed my 1.0 bar myself... is there any special way (position) the brackets are supposed to be? or is it kinda just line up the holes? and I did it without jacking the car up but I am skinny and on pro-kit springs lol

 

gutentite then...check 'em again sumtime

 

Great job on the bar.

That was him in the red turbo, and he did see your car stopped on the track.

The bar should help and he hopes to have the lower control bushings replaced before the next track day.
We have the lower control arms out now for the bushing replacement and he is getting some duct from a airplane carb heater to try and get started on the cooling duct's.

Let us know when you will be at the Glen so we can do dinner at Mr. Chicken

 

ohhhh for sure. My ms3's rsb had 1 bolt get loose after a week or two...

 

August 16 5 pm glen motor inn track days 17 18. My brake ducts use 3.25 red silicone hose and a plastic intermediate duct and a duct backing plate in 60 61, with floating rotors 28 mm x 315 (stock are 26mm x 315. The rotor vents are awesome...(OTTP can get them for you ) shameless plug