Suspenson basics 101.
FE5 are the suspension parts that are on the SS/SC and TC. FE3 are on the 2.4L and FE1 are on the 2.2L. The FE5 are the best out of the three and can be put on the other two models. They should be able to take more strain than the FE1 parts. You already have the FE5 components on your car.
Koni's are the best for lowered Balts.
Koni's are the best for lowered Balts.
I get it that the stockers will die...but the FE5's I 've heard of folks putting quite a few miles on with say Eibach sportlines and not killing the struts and shocks.....anybody have testimony that kills this?
How are the Cobalt-Addiction Springs? Anybody install and run these just yet?
How are the Cobalt-Addiction Springs? Anybody install and run these just yet?
In all fairness, I grew up in NH and I know the roads up there ane FAR from smooth. I would never think of lowering something there. Most cars with stock suspension wear out fast there due to the salt used in the winter and huge dips, bumps, potholes and such that are on all the roads. I moved back there in 2004 and for the 3 years I was there, everywhere I drove the roads were like washboards. I would dare to say they are some of the worst roads in the country.
All Cobalt take the same springs. If you put "LS" drop springs in your SS you wont get the same drop listed for the LS, thats because your car is already lower.
What Maven is saying is that the aftermarket doesn't make different springs for LS's versus SS's. Eibach Sportlines are quite low and have been proven to work well.
Just checking to see how long stuts and shocks are lasting with the Eibach lowering springs on an SS/SC. I've heard of folks not having issues while others say you need to upgrade. Thoughts......
They will last a good long time. I'm at nearly 40K miles on my original FE1 struts and shocks, but they will be due in spring.
How do you plan to drive the car? Coilovers are for racing cars where adjustability is desired. If it's a street car, just stick with springs. Coilovers are very expensive for a car that just drives on the street and will never adjust anything.
Hey, Why are Konis so expensive?! They are struts correct?
also, if i get some koni's i should also get some lowering springs?
bump... did some more research. So Koni sport struts and some springs are lookin like the way too go.. for less than a set of coilovers, and giving better day to day drivability and easy adjustment
i think i know what ill be ordering very shortly....
also, if i get some koni's i should also get some lowering springs?
bump... did some more research. So Koni sport struts and some springs are lookin like the way too go.. for less than a set of coilovers, and giving better day to day drivability and easy adjustment
i think i know what ill be ordering very shortly....
Last edited by Hunter2Hitman; May 11, 2009 at 08:44 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Hey, Why are Konis so expensive?! They are struts correct?
also, if i get some koni's i should also get some lowering springs?
bump... did some more research. So Koni sport struts and some springs are lookin like the way too go.. for less than a set of coilovers, and giving better day to day drivability and easy adjustment
i think i know what ill be ordering very shortly....
also, if i get some koni's i should also get some lowering springs?
bump... did some more research. So Koni sport struts and some springs are lookin like the way too go.. for less than a set of coilovers, and giving better day to day drivability and easy adjustment
i think i know what ill be ordering very shortly....
Just in my mind it is lowered and stressing all of the suspension I would think, also for harder cornering I thought it would have a bigger stress on them.....so why are there bigger/thicker sway bar end links out there? I.E what is the benefit of the mod? Add them when you are pushing more power?
Halfcent thanks so much for answering all my questions too man! :-)
Halfcent thanks so much for answering all my questions too man! :-)
You have a misconception. Lowering springs do not cause any additional stress to the car. They can wear out your dampers a little faster, but that's it.
Heavier sway bar parts are designed to reduce the amount of body roll in cornering. Bigger bars means less sway. They also mean a less comfortable ride when not cornering. Its a balance between comfort and performance.
Heavier sway bar parts are designed to reduce the amount of body roll in cornering. Bigger bars means less sway. They also mean a less comfortable ride when not cornering. Its a balance between comfort and performance.
Very uneven pavement can "activate" the bar, but driving straight doesnt.
Bigger front endlinks are stiffer, they flex less, less flex means the antiroll system works better.
You have a misconception, a bigger sway bar doesnt affect wheel rate/ride quality when you arent turning or are on smooth pavement. 
Very uneven pavement can "activate" the bar, but driving straight doesnt.
Bigger front endlinks are stiffer, they flex less, less flex means the antiroll system works better.
Very uneven pavement can "activate" the bar, but driving straight doesnt.
Bigger front endlinks are stiffer, they flex less, less flex means the antiroll system works better.



