Ttr Sway Bar
No one makes them for us. We are the direct manufacture and seller.
So I was asking you if you guys were the ones who made the part.
Any type of product warranty with it. I am considering this and Id like to add my name to the list. I can have the money by friday...when i get paid.
Hmm shipping......lol ****, gotta pay for that too.
Please research before you post, those 3MM thicker means it is 66% stronger! It is like night and day difference.... It is call torsional forces, the larger the diameter the faster the amount of torsional force it can take.
Not at all checkout the group purchase/vendor special forum for the discount code.
There are a lot of Newbies that dont know what they are talking about, research, and listen to those who have been around a while.
Not at all checkout the group purchase/vendor special forum for the discount code.
There are a lot of Newbies that dont know what they are talking about, research, and listen to those who have been around a while.
Please dont talk down to me. I was giving the opinion of myself and others that I know. I was in no way bashing your product, so you had no need to bash me. Maybe you should do some research and understand that torque is calculated using the distance from the axis to where the force is applied. From an engineers stand point, the distance from the axis, or the support that is already on the underside of our car, to the springs where your sway bar attaches is quite minimal. The amount of torque decrease you will see will not be substantial. It is not that you did not build a quality piece, it is that the piece does little to help with combating torque.
Being EACH side is bolted to the trailing are with two bolts, acts as a "lever" to the long connected "torsional" bar that is between them, doing everything you just stated it didnt do.
Also you stated 3MM does nothing, if you really new or had a mechanical engineering degree you could take the difference of a 22mm and a 25.4mm solid torsional bar and find out it was 66% stronger.
What is minimal to you may not be to others, but to many 66% stronger is a very good improvment for only 3mm. Also as this is the same way GM has used on some of their Auto X tuned up cars. I dont think you would second guess them would you?
Being a mechanical engineering grad student, there is no need to explain. We know what we are doing and you obviously dont have any knowledge on how this product works or was designed. Not saying you dont know how, just maybe you dont see the full concept of how it functions.
Being EACH side is bolted to the trailing are with two bolts, acts as a "lever" to the long connected "torsional" bar that is between them, doing everything you just stated it didnt do.
Also you stated 3MM does nothing, if you really new or had a mechanical engineering degree you could take the difference of a 22mm and a 25.4mm solid torsional bar and find out it was 66% stronger.
What is minimal to you may not be to others, but to many 66% stronger is a very good improvment for only 3mm. Also as this is the same way GM has used on some of their Auto X tuned up cars. I dont think you would second guess them would you?
Being EACH side is bolted to the trailing are with two bolts, acts as a "lever" to the long connected "torsional" bar that is between them, doing everything you just stated it didnt do.
Also you stated 3MM does nothing, if you really new or had a mechanical engineering degree you could take the difference of a 22mm and a 25.4mm solid torsional bar and find out it was 66% stronger.
What is minimal to you may not be to others, but to many 66% stronger is a very good improvment for only 3mm. Also as this is the same way GM has used on some of their Auto X tuned up cars. I dont think you would second guess them would you?


a rear sway bar is probably my favorite handling mod to date. springs made the car sit nice but the rear sway bar is what made the most improvement in handling.
if someone says its worthless, they probably have no first hand experience.
if someone says its worthless, they probably have no first hand experience.
I think Aaron knows what he is talking about for 1 they made and produced there Motor mounts there at there facility so why would they buy some other sway bars when they can make them just like they did there mounts
Being a mechanical engineering grad student, there is no need to explain. We know what we are doing and you obviously dont have any knowledge on how this product works or was designed. Not saying you dont know how, just maybe you dont see the full concept of how it functions.
Being EACH side is bolted to the trailing are with two bolts, acts as a "lever" to the long connected "torsional" bar that is between them, doing everything you just stated it didnt do.
Also you stated 3MM does nothing, if you really new or had a mechanical engineering degree you could take the difference of a 22mm and a 25.4mm solid torsional bar and find out it was 66% stronger.
What is minimal to you may not be to others, but to many 66% stronger is a very good improvment for only 3mm. Also as this is the same way GM has used on some of their Auto X tuned up cars. I dont think you would second guess them would you?
Being EACH side is bolted to the trailing are with two bolts, acts as a "lever" to the long connected "torsional" bar that is between them, doing everything you just stated it didnt do.
Also you stated 3MM does nothing, if you really new or had a mechanical engineering degree you could take the difference of a 22mm and a 25.4mm solid torsional bar and find out it was 66% stronger.
What is minimal to you may not be to others, but to many 66% stronger is a very good improvment for only 3mm. Also as this is the same way GM has used on some of their Auto X tuned up cars. I dont think you would second guess them would you?
People on here only get bashed when there opinion is different than the majority. I never told anyone not to buy the product, I never said anything bad about the product, I simply stated an opinion.
Sway bars in general are not worthless, on this car they dont do much.
Last edited by thekingsSS; Apr 23, 2008 at 06:09 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I didnt say that the 3mm does nothing, I said the SHAPE does nothing. Its the shape that is faulty, and it is faulty because there is no need for a sway bar on these cars. Every post I have made is about the shape.
People on here only get bashed when there opinion is different than the majority. I never told anyone not to buy the product, I never said anything bad about the product, I simply stated an opinion.
I never said they bought some other sway bar, I said it was the same design.
Ill take the advice of a 47 year old mechanic with 25 years of racing experience
I experienced a sway bar first hand for about 7 months, and experienced 0 (zero) difference in handling when I took it off.
Sway bars in general are not worthless, on this car they dont do much.
People on here only get bashed when there opinion is different than the majority. I never told anyone not to buy the product, I never said anything bad about the product, I simply stated an opinion.
I never said they bought some other sway bar, I said it was the same design.
Ill take the advice of a 47 year old mechanic with 25 years of racing experience
I experienced a sway bar first hand for about 7 months, and experienced 0 (zero) difference in handling when I took it off.
Sway bars in general are not worthless, on this car they dont do much.
I didnt say that the 3mm does nothing, I said the SHAPE does nothing. Its the shape that is faulty, and it is faulty because there is no need for a sway bar on these cars. Every post I have made is about the shape.
People on here only get bashed when there opinion is different than the majority. I never told anyone not to buy the product, I never said anything bad about the product, I simply stated an opinion.
I never said they bought some other sway bar, I said it was the same design.
Ill take the advice of a 47 year old mechanic with 25 years of racing experience
I experienced a sway bar first hand for about 7 months, and experienced 0 (zero) difference in handling when I took it off.
Sway bars in general are not worthless, on this car they dont do much.
People on here only get bashed when there opinion is different than the majority. I never told anyone not to buy the product, I never said anything bad about the product, I simply stated an opinion.
I never said they bought some other sway bar, I said it was the same design.
Ill take the advice of a 47 year old mechanic with 25 years of racing experience
I experienced a sway bar first hand for about 7 months, and experienced 0 (zero) difference in handling when I took it off.
Sway bars in general are not worthless, on this car they dont do much.
It seems to me like you just will not admit when you are wrong... A sway bar is ment to decrease body roll, its doesn't make the springs stiffer, or the tires grip better. Thats why you didn't notice a "handeling" differance after you took it off.
I think he is the only one that will disagree.
Last edited by YSUsteven; Apr 23, 2008 at 06:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I have the progress bar and I know that it makes a big diferance in the body roll. I noticed when test driving my car after install. I noticed it even more when I rode in a similar cobalt without one. The other passenger also noticed the big differance.
It seems to me like you just will not admit when you are wrong... A sway bar is ment to decrease body roll, its doesn't make the springs stiffer, or the tires grip better. Thats why you didn't notice a "handeling" differance after you took it off.
I think he is the only one that will disagree.
It seems to me like you just will not admit when you are wrong... A sway bar is ment to decrease body roll, its doesn't make the springs stiffer, or the tires grip better. Thats why you didn't notice a "handeling" differance after you took it off.
I think he is the only one that will disagree.
I guess I'll join in on the wrong side. I'm not going to argue because I don't have an engineering degree and I haven't tried a rear sway bar on my car. I am an ASE certified master mechanic and all my experience with suspensions and swaybars tells me that a sway bar has to be attatched to the body with bushings in order to control body roll. Now, Aaron was nice enough to explain their design to me and how the mounting being with two bolts creates a lever effect and I was able to see how their bar would work. I'm sure that a reputable company wouldn't be out there selling stuff that just plain doesn't work. That's not how businesses stay alive. I can see how someone would think that there's no way the bar would work because I was one of them. Now, I can see how it would work and I put my name on the list. Unfortunately work has been slow and I don't think that I will have the money to actually order one. I would love to see how much it actually changes the feel of the car. Maybe someday.
I didnt say that the 3mm does nothing, I said the SHAPE does nothing. Its the shape that is faulty, and it is faulty because there is no need for a sway bar on these cars. Every post I have made is about the shape.
People on here only get bashed when there opinion is different than the majority. I never told anyone not to buy the product, I never said anything bad about the product, I simply stated an opinion.
I never said they bought some other sway bar, I said it was the same design.
Ill take the advice of a 47 year old mechanic with 25 years of racing experience
I experienced a sway bar first hand for about 7 months, and experienced 0 (zero) difference in handling when I took it off.
Sway bars in general are not worthless, on this car they dont do much.
People on here only get bashed when there opinion is different than the majority. I never told anyone not to buy the product, I never said anything bad about the product, I simply stated an opinion.
I never said they bought some other sway bar, I said it was the same design.
Ill take the advice of a 47 year old mechanic with 25 years of racing experience
I experienced a sway bar first hand for about 7 months, and experienced 0 (zero) difference in handling when I took it off.
Sway bars in general are not worthless, on this car they dont do much.
That is why GM, if you look at your rear trailing arm cross link, punched large 2" diameter holes, to offer some body roll, for the average user that never Auto X it maybe nice, but beaing it does move we are basically in concept adding another structural member to this, making it more ridgid so it cant flex as much. And that is the purpose of a SWAY BAR.
You do not need "bushings" to have a "sway bar" (do you need a "piston" for an engine? NO as some engines are "rotary" like mazdas, you need to think out side the box) the ones that have bushings use single bolt "endlinks" which can move. Where as this design has a "full face" welded plate to the bar, causing the center section (middle section of the bar) to be a torsional member.
Take a paper clip and fold it like a "U", have a friend place their thumb on the bottom or "middle" part, then on one side of the "U" put your thumb on it, and on ther other side use your finger nail and pick up the "leg" of it, you will see the other side wants to come up. Our design functions, as we have flat welded plates on each side with 2 bolts holding them on.
Other designs that use "bushings" must use "endlinks" as it needs a "pivot point" there, at the end of the link.
Best of all in post #4 thekingsSS claimed he had our TTR sway bars, which we just started shipping yesterday. Which meant he doesnt even have one, and he DOESN't even know what products are on his car, so how can he know what a product does.... WOW?!?!
We are done explaining how this works, if you still dont get it, google it. Moving back on topic.
Last edited by TurboTechRacing; Apr 23, 2008 at 08:10 PM.
He doesnt know anything about chasis, yes the cobalt has a semi independent rear suspension, but being it has a rear axle beam, and trailing arms welded together, there is still a lot of flex in it.
That is why GM, if you look at your rear trailing arm cross link, punched large 2" diameter holes, to offer some body roll, for the average user that never Auto X it maybe nice, but beaing it does move we are basically in concept adding another structural member to this, making it more ridgid so it cant flex as much. And that is the purpose of a SWAY BAR.
You do not need "bushings" to have a "sway bar" (do you need a "piston" for an engine? NO as some engines are "rotary" like mazdas, you need to think out side the box) the ones that have bushings use single bolt "endlinks" which can move. Where as this design has a "full face" welded plate to the bar, causing the center section (middle section of the bar) to be a torsional member.
Take a paper clip and fold it like a "U", have a friend place their thumb on the bottom or "middle" part, then on one side of the "U" put your thumb on it, and on ther other side use your finger nail and pick up the "leg" of it, you will see the other side wants to come up. Our design functions, as we have flat welded plates on each side with 2 bolts holding them on.
Other designs that use "bushings" must use "endlinks" as it needs a "pivot point" there, at the end of the link.
Best of all in post #4 thekingsSS claimed he had our TTR sway bars, which we just started shipping yesterday. Which meant he doesnt even have one, and he DOESN't even know what products are on his car, so how can he know what a product does.... WOW?!?!
We are done explaining how this works, if you still dont get it, google it. Moving back on topic.
That is why GM, if you look at your rear trailing arm cross link, punched large 2" diameter holes, to offer some body roll, for the average user that never Auto X it maybe nice, but beaing it does move we are basically in concept adding another structural member to this, making it more ridgid so it cant flex as much. And that is the purpose of a SWAY BAR.
You do not need "bushings" to have a "sway bar" (do you need a "piston" for an engine? NO as some engines are "rotary" like mazdas, you need to think out side the box) the ones that have bushings use single bolt "endlinks" which can move. Where as this design has a "full face" welded plate to the bar, causing the center section (middle section of the bar) to be a torsional member.
Take a paper clip and fold it like a "U", have a friend place their thumb on the bottom or "middle" part, then on one side of the "U" put your thumb on it, and on ther other side use your finger nail and pick up the "leg" of it, you will see the other side wants to come up. Our design functions, as we have flat welded plates on each side with 2 bolts holding them on.
Other designs that use "bushings" must use "endlinks" as it needs a "pivot point" there, at the end of the link.
Best of all in post #4 thekingsSS claimed he had our TTR sway bars, which we just started shipping yesterday. Which meant he doesnt even have one, and he DOESN't even know what products are on his car, so how can he know what a product does.... WOW?!?!
We are done explaining how this works, if you still dont get it, google it. Moving back on topic.
So TTR just moved MY post back on topic.... LOL....im buzzed right now.
I love you at ttr. Friday I will have the ching for the sway bar. Ill post and tell everyone if I notice a difference.
Is the bar under any tension at all? I dont want to disassemble it and have it take my head off.
I love you at ttr. Friday I will have the ching for the sway bar. Ill post and tell everyone if I notice a difference.
Is the bar under any tension at all? I dont want to disassemble it and have it take my head off.
Ive ordered the part In Blue Metallic as of 11:46 PM 04-23-2008. I used discount code which is available on one of TTR's posts for $30 off. SWEET. its like free shipping. Just hope to god I can install.
Yea don't worry about installs, a buddy of mine has a saturn, and we changed his sway bar out in minutes



