I did them all at once (springs, struts, TCABS). Just take off the control arms and bring them into NAPA. They charged me 40 bucks to replace the TCABS. I wasn't gonna mess with them myself for that money. Dealership wanted at least 60 and knowing them they would probably have bent the arms lol

 

So what is the difference between v1, 2, or 3 of these Springs?

 

version 2 is slightly lower than v1. v3 has a slightly smaller pigtail at the bottom end but is otherwise the same. some of the last v3s got a v4 lazer etched on them by mistake.

 

WS you HAVE to buy V.1 for the HHR you need the rate and installed height your vehicle is 300 lbs heavier at the rear than a Cobalt. Email me I have new v.1 for you 360 shipped.

 

Sorry for been kind repetitive, but What is the smaller pigtail for? What is the purpose?
I read something about it but probably read it wrong, that ppl still find easier to install the v2 than the v3?

 

There were a few people that complained thinking the spring would move around, it's just makes it easier to slide over the bump stops. This is only the rear springs and front should be identical. It's just the part of the spring that surrounds the rear bump stops.

 

through out the whole process of aftermarket springs, especially with pedders, it was horrible to get the isolators into the spring pig tail ( the curled end) on the rear. they didnt fit.
heat, grinding hammering etc.
when I set about to do a new rising rate spring, i specified a pigtail size based on the OEM spring ( snug fit.)
the v.1 used the correct dimension for the pig tail but as the wire was larger in diameter it was tight. not as stupid as pedders but not great. I wanted great.
v.2 were too loose. isolators slid in no problem, but then people complained that the spring would rattle because the isolator was loose in the pigtail. Fact is, it would not due to the isolator but meh.
v.3 we fixed it. perfect just like i wanted.
then v.3 got laser etched v.4 ( operator error) more confusion.

so it goes.

 

I was thinking. you dont see all the vendors who flogged pedders on here helping folks out with information.
warranty. or even spring rate. Pedders refused to give me their rates. So I rated EVERY aftermarket spring i could get my hands on. even Teins. what junk they are.
all are softer than stock LNF springs.

stuff like that
vendors of:
CM, H&R or any of the eibachs ( oops they break)
so.
just saying.

 

Thank you!
Last question, is this would be a recommended replacement or better than using the fe3?
Im thinking this, FE5 shocks and struts to replace my current FE3. And YYZ V3.

 

I have been looking for a good time a set to lower the car but not too much. More like to improve the handling. I'm really concern on lowering because here in SFL specially Miami , when it rains it floods, and I don't want my car to float away...

 

thats the most popular least expensive set up, and CED sells them already assembled. Bonus.

 

This is the height of the YYZ springs these are specifically V.3
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/tii4on1cnlq637p/_Zo9-W3CRp
If you're replacing shocks/struts the FE5 ones are good but the best are the Koni's although about double the price.

 

Too expensive, amazon has the struts and shocks much cheaper, with free 2 day shipping.... Shhhh don't tell them

 

okay i beleive that, now buy isolators, mounts, and assemble.
is it still cheaper than 872 assembled plug and play? dont forget the springs will have to be shipped. so will amazon s stuff but you may get free shipping at amazon.

thought starters... ps some of the aftermarket stuff is not right

 

good point lol.

They are OEM parts.

 

yyz/koni yellows..50%stiff front/rear for street...75% stiff front 50% rear for track...done. Best money I've spent on suspension.

 

Took the car out for a spin, its fantastic. Car is getting an alignment right now. will post pics within a few hours. Great product!

 

Before.

After.

Make sure to get an alignment!

 

pretty decent. Looks good.Andrecarr1993 came up from NY an visited, what a nice guy! Car is on YYZ and TC wheels with Conti DWS ( I run those for winters on the wntrbtr2) and looks very good. After installing cabs I reset the alignment a shade over 30 mins total toe in. Thats close to factory specs, I prefer zero but it was a long afternoon and it was time to go. Poor Andrew has a loooooong drive home..... ThxGov, your toe in is close to zero if its a tenth of a degree and I would prefer that for the summer. (did i read that right in your post? )

I cant see if the car is square or not, as the bottom of the read out is not visible;it shows negative toe left front wheel and positive toe right on the front, and thatss all confusing to me. Strings are easier...

 

That was the before alignment before it was corrected for the springs its all in the green now. I'll look at actual numbers tomorrow and let you know. The car feels great handles like a go kart again. eeded the new struts and springs.

 

Doing the mods properly, handling/drive train first before I add any power

Got some ideas about rear disk brakes thanks to Powell.

 

Hi to all, and first off let me say wow on this site. I am probably older than most on here but have always liked to modify older cars. Well now my son is 15 almost 16 and I have him a 2008 Cobalt LT. We are going to do some customizing as what 16 year old wants a stock car... Nothing to radical but I of course want it safe. Reading on here sure points me to the YYZ springs. We want to lower it some but he still needs to daily drive it. These may be a bit higher but it appears the quality is above all.
That said can we get away with using his 90,000 mile FE1 suspension or will that just cause us more problems in the long run. We don't have a lot to spend but I am thinking Christmas (plus birthday plus...) we will be working on this together and have the necessary tools and he will learn as we go.
These springs seem to be where we want to go.
Again thanks for the informative site and yes I will need to continue to search thru all this great info.
Dave

 

I'd say go with the kit CED sells that's already assembled. That'll make life much easier and you will have new FE5 shocks & struts. I wouldn't chance running FE1 with that many miles when they might already be shot or will be soon. The only thing other than the kit you should get are Moog endlinks, you'll more likely than not have to destroy your stock endlinks getting them off.

 

If you're going to do the springs and the stock FE1 setup has 90k on it, maybe look into grabbing a new set of FE5 struts, moog endlinks, and new strut mounts while you're at it. Huge improvment over FE1 and all those parts can be had for $250-300.

Edit: Ninja'd by Andrew

 

Be sure to check out your lower control arm bushings (CAB's)
if the car has that many miles on it and they are the originals they will be shot as well.
Powell has some great bushings or we can sell you OEM arms or FE5 arms as well.
Here is a link for our suspension parts