MAF tuning
Yea, I tune with DFCO disabled so that I can tune decel to 14.7. Then I re enable dfco for driving. The reason I tune these is because it keeps the short trims from bouncing around between the time you take your foot off the peddle and dfco kicks in. If you are bouncing rich/lean, etc. in decel, it's your short PWs. Tweek the adders.
DFCO has been a common feature on vehicles for decades.
On decel, if all the requirements are met, your AFR should peg your gauge and go completely lean.
as there is no longer fuel being ignited in the cylinders.
if its not doing that, you have somehow disabled your DFCO and forgotten to enable it.
which is quite likely, as many people turn it off during tuning
On decel, if all the requirements are met, your AFR should peg your gauge and go completely lean.
as there is no longer fuel being ignited in the cylinders.
if its not doing that, you have somehow disabled your DFCO and forgotten to enable it.
which is quite likely, as many people turn it off during tuning
Perfect my friends, I had DFCO disabled when I was tuning both MAF and VE. Once done MAF I copied that to the VE then tuned VE. Once I was done VE I copied the MAF and the VE tables to my driving tune and when on decell it will sweep to 16.0 or my guage limit. So from what you are saying then is that it is OK to sweep to 16.0 on decell on my driving tune because there is no fuel being ignited at that time and when I am driving in my driving tune the guage sweeping from 14.5 to 15.0 AFR is OK. I know we can never get it exact due to changing conditions.
If this is the case how much do I adjust the short PW adders?
thanks
Yea, I tune with DFCO disabled so that I can tune decel to 14.7. Then I re enable dfco for driving. The reason I tune these is because it keeps the short trims from bouncing around between the time you take your foot off the peddle and dfco kicks in. If you are bouncing rich/lean, etc. in decel, it's your short PWs. Tweek the adders.
thanks
Last edited by Kaisoboy; Mar 24, 2008 at 12:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Yea, you will always see a bit rich while the car warms up. With DFCO on, your WB should peg lean during decel. With DFCO disabled, you should get 14.7 (or there 'bouts) during decel as well. If you are idling smooth and your transition to DFCO is good, leave the adders alone. If you are bouncing or having misfires at idle, or if you go rich before DFCO kicks in, turn off DFCO and work on your adders some more.
Check your PE Enable TPS, your delay rpm and map. When these conditions are met, your car will command richer fuel mixtures as dictated per your PE EQ table.
MAP - 55 kpa
MAP Hyst - 5 kpa
delay rpm - 1900
Enrichment rate is set to 1, and when I set the EQ ratio to command 11.4 across the board, she'll hit maybe a 12.2 or 12.8 at wot.
Does piston protection play a big part? i've got it set at 8000.
true, however i had previously answered that question, thus i gave you a word of advice.
one would figure that if you knew that you needed to flat line PE and disable defco you would know the "how to" and reason behind tuning a maf, but thats apparently not true.
one would figure that if you knew that you needed to flat line PE and disable defco you would know the "how to" and reason behind tuning a maf, but thats apparently not true.
I usually put in a filter for WOT only, say above 95% ETC. Set the PE table to what you wanna run. So if you want to run 11.8 then flat line the PE table with 1.25. Then you log and adjust the maf until you get it dead on.
To answer your question - when you are tuning MAF - drive smoothly and try to not get into boost/PE. You have to try and hit as many of the cells as you can. make smooth throttle transitions when you are coming on the throttle and off the throttle. Get points of low load and low engine speed and points of low load and high engine speed while still trying to keep out of boost/PE if you can. You can try points of higher load while still staying out of boost/PE.
hope that helps.

EDIT - your way ahead of the steps I am outlining - sorry. But my first statement still stands
Last edited by Pully Police; Mar 25, 2008 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Misread :)
the "driving procedure" is simple.
for best results you want to set up a scanner config just for maf tuning. turn every other logged parameter off, and log nothing more then whats needed. that way your uper rev resolution will be decent and help speed this process.
i start my log's once the car is moving, that way your low freq MAF tables dont get mixed with your maf idle settings.
once your logging and moving slowly in first, pull out onto a highway or back road and give her all shes got. i do 2nd and 3rd gear pulls.
i'll do one or two "rolling" into the throttle and last 1 or 2 i'll just kill it...part self satisfaction, part load increase.
do you know the copy and paste steps from there?
after a few goes like this (2-3) i'm usually quite dead on. tweak from there.
Thanks dude. So what you are saying is put a filter so that my histo will only log when it is in pe, so I don't have to worry about falling out of boost? Also, shall I run the car in boost, running everywhere between 3 psi or so and up to max, varying the map as little as possible? Thanks.
Thanks dude. So what you are saying is put a filter so that my histo will only log when it is in pe, so I don't have to worry about falling out of boost? Also, shall I run the car in boost, running everywhere between 3 psi or so and up to max, varying the map as little as possible? Thanks.
run the car over thru the revs in as many spots as possible, the histo will pull the average of it all so the more counts you get in there, the better.
you gave me the smart ass answer first, i was just helping you out.
the "driving procedure" is simple.
for best results you want to set up a scanner config just for maf tuning. turn every other logged parameter off, and log nothing more then whats needed. that way your uper rev resolution will be decent and help speed this process.
i start my log's once the car is moving, that way your low freq MAF tables dont get mixed with your maf idle settings.
once your logging and moving slowly in first, pull out onto a highway or back road and give her all shes got. i do 2nd and 3rd gear pulls.
i'll do one or two "rolling" into the throttle and last 1 or 2 i'll just kill it...part self satisfaction, part load increase.
do you know the copy and paste steps from there?
after a few goes like this (2-3) i'm usually quite dead on. tweak from there.
the "driving procedure" is simple.
for best results you want to set up a scanner config just for maf tuning. turn every other logged parameter off, and log nothing more then whats needed. that way your uper rev resolution will be decent and help speed this process.
i start my log's once the car is moving, that way your low freq MAF tables dont get mixed with your maf idle settings.
once your logging and moving slowly in first, pull out onto a highway or back road and give her all shes got. i do 2nd and 3rd gear pulls.
i'll do one or two "rolling" into the throttle and last 1 or 2 i'll just kill it...part self satisfaction, part load increase.
do you know the copy and paste steps from there?
after a few goes like this (2-3) i'm usually quite dead on. tweak from there.
Apologies. I was not trying to **** down anyones throat, just trying to keep things from going off track. I was not trying to sound rude, but that is the bane of a text based forum... I hate having to put a smiley after every line so people don't take something the wrong way.
no worries here tho.


