2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Head removal

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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 08:34 PM
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ChainLink's Avatar
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Head removal

Quick question,
I'm about to go remove the head on my friend's '05 SS, and I was wondering how easy it is to remove. Is it accessible without removing the rad? Can I get away with just draining the engine oil and coolant? Do I need to drain the intercooler aswell? Any help would be appreciated.. Thanks!
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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any particular reason you decided to remove the head?
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:41 PM
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I would recommend draining oil and engine coolant. Aftercooler system can stay. You don't really need to pull out exhaust or intake manifolds. Just remove nuts/studs and they can sit in the engine bay. The head is very easy to remove on these. Nothing really needs to come out of engine bay.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:43 PM
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Is it easy enough to pull the head with the exh mani still attached? I'm doing a header at the same time, id rather unbolt it out of the car if I can. I'm not sure about re-installing it with the header attached, I would like to, but its a big ass header.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
Is it easy enough to pull the head with the exh mani still attached? I'm doing a header at the same time, id rather unbolt it out of the car if I can. I'm not sure about re-installing it with the header attached, I would like to, but its a big ass header.
Yea, I have done it that way too. It will just obviously make the head more heavy and ackward, but easily doable.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
Is it easy enough to pull the head with the exh mani still attached? I'm doing a header at the same time, id rather unbolt it out of the car if I can. I'm not sure about re-installing it with the header attached, I would like to, but its a big ass header.
I put my pacesetter down through the top, so i dont see why that wouldnt work.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:46 PM
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Timing chain is going to be a lot of fun....get a book/service manual! Chiltons, Haynes, or factory service manual.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Red07SSNA
Timing chain is going to be a lot of fun....get a book/service manual! Chiltons, Haynes, or factory service manual.
For the head removal, the chain isn't a huge deal.

Just put something in the spark plug holes and make all 4 pistons flat across. You can just un-do the chain around the cam gears and don't need to worry about the cams spinning and valve/piston contact. The valve's won't reach that far down with all 4 pistons flat.

For head re-install, the front cover will obviously need to be removed for re-timing, but that is very easy as well.

Just get the GM 300HP build book, does a lot better than service manuals.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 11:03 PM
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Well, I got as far as draining the coolant and oil, and removing the valve cover before I decided it was time for dinner. Will I need to get an inverse torx socket set for this?

The reason I'm taking off the head is from my overheating/compression thread. I'm just trying to determine if the headgasket is blown (99% sure it is), and check to make sure the head isn't cracked.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ChainLink
Well, I got as far as draining the coolant and oil, and removing the valve cover before I decided it was time for dinner. Will I need to get an inverse torx socket set for this?

The reason I'm taking off the head is from my overheating/compression thread. I'm just trying to determine if the headgasket is blown (99% sure it is), and check to make sure the head isn't cracked.
4 of the headbolts near the front of the motor are E-Sockets. 2 inside the head, and 2 outside. Intake and exhaust manifold also use inverse torx on the studs.

Make sure to have the head checked by a machine shop. Blown headgasket = warped head. Probably needs decked. Stock headbolts are stretch as well and will need replaced, recommend ARP or Golden Eagle stud kits.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 11:30 PM
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Awsome. You guys have been a great help.
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