I replaced my engine with an LHU and did the whole subframe drop etc. I have been dealing with false knock retard since the swap and have done just about everything I can to make sure the manifold (that sits 1" higher) doesn't hit anything (firewall or AC line). I swapped my summer set of wheels on and got aligned, and the car pulls left under any throttle, but straightens out on decel/coasting. I'm thinking some of my false knock could be from the axle on the drivers side binding a little, but I don't hear any noises.
The point of this post is to ask, how do you align the engine with the mounts? I just threw the bolts in and tightened them, to spec, but I'm thinking the motor mount (passenger side) might be off as I've had the other 3 off and retorqued them a couple times now. There's plenty of slop in the mount to be able to move the motor around, but how do I know it's centered?
thanks!

 

Not sure that this will help but you could loosen the engine mount bolts and trans mount bolts and roll the car back forth a few times with it in gear and then re install them. If that does not work than I would look into the front and rear torque mounts, mine weren't bad but everytime I got on and off the throttle hard I could feel the engine moving back and forth due to the weak factory mounts, zzp sells solid rubber ones so they vibrate the teeth out of your head but will keep everything solid

 

There is an hptuners thread about this. Something to do with how the knock sensors are clocked. Id google that and see if they are correct.

 

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...-to-cure/page3

 

I have OTTP solid rotated mounts, which can cause some but nothing to this degree, my tuner thinks it's deeper.

tuner is advising against it but it's an option. could just try loosening and retorquing but I don't have a 3/8" torque wrench.

 

If you have a 1/2" torque wrench you could just use a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter which would be relatively cheap

 

that's not the problem, the problem is that the 1/2" torque wrench only goes down to 20 ft-lbs and when dealing with something as finicky as the knock sensors I'd prefer to get the calibrated tool. but like I said, playing with knock sensors is one of my last resort options. don't know why they would put them in incorrectly from the factory.

 

What is the torque spec for the knock sensor?

 

18 ft lbs iirc