With real tires low to mid 11's should be easily attainable... hell I already have the speed for 11's just no traction from my street tires.

 

depends on your suspension.

 

11s in a FWD. That **** is ridiculous.

 

The car blew up, it's already apart. The clutch was done about 3 weeks before that happened.

It's not an issue of just money, but a matter of throwing money away to change things that were just done, and more downtime that he's already gonna have.

 

so the valve train was just done? woh didnt know that.. thx bai

exactly car is already apart.. sorry but it's silly to upgrade 95% of **** and leave a few things.. a few things that with extra pressure can really bite you in the ass

i bolded

"You don't want to be kicking yourself in the ass later." because that what i was responding do ... common forum practice

 

i honestly still think you need to get the k1 rods....enough said....ottp stage 2 mounts over the ttr....theres a thread on this ill find or you and the ttr ones broke before the ottp ones....im not saying ttr ones are bad but the ottp mounts are better and lighter) also get the mounts in before your downpipe is made, contact dss and get axles for your hp/tq levels, SPEC STAGE 3+ or stage 5(spec stage 3+ has a higher tq rating the the stage 4 and they dont make a stage 4+ yet for our cars), oil pressure gauge and a reliable boost gauge,


heres the thread for the mounts cardelino. you know i wouldnt wrong you.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ttp+ttr+mounts

 

DSS already has axles i think.. but i'm not sure ..

 

Lose the attitude.

I'm just saying in general to anyone in this thread. Yeah, it's nice to sit and look at it on paper. When you pull a car apart and find more damage than you thought, need $3000 more work than you planned, and a couple weeks more without a car than you thought, it doesn't always work as ideal as people on the internet like to think.

I want the car done safely and strongly, and I also want the drivetrain back in the car and the car out of my driveway. End result comes down to what the owner wants to do and what he can afford realistically.

Valvesprings aren't really necessary without a raised rev limit. Like 7000+. Many people ran 7200-7400 on stock LSJ springs, I doubt they made the springs WEAKER in the LNF. Would I like to see a fully done head on the car? Sure. But i'm not paying for it, so I will put the stock stuff back on until told otherwise.

Rods MAY not be happy above 500whp. Cryo treating stock rods is a lot cheaper than replacing them, and will make them stronger. Also, without fuel, you aren't getting past 500whp anyway.

 

wouldn't he be safe running 30 psi on weisco pistons?

 

30psi is too much for the stock turbo, it's just not efficent at that airflow level. It's not a problem because the pistons are weak, it's a problem of pushing a tiny turbo too far.

 

I understand the clutch was done after he mentioned after I posted. Regardless he spec'd that clutch prior to all this it is rated for what 495 , he is thinking around 485 which is very close so I made a point. I'm not bashing the kid.

 

I would probly hate life trying to drive a high 400whp fwd car on the streets. My goal for my car is around 380-410whp and carrying the power all the way to redline not dying off at 5k.

 

why would it die at 5krpm?

 

Seems like it would start really coming to life at 5K RPM. Don't listen to him.

Oh, and it "die," not "dye," cardelino.

 

He is talking about stock turbo

 

Ah, I see.

 

Ya I was referring to the stock piece. a S252et at like ~21psi seems to be my flavor. Now to acquire currency.

Fabian when you are all up and running you will have to take another crack at that Lambo. I could be chase car

 

lol i will

 

Bench track racing. :P