Possible tune
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From: Cali
Possible tune
Since I'm not commuting 120 miles a day 5 days a week anymore . I was thinking about getting a tune . I have GM1,K&N CAI and SPEC2+. if it can be helped I do not want to do any more upgrades or if needed possibly minor , what would be a good reliable PSI to go with and without any other or minor upgrades would it really be noticeable?
Last edited by chevy350; Sep 20, 2016 at 02:43 AM.
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It is definitely noticeable. I was GM1 with just a drop in K&N only. I then bought HPtuners and after a lot of research self tuned my car. Huge difference. Several areas were much better.
I thought the mid range (3K-5K rpm) difference was HUGE. I saw that the GM tune was "soft" in that area (kept boost down and timing very conservative). There were still solid gains from 5-6K rpm (where peak HP normally is found around 5.5K-6K). I think many pick up 20-25whp gains at peak HP from GM1 to custom HP tune, and from my experience on a dyno many times with other cars, I can believe I picked up that much.
And GM1 (or factory stock tune) die because they are artificially killed above 6K rpm (tune drops boost substantially after 6K rpm), but with a custom tune power will still taper off, but more slowly and naturally, so you can still make use of 6000-6500 rpm, especially in 1st and 2nd gear where they go by so quickly it is help to still use that range.
As for boost, I run 23-24 psi (which tapers to around 20.5-21 psi at 6300 rpm). I am not sure I would use that boost for a race event with hot lapping where it was pushed hard for 25 minutes at a time, but I run it on the street for fun and would at the drag strip. For a road course car I might run a little lower boost like 21 psi to help the turbo live a longer life (but I have heard of others running 24-25psi on road courses on the stock turbo). I did have the end tank of the IC blow completely open at the 23-24 psi that I run after only 5-6 weeks after upping the boost. Others do not have that happen. The previous owner of my car did bottom out (I could see the scrape marks) on what turned out to be the same side of the car as the end tank that let go, so that might have compromised it. I now run a ZZP IC just because I had to replace it and it certainly won't fail like that again. You might want to think about upgrading the IC before getting stuck with a towing bill like I did (30 miles from my house, so a few bucks for sure), if you up the boost over GM1 (my GM1 tune ran about 19.5-20.5 psi depending on weather/temps).
I thought the mid range (3K-5K rpm) difference was HUGE. I saw that the GM tune was "soft" in that area (kept boost down and timing very conservative). There were still solid gains from 5-6K rpm (where peak HP normally is found around 5.5K-6K). I think many pick up 20-25whp gains at peak HP from GM1 to custom HP tune, and from my experience on a dyno many times with other cars, I can believe I picked up that much.
And GM1 (or factory stock tune) die because they are artificially killed above 6K rpm (tune drops boost substantially after 6K rpm), but with a custom tune power will still taper off, but more slowly and naturally, so you can still make use of 6000-6500 rpm, especially in 1st and 2nd gear where they go by so quickly it is help to still use that range.
As for boost, I run 23-24 psi (which tapers to around 20.5-21 psi at 6300 rpm). I am not sure I would use that boost for a race event with hot lapping where it was pushed hard for 25 minutes at a time, but I run it on the street for fun and would at the drag strip. For a road course car I might run a little lower boost like 21 psi to help the turbo live a longer life (but I have heard of others running 24-25psi on road courses on the stock turbo). I did have the end tank of the IC blow completely open at the 23-24 psi that I run after only 5-6 weeks after upping the boost. Others do not have that happen. The previous owner of my car did bottom out (I could see the scrape marks) on what turned out to be the same side of the car as the end tank that let go, so that might have compromised it. I now run a ZZP IC just because I had to replace it and it certainly won't fail like that again. You might want to think about upgrading the IC before getting stuck with a towing bill like I did (30 miles from my house, so a few bucks for sure), if you up the boost over GM1 (my GM1 tune ran about 19.5-20.5 psi depending on weather/temps).
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Get a down pipe, catless of hi flow catted, and a 24psi tune. I went from 285whp on GMS1 to 359whp on a 24 psi tune and E85. Most will see ~330 ish on pump gas.
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From: Cali
It is definitely noticeable. I was GM1 with just a drop in K&N only. I then bought HPtuners and after a lot of research self tuned my car. Huge difference. Several areas were much better.
I thought the mid range (3K-5K rpm) difference was HUGE. I saw that the GM tune was "soft" in that area (kept boost down and timing very conservative). There were still solid gains from 5-6K rpm (where peak HP normally is found around 5.5K-6K). I think many pick up 20-25whp gains at peak HP from GM1 to custom HP tune, and from my experience on a dyno many times with other cars, I can believe I picked up that much.
And GM1 (or factory stock tune) die because they are artificially killed above 6K rpm (tune drops boost substantially after 6K rpm), but with a custom tune power will still taper off, but more slowly and naturally, so you can still make use of 6000-6500 rpm, especially in 1st and 2nd gear where they go by so quickly it is help to still use that range.
As for boost, I run 23-24 psi (which tapers to around 20.5-21 psi at 6300 rpm). I am not sure I would use that boost for a race event with hot lapping where it was pushed hard for 25 minutes at a time, but I run it on the street for fun and would at the drag strip. For a road course car I might run a little lower boost like 21 psi to help the turbo live a longer life (but I have heard of others running 24-25psi on road courses on the stock turbo). I did have the end tank of the IC blow completely open at the 23-24 psi that I run after only 5-6 weeks after upping the boost. Others do not have that happen. The previous owner of my car did bottom out (I could see the scrape marks) on what turned out to be the same side of the car as the end tank that let go, so that might have compromised it. I now run a ZZP IC just because I had to replace it and it certainly won't fail like that again. You might want to think about upgrading the IC before getting stuck with a towing bill like I did (30 miles from my house, so a few bucks for sure), if you up the boost over GM1 (my GM1 tune ran about 19.5-20.5 psi depending on weather/temps).
I thought the mid range (3K-5K rpm) difference was HUGE. I saw that the GM tune was "soft" in that area (kept boost down and timing very conservative). There were still solid gains from 5-6K rpm (where peak HP normally is found around 5.5K-6K). I think many pick up 20-25whp gains at peak HP from GM1 to custom HP tune, and from my experience on a dyno many times with other cars, I can believe I picked up that much.
And GM1 (or factory stock tune) die because they are artificially killed above 6K rpm (tune drops boost substantially after 6K rpm), but with a custom tune power will still taper off, but more slowly and naturally, so you can still make use of 6000-6500 rpm, especially in 1st and 2nd gear where they go by so quickly it is help to still use that range.
As for boost, I run 23-24 psi (which tapers to around 20.5-21 psi at 6300 rpm). I am not sure I would use that boost for a race event with hot lapping where it was pushed hard for 25 minutes at a time, but I run it on the street for fun and would at the drag strip. For a road course car I might run a little lower boost like 21 psi to help the turbo live a longer life (but I have heard of others running 24-25psi on road courses on the stock turbo). I did have the end tank of the IC blow completely open at the 23-24 psi that I run after only 5-6 weeks after upping the boost. Others do not have that happen. The previous owner of my car did bottom out (I could see the scrape marks) on what turned out to be the same side of the car as the end tank that let go, so that might have compromised it. I now run a ZZP IC just because I had to replace it and it certainly won't fail like that again. You might want to think about upgrading the IC before getting stuck with a towing bill like I did (30 miles from my house, so a few bucks for sure), if you up the boost over GM1 (my GM1 tune ran about 19.5-20.5 psi depending on weather/temps).
Last edited by chevy350; Sep 20, 2016 at 03:47 AM.
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From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
Thank you guys for your knowledge. I knew somebody would have some experience being these cars been out for little bit so people have had time to do trial and error. I would have to get a catted downpipe Cal. smog. From what I have read that wont help it pass so will save stock but do not like the sound of the catless... to loud or I'm too old ...lol.. My GM1 seems to be about what yours was. Has quite a bit of power now but a little bit more would be fun but want to maintain reliability.
When you see it and the stock dp with dual cats side by side, you can understand why lol
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[QUOTE=colodude18;7622941]Yes keep your stock down pipe. I run the Hahn hi-flow dp and it didn't pass emissions.
When you see it and the stock dp with dual cats side by side, you can understand why
Like I stated before I will probably get the high flow not catless. How loud is the high flow? Is one quieter than the other Hahn/ZZP? I hear some of these cars and they are way too loud for my taste. Goal is not to attract attention ..lol
When you see it and the stock dp with dual cats side by side, you can understand why
Like I stated before I will probably get the high flow not catless. How loud is the high flow? Is one quieter than the other Hahn/ZZP? I hear some of these cars and they are way too loud for my taste. Goal is not to attract attention ..lol
I had stock exhaust to start. Changed to catted high flow ZZP downpipe and full 3" mpx exhaust with muffler and resonator and it only made it slightly louder with a deeper tone. Over last winter I went with a catless ZZP downpipe and it only made it slightly louder, and I was pleasantly surprised. It is louder than stock at wot, but just driving around the mpx muffler keeps it really quiet. Only time I notice it being louder than the catted dp is decelerating but it's still not close to fart can loud. I'm with you- I don't want attn, and I want to be able to talk while driving and I can do both. The muffler makes all the difference, and even catless it doesn't make that droning tone inside the car going down the road. Wot it sounds really good, and we don't have emissions standards in Indiana.
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From: Cali
I had stock exhaust to start. Changed to catted high flow ZZP downpipe and full 3" mpx exhaust with muffler and resonator and it only made it slightly louder with a deeper tone. Over last winter I went with a catless ZZP downpipe and it only made it slightly louder, and I was pleasantly surprised. It is louder than stock at wot, but just driving around the mpx muffler keeps it really quiet. Only time I notice it being louder than the catted dp is decelerating but it's still not close to fart can loud. I'm with you- I don't want attn, and I want to be able to talk while driving and I can do both. The muffler makes all the difference, and even catless it doesn't make that droning tone inside the car going down the road. Wot it sounds really good, and we don't have emissions standards in Indiana.
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From: canada
Originally Posted by 63 Nova SS
I had stock exhaust to start. Changed to catted high flow ZZP downpipe and full 3" mpx exhaust with muffler and resonator and it only made it slightly louder with a deeper tone. Over last winter I went with a catless ZZP downpipe and it only made it slightly louder, and I was pleasantly surprised. It is louder than stock at wot, but just driving around the mpx muffler keeps it really quiet. Only time I notice it being louder than the catted dp is decelerating but it's still not close to fart can loud. I'm with you- I don't want attn, and I want to be able to talk while driving and I can do both. The muffler makes all the difference, and even catless it doesn't make that droning tone inside the car going down the road. Wot it sounds really good, and we don't have emissions standards in Indiana.
[QUOTE=chevy350;7623424]
I have the catted downpipe. Its alittle deeper than stock. You will notice a difference. Its not loud. Id call it "Sportier"
I just changed the exhaust to 3" and that made a bigger difference than the downpipe. I still have resonator and muffler but 3" piping does make it louder.
Yes keep your stock down pipe. I run the Hahn hi-flow dp and it didn't pass emissions.
When you see it and the stock dp with dual cats side by side, you can understand why
Like I stated before I will probably get the high flow not catless. How loud is the high flow? Is one quieter than the other Hahn/ZZP? I hear some of these cars and they are way too loud for my taste. Goal is not to attract attention ..lol
When you see it and the stock dp with dual cats side by side, you can understand why
Like I stated before I will probably get the high flow not catless. How loud is the high flow? Is one quieter than the other Hahn/ZZP? I hear some of these cars and they are way too loud for my taste. Goal is not to attract attention ..lol
I just changed the exhaust to 3" and that made a bigger difference than the downpipe. I still have resonator and muffler but 3" piping does make it louder.
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