08SSTCRD

On that note, you can also upgrade to Thermoquiet ceramics by specifiying part number QC1095A. The stock pads are organic apparently, which is why the Wagner pads are PD1095, which is an organic version. Ceramics tend to have much less dust and last longer as well.

ronn

iTrader: (3)

Funny..I did two searches on application. Rock Auto only shows SAAB for this pad.
Advanced Auto web site has my car listed and when that part is entered it shows that it won't fit the Cobalt. I saw a pic and they look similar as far as shape, but the backing on the pads looks different.

08SSTCRD

Yea the catalogs are incorrect, the people that make the listings are retarded and obviously don't understand that not every trim is the same within a car model.

For an '08 SS TC, Advance lists the pads as part number 1033 for the rear in every brand except for the Thermoquiets, which is completely wrong.

I have the QC1095A pads in the rear and they fit perfectly just like the OEM pads.

ronn

iTrader: (3)

Ok..thanks. Well, I have the PD1095 comming in anyway. I'm pretty sure they are semi metallic...maybe combo ceramic/semi metallic?
I also have Thermoquiet fronts MX1379 which I'll also put on.

BTW, how did those work out for you?

ronn

iTrader: (3)

Update..returned Organic for Ceramic. They are identical shapes, but ceramics have MOLDED INTERNAL SHIMS. Too bad web sites don't show ceramics for this application. In fact, the OEMS were prolly ceramic or semi metallic. You can also get these in Semi metallic, MX1095. These look identical to Organics with metal external shims. Too aggressive in my opinion.

PD1095 Organics


QC1095A ceramic..note integrated molded shims

Old Veteran Car Dude

Hey guys, I just bought a Victory Red Cobalt SS YESTERDAY. Do the 2010 models have the same problem with rear brakes, or did GM fix the issues for the 2010 model year?

Thanks.......

Billdayton

Chevrolet has not acknowledged the problem, as far as I know. It is my understanding that '10 Cobalts are effectively just a continuation of the '09 production until the Cruze was ready. However, they may have started to lube the slide pins, and if so, the problem is solved. I would suggest you make sure the slide pins are lubed!

Bill Dayton
09 Cobalt SS, Victory Red, G85, RPG (no sunroof)

08SSTCRD

The PD1095 pads are "Non-Asbestos Organic" (NAO), which is basically the pad that replaced the old asbestos pads back in the 70's. They are made up of different types of "organic" fibers and fillers.

Organics tend to be quiet and are original equipment on many Asian cars. They are one of the cheapest pads on the market as far as cost. The downsides are that they have poor heat transfer which can induce fade, and they still make a quite a lot of brake dust.

Ceramics are essentinally organic-based pads with ceramic compounds. High quality ceramic pads, such as Wagners, often contain copper fibers as well. They are more durable than organic pads, have better heat transfer, and are the lowest dusting pad you can buy. They are original equipment on almost every car on the market today with the exception of heavy duty trucks and high performance cars.

Semi-metallic brake pads offer the best performance out of all the pads. They have the best heat transfer and are very durable during performance driving or heavy duty use. They produce the most brake dust, and semi-metallic dust is the worst because the electrostatically charged metal particles eat into the wheel finish over time. However, if you plan on using the car at the track, semi-metallic pads will give you the best performance. This is why they come stock on the front of the SS T/C and other high performance cars like Corvettes, Camaros, CTS-V, SRT-8, Mustang GT, Viper, ect.

My reccommendation would be to run semi-metallic (stock) pads in the front and ceramics or organics in the rear. You could also run ceramics in the front to reduce brake dust, but only if you do not plan on doing any track driving.

I run the stock Ferodo semi-metallics in the front (came with the car) and Wagner QC1095A's in the rear. The brake dust from the front pads sucks, but its a trade off for performance. I'd probably consider EBC or Hawk ceramics for the front next time around since my car doesn't see track useage. The rear Wagner ceramics have been good, they stop well, create very little dust, and have been very nice to the rotors. They do make noise sometimes however, which I believe is due to the rotors being slightly glazed over from use with the previous set of OEM pads. The original pads were still good (75%), but they were really chewing up the rotors so I swapped them out for the Wagners which have been much better.

ronn

iTrader: (3)

That's why I'm getting new rotors... Plain Centric, which C1 Concepts uses for slotting.

madlion

just had to change out my rear brakes at 26k. i bought hawk hps and r1 rotors slotted and vented but not cross drilled. this combo cost me like 270ish and then the install was like 130ish. i bet they last longer then 26k.

ronn

iTrader: (3)

Rotors (Same as C1s but plain) cost me $111 SHIPPED. Pads..Wagner thermoquiet Caramics...$46. Install is really simple..but I may have a guy do it, since I don't have a lift and I don't know if I wanna bother with using the jack. $75 quoted if I go that route.

ronn

iTrader: (3)

Well, I installed the QC1095A pads. Fit is fine, but they don't reach in all the way to the inner edge of the rotor. They're about 3mm short. No big deal. I assume the other organic pads I got (PD1095) would have fit the same the same...didn't keep them to compare.

08SSTCRD

Just replied to your PM.

This is interesting because the pad number 1095 designates the pad size, shape, and thickness, and both share the same number. The "A" at the end of the QC1095A's designates a difference in backing plate design, shims, chamfers, slots, ect.

ronn

iTrader: (3)

Either my replacement rotor is a tad larger than stock, or the pads are a bit smaller to accomodate the other applications with slightly smaller rotors..say 11" +/-. I'm pretty sure mine is to spec though. Check to see if you have a small inner ring of unswept area.

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

When I replaced my rear brake pads and rotors I went with EBC Premium blanks and HPS pads, not a single complaint from me with that combo.

ronn

iTrader: (3)

That's a good combo too. I went with CERAMICS in the rear to reduce DUST. The HPS is a semi metalic..great pad but dusts more.

Old Veteran Car Dude

I just bought a brand new 2010 Victory Red SS last week. I pulled the rear calipers and the pins are dry as a bone.

I used GM silver "anti-seize" paste on the pins and the edges of the backing plates. The rear pads are really soft. I rubbed the outer pad on my concrete driveway, and it just crumbles. Wow....too freaking soft for me. I just ordered ceramics form Pep Boys.

Later, Old Veteran Car Dude

ronn

iTrader: (3)

Good move..pads are the real problem.

Billdayton

Stock pads are pretty aggressive, but I haven't had any problem with them, after the fix (new stock pads & rotors under warranty). They dust a bit, but not nearly as much as the fronts, naturally. I autocross 2-3 times a month for 9 months of the year, and my pads & rotors look great! However, pads are an individual preference thing.

Later!
Bill

ronn

iTrader: (3)

Unless they gave you a different type pad ( I hear they were using SAAB pads for a while), you will have a problem. I assume you had a problem in the first place and had em replaced? The original stock pads are TERRIBLE on the rotors and wear unevenly as well. Maybe GM fixed that issue using a different pad for replacement under warranty?
I just replaced mine myself (ceramic) along with premium rotors because I didn't want GM to go back to the same crap. Cost me only $150.

Billdayton

The replacement pads were a different GM part number, probably what the '10s got. The original issue was grooving of the rotors, because of the dry pins. First they turned the rotors, and the grooves came right back. Then they replaced pads & rotors (& greased the pins) under dealer warranty, and the issue is resolved.

bobbyhill31286

iTrader: (2)

^i donno if the 2010's have different pads or not but my rears are squealing their ass off. Car is a lil over a month old and I just hit 1,800 miles today and they have been making noise since it was a few days old with 400 miles

bobbyhill31286

iTrader: (2)

only makes the noise when gently applying the brakes...like in a parking lot. If i press firmly on the pedal its quiet

emiller

that is typical for higher performance brakes. when they get hot they wont squeal.

ronn

iTrader: (3)

So they're using different pads now? Great. As far as the *PINS* issue. Volvos and Mazda3s have the same identical (ATE) caliper we have WITH NO REPORTED PROBLEMS. In fact I saw a Volvo s40 today and can confirm the caliper is identical. OK..here's a pic from the Volvo forum which shows the PIN...same as ours. Note there's NO INNER protective boot (just like ours) AND THE PINS DON'T APPEAR TO BE LUBED EITHER!.





In fact, I lubed my pins around 5K miles ago when I wasn't having any problems..then BINGO...pads shot now! I really think this whole issue is a result of a pad that simply crumbles. The inner pads prolly wear faster not because of the pins, but because they (pads) are contaminated more being more exposed to the inside and this material attracts particles, being sticky as well.
Just my take