What you don't have on your logs is real EGT and turbo speed. You're overspinning the turbo to compensate for the boost leak.

There's no check valve where the condensation pipe is plumbed in. So if moisture can get into the condensation pipe from the intercooler, where do you think air is going?

 

^^^ Not to mention the unfiltered and unmetered air getting sucked in at light throttle/no boost.

 

This same thing happened to me today. I broke the little plastic piece holding it up on the right side of the condenser (looking at the car from the front).

I have a 2010 with boost gauge and it was still building pressure. does this mean I am OK, or could I still have issues? Can I just JB weld the condenser back to the IC?

What kind of damage could this do to the engine if it is not quickly repaired?

 

^^^ just unbolt the other side put some jb weld in the holes and leave the condenser off problem solved and it wont happen again

 

OK I will try that. I just wanted to make sure the IC is OK. Are there just 2 holes (one on each end?)

 

IF YOU HAVE intercooler piping too the bottom one could have came this connected from the intercooler happened to me once, had a major back fire and no boost, connected it back up and was on my merry way

 

Its just on one side and the other just hangs .

 

So everybody should remove their condensation pipe even if they haven't broken it yet?

 

It has been recommended, but I would just buy a metal IC (like I did) and get it over with.

 

Probably doesn't fit in my budget till next year. So if I'm gonna roll on the stock IC I should take it off then?

 

On my way home I got a check engine light and car was running sluggish.

I unscrewed the other side and jb welded the holes, but still have check engine light and no boost. What else could have happened when I hit the pot hole? I think something else is cracked

 

Go to a parts store and have them run the codes and clear it. Or try to disconnect the battery for 15min but i would check the codes. If it still feels not right i would do a boost leak test.

Also check both plastic ends of the IC to make sure you have no cracks.

 

Boost leak test how-to in my sig.

 

Wow...wish I had known about these plastic IC ends before hand...Got a 3" crack on the side with the 2 holes (cold side I think).

Ordered a ZZP IC. Anyone know how quick these things ship? I don't want to drive a lot with this crack. Is this going to harm anything if I drive a week with no boost? Right now the only bad thing is its slow as sh*t, but I can deal with that.

GM should've made it a recall and removed all the condenser tanks...Oh well, I've only read good things on zzp and was planning on upgrading to that eventually anyways.

 

JB quick weld the crack till you get the IC.

 

Just did. Hopefully it dries/seals. Thanks for the help!

 

Any downside to taking the endtanks off your stock IC to prevent this? Or is it just there to hold pointless liquid?

 

No problem

You don't take the end tanks off lol.. The thin piece that runs below the IC can be removed so it doesn't get hit and possibly crack your end tanks.

 

Gotcha thanks.