2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

Details of your tuned LNF

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Old 05-10-2012, 12:51 AM
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i have an LNF, and it goes fast
Old 05-10-2012, 12:52 AM
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lol...
Old 05-10-2012, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by matt638
i have an LNF, and it goes fast
Well, now aren't we special!!!

Haha!!
Old 05-10-2012, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by AARON-SS-TC
thank for all of your help/input man...i figured timing probably did vary because i have heard of people getting 17* on 93 safely as well, so we will see what happens..
i guess i just wanna get an idea of what my car is fully capable of safely, and i wanna reach it.
What i dont get is if we have say 400wtq, and race a 350z or a mustang or even a honda accord that is heavier and way less torque, but yet pulls bad until our cars get up to speed..makes no sense, but i wanna feel every bit of power my car is putting down, and when my car was first tuned, it still didnt feel like a real powerful car till 4th gear then it seemed to come alive...maybe too much torque management?
what gear are you in when going up against the cars mentioned??? even with NO TUNE a honda accord will not pull on a cobalt ss. now the 350 can put down some torque plus rwd,so i expect it to be right on the side at first. mustang depends on model and gearing they have. call me crazy,but imo it's all in the clutch. if the clutch can hold the power you are putting out then there you go. i learned this when i had my hhr ss(on accident lol).when i had the stock clutch on a bsr tune(lol),yes it felt faster and was faster. then i upgraded to spec stage 3 and then i felt my car pull harder. then i went with trifecta and was boosting 25psi and it held all of it. car pulled very strong. whoever ends up with that car will have fun.
Old 05-10-2012, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mightymouse1975
what gear are you in when going up against the cars mentioned??? even with NO TUNE a honda accord will not pull on a cobalt ss. now the 350 can put down some torque plus rwd,so i expect it to be right on the side at first. mustang depends on model and gearing they have. call me crazy,but imo it's all in the clutch. if the clutch can hold the power you are putting out then there you go. i learned this when i had my hhr ss(on accident lol).when i had the stock clutch on a bsr tune(lol),yes it felt faster and was faster. then i upgraded to spec stage 3 and then i felt my car pull harder. then i went with trifecta and was boosting 25psi and it held all of it. car pulled very strong. whoever ends up with that car will have fun.
the clutch is a big deal, but all of those cars have a lot less torque and power than us, and weigh more, it just doesnt make sense...

here is me a few months ago getting beat by an accord v6 NA that dyno 280whp & 240wtq.

j32 accord vs turbo cobalt - YouTube

Last edited by AARON-SS-TC; 05-14-2012 at 10:31 AM.
Old 05-10-2012, 04:09 PM
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You blew it on the launch. Our cars are killer on roll-racing, but from a dead-stop, you have to be cmiller to get anything done.
Old 05-10-2012, 04:21 PM
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Stock.
Old 05-10-2012, 04:57 PM
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i got a 2.1 60ft on that run..lol
i was only trapping 107-8 though, so something was wrong, even then with my car
Old 05-10-2012, 05:49 PM
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Oh, I couldn't see your trap speed. Yeah, something was wrong. Was that when your clutch started slipping?
Old 05-10-2012, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SSlobalt
Oh, I couldn't see your trap speed. Yeah, something was wrong. Was that when your clutch started slipping?
yeah, that night was when my clutch went. i ran a 13.2 @ 108mph right before that race then a 13.7 after the race because the car was not catching gear at all. now i believe i have a bad boost leak too, which will be fixed along with my clutch after this weekend, then hopefully i will be in the mid to high 12's like i should be...
Old 05-10-2012, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SSlobalt
You blew it on the launch. Our cars are killer on roll-racing, but from a dead-stop, you have to be cmiller to get anything done.
^^^ This
Old 05-10-2012, 06:44 PM
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launching at 2500 and feathering the clutch slightly works perfect..cmiller is awesome, but i have been to the track in all of my cars in the past and have done very well...it does look like in the video i had a slight bog down from the jump though....
Anyways, i got this thread way off track, so lets get back to it
Old 05-14-2012, 10:27 AM
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2.0 T/C - K04 Power!!
1. 09whteSSpssssh 366.5whp, 445wtq Verified DYNOmite CP/CD/DP/E/I/IC/E47/HPT Only Graph 1 Graph 2
2. Frogstofall, 362whp, 376wtq, Verified Dynojet, I/DP/T/GM1/IC/CP/E47, Graph
3. raver0789 359whp, 408wtq Dynojet I/CP/IC/DP/CB/E47 Graph
4. FF_ace 351whp, 393wtq Verified Dynojet CAI/CP/IC/DP/CD/E/WI/E85/T Graph
5. Cavalierssr 350whp, 439wtq Verfied Dynojet I/DP/CD/CP/MD/T/E85 Graph
6. mongorat427, 349whp, 363wyq, Verified Dynojet, I/E/CP/IC/T, Graph
7. BYT*SS*TURBO 347whp, 414wtq Verified Dynojet, DP/CD/CP/I/T/IC Graph
8. 2010SS 346whp, 426wtq Verified Dynojet DP/IC/I/CP/E85/BYT Tune Graph
9. JBThrasher22, 346whp, 399wtq Verified Dynocom, GM1S, I, DP, T, Graph
10. 09BlueBaltSS 344whp, 384wtq Verified Dynocom T/I/DP/CD Graph
11. 09whteSSpssssh 343whp/423wtq Verified DYNOmite I/DP/CD/CP/IC/T/WI Graph1Graph212. D-mac, 337whp, 386wtq Verified Dynojet I,DP,T,WI,GM,CD,IC,CP Graph
13. oowah, 334whp, 354wtq, Verified Dynojet, I/DP/CP,T, Graph
14. Projekt 331whp,393wtq Verified Dynojet I/CD/DP/T Graph
15. BlueBetaFish11, 330whp, 389wtq, Verified Dynojet, (289whp, 326wtq Mustang), I/E/IC/CP/T Graph1 Graph2
16. Gremlin85, 328whp, 421wtq, Verified Dynojet, I/DP/E/IC/CP/T, Graph
17. BYT*SS*TURBO 327whp/386wtq DP/CD/CP/I/T Graph
18. BoostedYards86, 327whp, 384wtq, Verified Dynojet, I/CP/IC/DP/GM1, Graph
19. beast10007 326whp, 368wtq Mustang Dyno, GMS1/CP/IC/I/E85 Graph
20. RKRamos, 325whp, 402wtq, Verified Dynojet, I/DP/E/HPT/CD/IC/CP Graph
21. mongorat427 322whp, 374wtq Verified I/E/CP/IC/T Graph
22. boosted4dr 321whp, 335wtq Verified WinDyn, GMS1, IC, DP, CP, AM GRAPH
23. KnightSS/TC 317whp, 349wtq Verified Dynojet I/CP/IC/DP/CD/T Graph
24. Cavalierssr 316whp, 389wtq Verfied Dynojet I/DP/CD/CP/MD/T Graph
25. ecotecturbo, 316whp, 366wtq, Verified Dynojet, T,I,CD,DP,E,IC, Graph
26. ch1ck3n 314whp, 388wtq Dynojet dyno CD/F/T/E-85 Graph1Graph2
27. ChillenGillon, 314whp, 373wtq Verified Dynojet, I/E/DP/GMH/CP/CD/T Graph
28. dayhoff35, 312whp, 331wtq, Verified Dynojet, I/DP/CP/T Graph
29. AcesNEights 311whp, 390wtq Verified CD/DP/E/T Graph
30. Vahdyx 310whp, 377wtq Superflow Dyno I/CP/DP/CB Graph
31. Baron7700 310whp, 361wtq Verified Dynojet I/DP/CD/GMS1/T HP Graph TQ Graph
32. ronn 308whp/360wtq Verified Dynapack T Graph
33. 1LSJ2NV 308whp, 324wtq Dynojet DP,CAI,IC,tune,CP,Meth Graph
34. Hunter19707 307whp, 345wtq Dynojet Dyno, I/CP/DP/IC Graph
35. Batboy 301whp, 345wtq Dynojet I, DP, CP, IC, Tune Graph
36. 1SLOLT1 300whp, 335wtq Verified GMS1/CD/DP Graph
37. CudaJoe 298whp, 327wtq Verified Dynojet T, I, CP, IC, BPV, DP Graph
38. Stephenishere, 292whp, 379wtq, Verified Dynojet, I,T,IC,CP,MD,24psi, Graph, Chart
39. Cubaniche 291whp I, DP, CP, Tuned Graph
40. Black08SSTC 289whp 314wtq Verified Mustang Dyno T, I, CP Graph
41. MTE, 283whp, 267wtq, Verified Mustang Dyno, I/CP/DP/E/T Graph
42. 80VetteL82 277whp, 302wtq Dynojet, GMS1/I Graph
43. overboostedss 269whp, 271wtq Mustang Dyno I/DP/CB/CP/IC/Stock Tune Graph
44. tjsz 254whp,306wtq AB/T Graph
45. lnfftw, 249whp, 262wtq Verified Dynojet, F, E Graph
46. 09SS 239whp, 237wtq Verified Dynojet MD, F Graph
47. MikeyG 239whp, 233wtq Verified Dynojet, Graph

looks like a lot more could respond on here...lol
What kind of tune did BYT have? Holy crap those are awesome numbers WITHOUT e85
Old 05-16-2012, 11:16 PM
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so with torque management completely off, is there a higher risk of messing up the tranny or anything?

i wanna be able to take the management off, raise the limiter slightly to 6500 in 1st and 2nd, and have stock boost in first, then 100% in 2-5th gears. hopefully i can get my timing raised to 15 or 16* for the midrange power as well.
Old 05-16-2012, 11:27 PM
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You can have a good whp number but it's not gonna be reliable for a dd mainly due to a high rate of timing. And also dynos are just number makers .. Some can be as much as 10+% off and I've seen as much as 20-% off. Dyno dynamatics .. So someone's number here will be different there.
Old 05-16-2012, 11:39 PM
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so just keeping my timing at 14* is safe and i can do everything else that i wanna do?
sorry, can you be more detailed on how aggressive i can be with being relible too?
i thought if there was no knock under full throttle, then everything was okay

Last edited by AARON-SS-TC; 05-16-2012 at 11:55 PM.
Old 05-17-2012, 12:54 AM
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Lol just because a car shows no kr doesnt mean its safe. If i give someone 28lbs and 20* on 93 and he doesnt get kr in the logs. What happens when he goes to another town and the elevation changes 200 ft and temps by 5* and gas is terrible? Detonation and etc. So just because a car can take a certain amount of timing, doenst mean its reliable. Reliability is somthing that means at all times. So for a dd car its best to keep boost at a slow ram and a steady 24lbs or so depending on mods. Timing wise, it all depends on fuel. But for 93 15-16 is easily attainable if the car takes it and that is within reaso for a dd. Anything above that is kinda iffy if a dd. And the main reason is detonation. WOT afr (lambda), most tuners will tune it to around .88-.90 lambda because this is where the most power is made !! But for a dd car its harder on the internals if you rape it quite often or get into boost often. ( oVER TIME THE RINGLANDS WILL CRANCK AND GET HEAT SPOTS) Do the the tremendous egts caused from the lack of wot richer afr. So for a dd car i recommend .84-.82 dependong on where you live. Higher elevations i recommend .82-.80 just because the shitty air quality.

You can get more attainable power with faster boost ramo but this is less safe on the engine, trany and clutch. Mainly because the turbo spools so quick, which causes a lot of stress and what gives you the high tq readings. (usually) When you have a slower ramp youll loose your peak power meaning the spike, but in returrn youlll be able to run a little more timing midrange and also have a more linear power.

But the key point to a cars life is the driver. You can have a tune so conservative and is spot on but have a ******* owner that romps on it 24/7 and it will blow. Because the frictional componets geeting so hot from its friction spots. ( rings, ringlands depnding on clearances, and etc)

hope this helps!
Old 05-17-2012, 08:28 AM
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thank you very much, and it does help. I take very good care of my car and drive like a grandma most of the time, but i wanna have all the available power there when i have the occassional run in or go to the track.
I understand the boost ramp but(is that the torque management people talk of as well though?)
i live in florida and would never leave the state in my car, but i understand the conditions factor.
Old 05-17-2012, 08:45 AM
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I has BYT tune. its soooooo slow











compared to a Lamborghini Aventador
Old 05-17-2012, 09:37 AM
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lol^^^
Old 05-17-2012, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
Lol just because a car shows no kr doesnt mean its safe. If i give someone 28lbs and 20* on 93 and he doesnt get kr in the logs. What happens when he goes to another town and the elevation changes 200 ft and temps by 5* and gas is terrible? Detonation and etc. So just because a car can take a certain amount of timing, doenst mean its reliable. Reliability is somthing that means at all times. So for a dd car its best to keep boost at a slow ram and a steady 24lbs or so depending on mods. Timing wise, it all depends on fuel. But for 93 15-16 is easily attainable if the car takes it and that is within reaso for a dd. Anything above that is kinda iffy if a dd. And the main reason is detonation. WOT afr (lambda), most tuners will tune it to around .88-.90 lambda because this is where the most power is made !! But for a dd car its harder on the internals if you rape it quite often or get into boost often. ( oVER TIME THE RINGLANDS WILL CRANCK AND GET HEAT SPOTS) Do the the tremendous egts caused from the lack of wot richer afr. So for a dd car i recommend .84-.82 dependong on where you live. Higher elevations i recommend .82-.80 just because the shitty air quality.

You can get more attainable power with faster boost ramo but this is less safe on the engine, trany and clutch. Mainly because the turbo spools so quick, which causes a lot of stress and what gives you the high tq readings. (usually) When you have a slower ramp youll loose your peak power meaning the spike, but in returrn youlll be able to run a little more timing midrange and also have a more linear power.

But the key point to a cars life is the driver. You can have a tune so conservative and is spot on but have a ******* owner that romps on it 24/7 and it will blow. Because the frictional componets geeting so hot from its friction spots. ( rings, ringlands depnding on clearances, and etc)

hope this helps!
I would like to highlight this area. So much truth it hurts
Old 05-17-2012, 11:20 AM
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lol^^^

so basically, since im responsible, i can get a 50psi tune and 40* of timing with no torque managemnt and 100% boost in all gears???....hahahaha
Old 05-17-2012, 11:29 AM
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^^ I too would like to know of experiences with zero torque management...

I'll be getting a tune ~ probably be shooting for a 24psi tune...
I have yet to read of any hard evidence showing that with our stock turbo that the chargepipes or airbox are a restriction ~ so I'll be leaving those parts for sure.
(also worth noting is that there is no E47/E85 gas around here, so it'll be a regular gas tune.)

I'll be looking at changing my valve springs later this summer, and might look into a better intercooler... but neither of those changes are ones that people will see ~ so for al intensive purposes the car will still look stock...
Old 05-17-2012, 12:22 PM
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yeah, info on the torque managemnt is key. i got some info on the boost ramp situation from james, which was good,but does that include the torque management as well?
Old 05-17-2012, 01:12 PM
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this thread is great, I have an 07 base model POS. one day will have a SS/TC sedan. Was already for one this year but got a house instead. Hopefully in the next 2 years Ill be able to get one if there are any left! and ill know alot about them by then!


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